The Great Quest for Headlights

[caliboy15]

https://www.thelightingfirm.net/product/11-14-ford-fiesta-stage-ii-bixenon-led-headlights/

I think there is

 

[DirtyBlueshirt]

I stand corrected. But I have three issues:

They advertise "2011-2014" fitment when we all know 2011-2013 and 2014-up headlights are completely different and incompatible. This shows their ignorance of the product line.

They claim they're "100% Legal". They're not. They don't have the amber reflector on the side. That's not legal.

Also, they're nearly twice the price of the OEM projector units and of an unknown quality for that price.

 

[Perfblue15]

Wow those lol cool but definitely not an option for me. I'll save up for oem euro lights

 

[dyn085]

My buddy did some prototyping for TLF with his Fusion and they are definitely high-quality lights. The reflector is still there, though it's covered with a mesh to make it less visible during the day-you can see it in the FiST pics if you zoom in on them. They're not cheap but they definitely have a market.

 

[D1JL]

At this time there are none that are DOT approved and therefore none that are legal.

Not that I care, I just wanted to point that out.





Dave

 

[DirtyBlueshirt]

My buddy did some prototyping for TLF with his Fusion and they are definitely high-quality lights. The reflector is still there, though it's covered with a mesh to make it less visible during the day-you can see it in the FiST pics if you zoom in on them. They're not cheap but they definitely have a market.

The least they can do is remove mention of compatibility for 11-13 models. That's a lot of money to spend on bad information.

 

[Perfblue15]

After doing a bit of research I may be doing a DIY Retrofit in the future. It doesn't look that hard. Just time consuming. And I could get black housing projectors that way

 

[dyn085]

The least they can do is remove mention of compatibility for 11-13 models. That's a lot of money to spend on bad information.

Contact them and let them know? Idc, I'm not a 'lighting' kinda guy.

After doing a bit of research I may be doing a DIY Retrofit in the future. It doesn't look that hard. Just time consuming. And I could get black housing projectors that way

If you haven't done a retrofit on any of the late-model Ford's you'll want to do some research-I've seen a lot of totally screwed up headlights from people that got impatient with the sealant because they thought it was simple like the older models. Whatever perma-seal that Ford uses is apparently some pretty tough stuff.

 

[Perfblue15]

Contact them and let them know? Idc, I'm not a 'lighting' kinda guy.

If you haven't done a retrofit on any of the late-model Ford's you'll want to do some research-I've seen a lot of totally screwed up headlights from people that got impatient with the sealant because they thought it was simple like the older models. Whatever perma-seal that Ford uses is apparently some pretty tough stuff.

I did a retro fit on my 98 mustang GT way back when. I will research the sealant more. Worst case, I buy euro lights.

 

[dyn085]

I did a retro fit on my 98 mustang GT way back when. I will research the sealant more. Worst case, I buy euro lights.

It's not impossible, I've just heard horror stories of people having to bake their headlights for four+ hours (repeatedly pulling them out and cutting) apiece. Some just took a Dremel to the back of the housing and cut the whole damn thing right behind the lens...and then slathered it back together with black RTV when they were done. But on the flip-side I've also seen really good work done by patient guys that knew what they were doing and getting into.

 

[CanadianGuy]

[MENTION=2054]Perfblue15[/MENTION] I believe [MENTION=411]westcoaST[/MENTION] converted his headlights.

 

[westcoaST]

The important thing when retrofitting your headlights, if your car is a daily driver, is to have a backup pair of headlights. My retrofitter wanted $580.00 for a basic system. I wanted special housings, special paint (performance blue in ceramic paint) and an LED strip, so mine cost about $870.00. My guy (sickhids.com) is so covered up that it typically takes 6 - 9 months for return. Check the other retrofitters out. There is definitely a trick to opening these headlights, and baking no longer works (since 2011, if not earlier). Check out my build log for the work done to my headlights.

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/2353-WestcoaST-Performance-blue-build/page8

I'm really pleased with the quality of Bryan's work, even if he takes forever.

 

[TheStig]

Well now they are saying their shipment of LED kits was delayed further so they wont even be receiving them until late this week. Looks like maybe next week ill see them.

 

[Perfblue15]

The important thing when retrofitting your headlights, if your car is a daily driver, is to have a backup pair of headlights. My retrofitter wanted $580.00 for a basic system. I wanted special housings, special paint (performance blue in ceramic paint) and an LED strip, so mine cost about $870.00. My guy (sickhids.com) is so covered up that it typically takes 6 - 9 months for return. Check the other retrofitters out. There is definitely a trick to opening these headlights, and baking no longer works (since 2011, if not earlier). Check out my build log for the work done to my headlights.

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/2353-WestcoaST-Performance-blue-build/page8

I'm really pleased with the quality of Bryan's work, even if he takes forever.

I really want something similar to your lights just with black inside instead of blue. I will send him an email and look into getting a second set of stock headlights

 

[Chris G]

Well now they are saying their shipment of LED kits was delayed further so they wont even be receiving them until late this week. Looks like maybe next week ill see them.

Hey at least they contacted you. I haven't heard anything.

 

[TheStig]

Hey at least they contacted you. I haven't heard anything.

I emailed them, not the other way around lol

 

[Chris G]

Nothing drives me more nuts than when something says it is in stock on a website and then it take 2+ weeks to ship. [emoji16]

 

[TheStig]

Nothing drives me more nuts than when something says it is in stock on a website and then it take 2+ weeks to ship. [emoji16]

Possibly more, for some reason my email correspondence has been from a KB Car Stuff, which must own Xenon Depot i assume. Both entities are in Canada, since i doubt they drop ship in the states, it likely has to come from Ontario. Meaning possibly tack on another week to compensate for shipping time as well.

 

[TheStig]

Nothing drives me more nuts than when something says it is in stock on a website and then it take 2+ weeks to ship. [emoji16]

Emailed them again yesterday, today their reply is that they still have NOT received their shipment from the manufacturer. Likely they get them today or Monday at the latest. Once they do they will ship out FedEx 2-Day air.

Glorious, more waiting lol

 

[blurred]

Anyone know if you need to aim the Luxeons before installing them or at they pretty decent out of the box?

No aiming is necessary.

There is no aiming on the fogs buti know the diode dynamics you must install the lamps so that the logo/text on the lamp is readable (correct orientation). The text denotes bottom.

Mine were too low, and yes, there is an aiming screw for vertical adjustment on the back, you can reach this through the fender liner after they are installed.

It is tricky to aim these because of the triple step to the output. The way they are designed there is a decently strong centre section along with a narrower, less intense upper and lower band of light. You will want to aim the centre part of the beam to go straight out from the car with just a very slight downward angle. Do not try to use the top of the cutoff for aiming or youwill just create a lot of foreground light and not send any down the road and to the sides. If you are having trouble with aiming I would suggest covering the sections above and below the "magnifying" centre portion of the lamp and just use that cutoff to create a very slight downward angle, or leave it straight ahead.