sync reset caused... problems.

[wroughtirony]

So I know the answer is probably "dealership" but here's my hail Mary.

2016 FiST

One day a few weeks ago, my USB ports stopped working. Both of them at the same time. Tried multiple cords and devices, nothing would connect or charge. My friend did a hard reset on Sync, USB started working again. But my key fobs stopped working immediately. Well, sort of.

I can start and drive the car just fine, but cannot lock the doors at all with either the button on the door handle or the fob. About 30% of the time I open the door, the car alarm goes off until I start the car. Initially, I could open the hatch with the fob in proximity, but now I can't. And the lock button on the dash now does not work. No light, no effect. I currently cannot lock the car or open the hatch at all.

I tried holding down both the lock and unlock buttons for at least 20 seconds on the fob while outside the car. This makes the lights flash but has no other effect.

Is there anything else I should try before I turn my car over to Ford for god knows how long, rent a shitbox for work, and start eating ramen for every meal in preparation for a huge bill? I know my particular model has the worst possible version of Sync, and the reset definitely initiated the issue.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Capri to ST]

So I know the answer is probably "dealership" but here's my hail Mary.

2016 FiST

One day a few weeks ago, my USB ports stopped working. Both of them at the same time. Tried multiple cords and devices, nothing would connect or charge. My friend did a hard reset on Sync, USB started working again. But my key fobs stopped working immediately. Well, sort of.

I can start and drive the car just fine, but cannot lock the doors at all with either the button on the door handle or the fob. About 30% of the time I open the door, the car alarm goes off until I start the car. Initially, I could open the hatch with the fob in proximity, but now I can't. And the lock button on the dash now does not work. No light, no effect. I currently cannot lock the car or open the hatch at all.

I tried holding down both the lock and unlock buttons for at least 20 seconds on the fob while outside the car. This makes the lights flash but has no other effect.

Is there anything else I should try before I turn my car over to Ford for god knows how long, rent a shitbox for work, and start eating ramen for every meal in preparation for a huge bill? I know my particular model has the worst possible version of Sync, and the reset definitely initiated the issue.

Thanks for your help!

How old is your battery? All sorts of weird things can happen with this car when your battery is weak, and many of them don't seem like they would be related to it.
If your battery is close to 4 years older or older, I would replace it if I were you no matter how it tests out. That way you can eliminate that possible cause, and if it turns out to be something else, you were close to needing a new battery anyway.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^What he said, as well as replacing your key fob lithiums with high grade new button cells.

So glad that I do not need/use the USB ports, or even need to have my phone 'Synced' to the car's system at all.

It's bad enough that the head unit does not eject the 'dinosaur era' CDs I use for a music source every third eject button hit or so, even after a hard reset (a battery disconnect is the only thing which will then allow me to eject said discs).

 

[wroughtirony]

Battery was replaced less than a year ago. Should still be under warranty. I'll head over to have it tested on Monday.

 

[wroughtirony]

my local shop diagnosed it as almost definitely a bad body control module. USB going out followed by general electronic issues are apparently common in Fords with bad BCMs. Apparently there is a service bulletin about it and there is a suggested software fix to try but the service writer was like "yeah..... that never works. We can replace the part but we can't reprogram it. And if we replace it and you take it to the dealership for reprogramming they will probably give you shit, so just take it to the dealership, and make sure to go to X dealership and absolutely not the one three blocks from your house."

They had my car all day and I know they worked on it for way more than an hour.

They charged me $68.

They could have replaced the module and made way more money and just left me to deal with the dealership. It wouldn't have even been that unethical.

They also have two shop dogs.

They're getting Christmas cookies. I'm thinking snickerdoodles.

But woof, I looked up the cost for the module. I love my car, but I wish it would stop needing $1k+ repairs every other month. I take comfort knowing that none of it has been my fault, but still...

 

[Intuit]

Aftermarket parts connected to the BCM can cause malfunctions... weird and seemingly unrelated ones...
https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/delayed-wipers-turn-signal-flash-wiper-stop-resolved.29473/

.

 

[wroughtirony]

Aftermarket parts connected to the BCM can cause malfunctions... weird and seemingly unrelated ones...
https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/delayed-wipers-turn-signal-flash-wiper-stop-resolved.29473/

.

When I dropped off the car after hours, under "services needed" I just wrote "Car is haunted."

(I knew the service writer already had a detailed account of what was wrong because I had talked to her the day before.)

 

[Intuit]

Just saying, before you agree to expensive computer replacements, disconnect any and all aftermarket changes. Also make sure that there are no compromised ground connections between the vehicle, engine and battery.

"Voltage drop testing" can be used to identify the presence of bad grounding. A loss of 6% or greater is considered excessive. All circuits must be loaded to their potential in order for the test to be effective. (turn on everything and raise engine RPM) Since resistance increases with heat, it also helps that the vehicle be warm/hot.

Re Battery, particularly in the motorcycle world, bad NEW batteries are common because they aren't properly rotated/maintained while sitting on the shelf. This was also a problem for the sealed batteries for the Fiesta. (vented aka leaky lead-acid, not really)

.

 

[wroughtirony]

update:

It was not the BCM.

When my friend was checking the fuses, he put one back in the wrong slot. This explains why the locking problems started right after the Sync reset, because he did the reset right after checking the fuses.

I'm not mad, it was an honest mistake that anyone could have made. I am a bit disappointed that my shop didn't catch it and referred me to a dealership an hour away, so I had to not only pay the $200 dealership diagnostic fee but also get a rental car and spend 4 hours on the road during a workday when I didn't have that time to spare.

My shop is still getting cookies, dog treats and assorted 10mm sockets for Christmas, though.