Subwoofer planning

[bradktn]

First off, I hope everyone has a safe holiday. To all who have served, thank you. OK, I’m starting to plan my audio upgrades, and I think I’m going to start with an underseat sub. I have a couple of questions, and forgive my almost total ignorance. For power, is there any reason not to tap into the 12 volt plug in the console? Or even simpler, just use a 12 volt plug for power? I read in the owner's manual that running power near the center console can interfere with the car's ESC. Is this anything to worry about? How important is it to use low-pass filters for the door speakers? If so, what frequency cut-off? Thanks.

 

[erdna14]

First off, I hope everyone has a safe holiday. To all who have served, thank you. OK, I’m starting to plan my audio upgrades, and I think I’m going to start with an underseat sub. I have a couple of questions, and forgive my almost total ignorance. For power, is there any reason not to tap into the 12 volt plug in the console? Or even simpler, just use a 12 volt plug for power? I read in the owner's manual that running power near the center console can interfere with the car's ESC. Is this anything to worry about? How important is it to use low-pass filters for the door speakers? If so, what frequency cut-off? Thanks.

It would be best to run power from the battery, tap into the passenger side B pillar for the speaker signal, and use an add-a-fuse for the remote wire (I used the moonroof location).

I’ve never heard of a power wire disrupting the ESC, but I’m going to assume you’re placing the sub under the driver’s seat so running the power wire down the drivers side and straight into the amp wouldn’t put it close to the center console at all.

The factory DSP has a speaker saving cut off, so unless you’re going to get a 5 channel amp and drive all the factory speakers, I don’t think low pass filters would be necessary.

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/378-Fiesta-ST-subwoofer-wiring-project

This thread should help immensely.


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[ProDigit]

I'm in the same league as you.
My Subwoofer will arrive soon (80W RMS 300W peak Rockville RW8CA).
This one can't be safely ran from the cigarette lighter plug.
But Kenwood has a 75W speaker (rectangular) that some users have reported works from the 12V plug.
As long as the fuse is 15A, it probably will run fine (as long as you're not blasting it full power).
However, just above the clutch pedal is a rubber seal, where you can plug a power lead through; which will end up on the engine side, at the battery.
It's really not hard to install, and hide the power wire in the plastic door styles.

A lot of people don't run any LPF on their door speakers.
They just run them full range, and dial down the bass a little (to all the way) on their stock radios, and run just the mids and highs on their stereo system.
The stock door speakers should roll off from about 160Hz, to -3dB around 80Hz, purely guesswork from memory, so don't quote me on the numbers, but it should be around that range, and 'die out totally' around 40Hz.

The Hi pass filter on the door tweeters isn't adjusted correctly, causing the tweeters to sound too sharp in the 1-3kHz region, overlapping in those frequencies with the door speakers.
I already have the capacitors to solder in series with the tweeters, however, I'm having a few projects waiting (rims, subwoofer, coating, and car seat covers), before I can start with the door tweeters.
The easiest way is to upgrade/correct the tweeters.
And if it doesn't work well, you can upgrade the drivers as well.

Some users have mentioned their ratings are total crap at (was it 25W?), however, that's really all the car stereo is going to put out.
If you want the door drivers to be louder,
These ones are the loudest I've found that should fit:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PPS4-6-6-5-Inch-Loudspeaker/dp/B0076SIJP2/

A single one is more expensive than your off-brand 4 speaker setup, but supposedly super loud compared to others; and roll off where a regular under seat subwoofer starts (they roll off at 50Hz, however users said they run well to about 100-125Hz; while a Rockville RW sub starts from 150Hz down to 50Hz. So they should be a great pair!

I say 'should', because I've only compared the numbers, and will be doing the upgrades as parts arrive.
If I find by adding a sub, and adjusting the tweeters, that the sound is pretty balance, I won't swap out the door speakers.
If not, I might swap em out.
Some people who haven't used the best speakers, have said that the aftermarket ones aren't that much louder compared to the stockers.