Stock radiator is just awful.

[Dpro]

I mentioned that price because that was the budget. I didn't intend for people to think that


I'm sorry. The cost I quoted was "all in" for what I planned to do. I didn't preface it well.
I went back and dug into the numbers. I actually write stuff down.
Some prices have come down since 2016. But my statement is based on the numbers and what I have learned from six prior car preparations. Three of them full caged, non street driven.
I kept the streetable intentions front and center when I planned my FiST.
I kept things very conservative. Stock turbo and exhaust system. I actually have a lot of the parts. I upgraded the radiator after I installed the hood vents on a service replacement hood panel. My plan covered eight specific areas. Noticably absent from the list is any splitter or undertray. No chassis braces because 15 inch wheels and a Pierce 6point brace is very unfriendly on the street. No harness bar or cage. No coil overs or double adjustable dampers. No aftermarket anti-sway bar. I did remove the rear seat and belts.
Some rebates were applied to the costs.
Power upgrades- $ 2,260 sbtl
Cobb stage 2 $ 1,800
Catted downpipe $ 500
Cooling upgrades- $ 1,170 sbtl
Radiator $ 500
Oil cooler kit $245
Hood vents $ 275
Silicone hose kit $ 160
Transaxle upgrades- $ 2,475 sbtl
Quaife differential $1500
Misc diff' install bits $210
Short throw shifter $225
Spec, stage 3 clutch kit $ 540
Issue mitigation-$ 265 sbtl
Oil catch can $200
Spare cooling fan relay $20
2, fire extinguishers $45
Electrical-$230 sbtl
Water temp and oil pressure gauges $60
Battery relocation kit $110
Shut off switch $ 60
Suspension upgrades- $1,143
Koni Sport damper and spring kit $950
Powergrid adjustable end links $165
Energy Suspension poly ASB frame bushings $28
Brake upgrades- $ 703 sbtl
Performance pads and rotors (STD size) $ 335
Stainless steel brake hose kit $ 118
Front brake cooling duct kit $250
Wheels and tires- $2,900 sbtl
8, 200 treadwear rated tires one set shaved. $ 1,100
8, lightweight wheels 15/16 inch diameters $ 1,800

Component cost $ 11,127
Labor $ slave

ya I see a lot of inflated prices in that list you have suspension upgrades $1143 listed separately from Koni sports and springs. That is completely overstated first off Koni sports are $550-600 springs are as cheap as $140 for eibachs. thats $700_$750 you also do not need $1143 more in suspension for the car. Then you have a Cobb stage 2 $1800 thats ridiculous An AP from Cobb that comes with a stage 2 tune is $550 your quaife is listed at $1500 and they cost $950. You have trans upgrades aka clutch or diff listed for $2400 for labor thats more like $1600 max. everything you have listed is highly exaggerated I am not sure why but you could do a lot of that for less than 11k so ya I cry foul on your ability to build a car financially.
It does not represent what the average guy can do if he knows what he is doing build wise.

Sorry if this comes off harsh but when you posted those prices you left yourself wide open to accounting of your pricing.

 

[DoomsdayMelody]

ya I see a lot of inflated prices in that list you have suspension upgrades $1143 listed separately from Koni sports and springs. That is completely overstated first off Koni sports are $550-600 springs are as cheap as $140 for eibachs. thats $700_$750 you also do not need $1143 more in suspension for the car. Then you have a Cobb stage 2 $1800 thats ridiculous An AP from Cobb that comes with a stage 2 tune is $550 your quaife is listed at $1500 and they cost $950. You have trans upgrades aka clutch or diff listed for $2400 for labor thats more like $1600 max. everything you have listed is highly exaggerated I am not sure why but you could do a lot of that for less than 11k so ya I cry foul on your ability to build a car financially.
It does not represent what the average guy can do if he knows what he is doing build wise.

Sorry if this comes off harsh but when you posted those prices you left yourself wide open to accounting of your pricing.

Not to mention but says stock turbo, then listed a some crazy numbers:

‘Power upgrades’ $2260

catted downpipe for $500

Going state 2 (no E30 or custom tuning) you technically don’t have to get anything outside of a Cobb AP. The only recommended mod that will actually make a difference is the intercooler at stage 2 and the downpipe is worthless unless you’ve done a turbo swap.

So, going stage 2 should cost:

Cobb AP3: $500ish (cheaper used)
Whoosh V1 intercooler: $300 (optional)

That’s $800 on the high side when he’s assuming he’ll spend nearly 3x as much and each of those can be handled by an average DIYer on a single day, so labor costs shouldn’t inflate anything.


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[gtx3076]

Not to mention but says stock turbo, then listed a some crazy numbers:

‘Power upgrades’ $2260

catted downpipe for $500

Going state 2 (no E30 or custom tuning) you technically don’t have to get anything outside of a Cobb AP. The only recommended mod that will actually make a difference is the intercooler at stage 2 and the downpipe is worthless unless you’ve done a turbo swap.

So, going stage 2 should cost:

Cobb AP3: $500ish (cheaper used)
Whoosh V1 intercooler: $300 (optional)

That’s $800 on the high side when he’s assuming he’ll spend nearly 3x as much and each of those can be handled by an average DIYer on a single day, so labor costs shouldn’t inflate anything.


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Hell, I spent what, $500 on a AP, another $150 for a custom 93/E30 tune and I've been very happy with the performance, best bang for the buck. I know there's more I could squeeze out for maximum performance, but meh, 280wtq was plenty fun in traffic this morning.

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[powermatt]

I think the essentials boil down to:

Cobb AP
Intercooler
Rear motor mount
Radiator (for hot climate insurance)

That's less than $2k in parts, maybe another $500 in labor, if you don't install anything yourself. Those four things, and you've got a reliable and fun daily driver with more than enough power for your commute.

Oh, and possibly another $500 in tires, if you don't already have a good set on the car.

 

[GreenthumbTim]

I think the essentials boil down to:

Cobb AP
Intercooler
Rear motor mount
Radiator (for hot climate insurance)

That's less than $2k in parts, maybe another $500 in labor, if you don't install anything yourself. Those four things, and you've got a reliable and fun daily driver with more than enough power for your commute.

Oh, and possibly another $500 in tires, if you don't already have a good set on the car.

i wish i would've saved my money and just did those 4 tbh. good start for sure maybe gfb dv+ as a 5th and colder spark plugs as a 6th

 

[Scotman2]

ya I see a lot of inflated prices in that list you have suspension upgrades $1143 listed separately from Koni sports and springs. That is completely overstated first off Koni sports are $550-600 springs are as cheap as $140 for eibachs. thats $700_$750 you also do not need $1143 more in suspension for the car. Then you have a Cobb stage 2 $1800 thats ridiculous An AP from Cobb that comes with a stage 2 tune is $550 your quaife is listed at $1500 and they cost $950. You have trans upgrades aka clutch or diff listed for $2400 for labor thats more like $1600 max. everything you have listed is highly exaggerated I am not sure why but you could do a lot of that for less than 11k so ya I cry foul on your ability to build a car financially.
It does not represent what the average guy can do if he knows what he is doing build wise.

Sorry if this comes off harsh but when you posted those prices you left yourself wide open to accounting of your pricing.

It was late 2015 -2016 pricing. Some prices had shipping. Some had a rebate (tires). the subtotal of each area is listed. It's not that money plus the individual parts. It's All the components of that area.
Cooling system upgrades were a tick over $1,100 (I did break out the costs of each area I changed) but the overall cost was figured to be around 11 grand. It's the number I got. Just being transparent.

 

[Dpro]

It was late 2015 -2016 pricing. Some prices had shipping. Some had a rebate (tires). The cooling system upgrades were a tick over $1,100 (I did break out the costs of each area I changed) but the overall cost was figured to be around 11 grand. It's the number I got. Just being transparent.

It still does not change my impression that you overestimated the amount of mods needed and or pricing as well. I pointed out some of what I feel was glaringly obvious. I get you think it was more expensive than it really was. I had friends who did mods in those days there costs were not as high as you claim and they even did larger turbos.
So all in all there is nothing more to say except we can agree to disagree.

P.S. I have done a fair amount of mods on my car and my prices are not even near what estimate and I am about to go bigger turbo and will still be thousands of dollars under your estimate that did not even have a turbo upgrade.

 

[Phishy]

Hit 213 on my 5 mile stop and go commute home tonight. I feel crazy for doing this before an IC upgrade but I think that's the way its going to go. I can drive around heat soak a lot easier than this thing running warm or hot waaay too much for my liking.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^I'm actually holding off on installing the CP-E intercooler (which I've had, bought new on discount, sitting in the basement for about 3 years now!) until I buy a radiator, so that I can install them in one shot, in order to not have to remove and re-install the bumper cover many multiple times, like so many on here do on a weekly basis. LOL

(What they can do in '15 minutes' I KNOW will take me 5+ hours, just for the bumper r&r alone, and even then I'm sure it will not go back on without gaps/problems, etc. )

 

[Dpro]

^^^I'm actually holding off on installing the CP-E intercooler (which I've had, bought new on discount, sitting in the basement for about 3 years now!) until I buy a radiator, so that I can install them in one shot, in order to not have to remove and re-install the bumper cover many multiple times, like so many on here do on a weekly basis. LOL

(What they can do in '15 minutes' I KNOW will take me 5+ hours, just for the bumper r&r alone, and even then I'm sure it will not go back on without gaps/problems, etc. )

No actually the bumper cover is not hard., nor is actually taking off the whole damn thing.

 

[DoomsdayMelody]

No actually the bumper cover is not hard., nor is actually taking off the whole damn thing.

Yeah took me about an hour including the time it took me to put my front axle in the air with the spare jack.

Then I opened my depo racing intercooler to discover that the end tank was badly bent. Got a refund but haven’t gotten around to buying an IC again.


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[DAW]

^^^I'm actually holding off on installing the CP-E intercooler (which I've had, bought new on discount, sitting in the basement for about 3 years now!) until I buy a radiator, so that I can install them in one shot, in order to not have to remove and re-install the bumper cover many multiple times, like so many on here do on a weekly basis. LOL

(What they can do in '15 minutes' I KNOW will take me 5+ hours, just for the bumper r&r alone, and even then I'm sure it will not go back on without gaps/problems, etc. )

You don’t need to take the bumper off for the radiator though.

 

[Dpro]

You don’t need to take the bumper off for the radiator though.

True but he is planning on doing radiator and intercooler at the same time. If you do that it makes sense just to take the whole bumper off as you are halfway there just pulling the cover to put in the intercooler and taking the stock one out. At which point its literally 4 more bolts and the whole front comes off and putting in the radiator is a total breeze. If one is not doing both then ya , One can put the radiator in from below without removing the bumper cover.

 

[M-Sport fan]

You don’t need to take the bumper off for the radiator though.

Definitely not for the Mountune/CSR, but I'm not too sure about the Pro Alloy I want.

 

[WutApex]

Anyone using Evans Coolant?

Is parts store Peak or Prestone fine?

 

[M-Sport fan]

Anyone using Evans Coolant?

Is parts store Peak or Prestone fine?

Someone on here is using Evans, but I cannot remember who.
They wrote a post, or even started a thread about it, and I will try to find it.

 

[jayrod1980]

Mountune radiator is the best you can get! I’ve only had the two biggest intercoolers you can get for the Fiesta (DHM and BA) the entire life of this car and I can sit in my car idling with AC on full blast in Las Vegas at 110F and never creep past 193F. When I’m pushing the car hard up a mountain for extended periods, oil temps cause the car to hit 198-200F at most. City driving the car stays at 185-191F constant. This is the best mod possible for anyone with even a stage 1 tune, aside from upgraded intercooler. I run 75/25 water to coolant and haven’t changed the fluid since installing it years ago.

The only trouble I had was getting burrs in my eyes from tumbleweeds when pulling the stock radiator out from underneath. Don’t bother with the mishimoto, there’s no need. Make sure however you buy a new temp sensor or whatever that part is in the old radiator so that there’s no trouble. I’ve heard it’s hard to remove. It’s pretty cheap and slots right in new on the Mountune.

 

[jayrod1980]

The stock radiator does overheat. First summer in Las Vegas, babying it, I’d get 220F+ at every red light. Cruising the freeway off boost was okay, but every stop at a light had me almost overheating. I had a giant IC in front of my radiator but it’s telling that since changing it to a Mountune I’ve not ever seen above 210F even once and I’m always driving around Nevada and Arizona in the summer. I can’t even imagine how bad it is in a humid state in the high 90s.

 

[jayrod1980]

Yea, I actually ordered silicone hoses myself, but after reading about how they may sweat, and smell i just unclamped the factory ones from the one radiator and shoved them aside then reinstalled them. The factory clamps for the lines don’t fit over the Mountune, so get yourself some worm gears. Also I HIGHLY suggest getting another oem “bleed tube” as it’s plastic and it will probably break when you take it off the factory radiator to install it on the mountune. I tried to be gentle and broke mine, it may take a few days to get(plan ahead) but personally I’d say it’s a MUST have spare item as that one part alone can make the car inop until it’s replaced. Do you research for the rem/install, there are a few good ones on YouTube, and a few bad. Mountune does include directions that are pretty good I’d say for the most part. If you have any problems or questions feel free to shoot me a pm man. I did this alone in my garage, about 3 hrs start to finish. Take your time and be patient.

I’m using all the stock clamps and hoses, zero issues.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Mountune radiator is the best you can get!

I will absolutely take the Mountune/CSF over the Mishimoto, no question whatsoever!

But I wish there was more discussion and comparisons of the pros/cons of the PRO ALLOY vs. the Mountune, as that is the only other radiator I would consider for this car.