Speakers, amplifier, and subwoofer - upgrade and installation how to

[maestromaestro]

Idle hands are the devil's workshop, they say... Thus, in search of an answer to the question nobody asked, I decided that I would change the OEM speakers and install a hide-away (under-the-seat) subwoofer and amplifier as well. Clearly, there are a bunch of threads that cover the speaker swap and subwoofer and amp installations, but I could not find a comprehensive write up.

So, this is what I did - not to say that this is the only or the best way of going about it; same goes for my choice of the upgrades - I wanted to spend no more than $750 or so for the whole thing. I was going to keep the Sony head unit, so rather than using line-out converters (which I bought nonetheless), I decided to get an amp with the high-level input capabilities as well. I wasn't going to enter this into any kind of sound competition, and wasn't going to be obsessive over using oxygen-free copper, etc... What's that? Pointless then, you say? Perhaps. But, see above.

The hardware included the following:

• Speakers front: Polk Audio DB6502 6.5" 300W 2 Way Car/Marine ATV Stereo Component Speakers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FV1K5I4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Speakers rear: Polk Audio DB401 4-Inch Pair Coaxial Speakers - Silver

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0R6GQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Subwoofer: KICKER 11HS8 8" 150W Hideaway Car Audio Powered Subwoofer Sub Enclosure HS8

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007LQWSYC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Amplifier: JL Audio JX400/4D 4-channel car amplifier — 70 watts RMS x 4

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WVORKT2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also bought a 2-amplifier install kit, so I only had to run a single positive 1 gauge wire; the kit came with a main fuse and a two-fuse block.
The positive wire went through the grommet by the clutch pedal; I had already run a cable for the LED lights that I have on the crash bar behind the grille, so this was an easy job.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/sRgVrOMPDTeZ2Iu42
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MPwAZsINnEb8mPbn1

I ran the positive along the loom on the passenger side; that's where the input and output wires went as well (yeah, yeah, I know - potential noise and all, but - see above...) - you can run it on the inside of the passenger seat. I used short self-tapping screws for anchoring the straps of the amp and to provide the ground (negative) for the subwoofer; grounded the amplifier the same way - using the screws to secure it to the floor pan. The power to the amp went out from the block underneath the carpet of the central tunnel.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/VpuAefUmAm5Q2kbD3

I put "some" sound deadening materials in the door - not a complete coverage, but most was covered. I used a combination of the:

• Deadening mat by Noico

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZ5X7KO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Frost King FV516 Foam and Foil Duct Insulation

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H26CPFS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The duct insulation is not as heavy as the sound deadening mat, but it is a close-cell foam with a sticky backing, so it is easier to maneuver inside the door to cover the areas not covered by the Noico stuff.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AygazhO7je1xDMAX2

The tweeter mounts in place of the OEM speaker, and it is a pretty good fit - all you have to do is to hot-glue it to ensure that it stays put.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5T2GZLLQJ7mxtd5s1

The midwoofer fits in the OEM space; some people reused the OEM bracket, but this requires quite a bit of cutting and "dremeling". I used the bracket that came with the Polk speakers, it easily mounts to the existing holes with the OEM hardware; I drilled a hole in the plastic and routed the speaker wire through it.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/EPVX5QuQqXpY16Pr1

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3Fzxag1Vnj0dGnP73 (The picture is for the coaxial speaker in the rear door, but it's the same approach - a better shot)

The cross-over fits behind the handle on the passenger side:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YCdRsL6GfuyBozOt2

This is NOT the case for the driver's side, because of the extra hardware for operating the windows. I had to remove some of the foam to fit the cross-over, took some trial and error.

Now, that was the easy part. The primary challenge was to run the amp output wire to connect to the new speakers in the doors. I decided to go through the grommets by the hinges...

 

[maestromaestro]

It requires some elbow grease. Your best tool here is a relatively rigid wire to fish through; to assist, I used a flexible socket wrench extension; it kept the grommet straight, and I could slide the wire through.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LyM5jFwPqqaNzWQJ2

You have to push the connector from the door jamb out and feed the speaker wire through the opening; after that, the connector slides back - with some effort. Reinstalling the grommet results in a "good enough" fit, but not quite as close as the factory, as there was some adhesion of the rubber to the steel. To make things easier, you can pop off the weather stripping (there are barbed plastic connectors that hold it in place); also, at the edge of the door, the loom is covered by a hinged plastic cover - it can be easily flipped up using a screwdriver to undo the clasp. You can see it in the photo below:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ilxI0KrRA4ohas5g2

This works pretty much in the same way for all but the driver's door; there it took some doing to fish the speaker wire from behind the dash. The flexible wire worked great, but again - it requires patience:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LrRGNGynLO5cDL7t1
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wI5hctZJ5VDyiNS13
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ct5DXsufYJVVaBvX2

The connections to the amplifier input are easy; use the following post for the wire colors; make sure that you are using the twisted pair!
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/3642-Ford-Fiesta-ST-Speaker-Wire-Colors


For the rears, I used the locations behind the plastic panel on the B pillar:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/XMdOeDQDTxTTTuaz1

For the fronts, the connections are in the footwells, behind the panels:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NEI3Vy0cNhCHnZiq2 - this is the picture of the left side taps; it also shows the connection to the switched +12V lead to use for the remote for both the amp and the subwoofer.

The rest is just making connections to the inputs and outputs of the amp and the subwoofer. I would suggest that you test things first by making temporary connections, before you start routing the wires and making things more permanent. Yes, you could solder (perhaps should, too), but again - see above... I took a bunch of photos as I went along to make sure that I am not reversing polarities; I also connected both rear speakers to the subwoofer, which may not be needed. Rather than trimming the excess, I just bundled everything and went slightly nuts with the zip ties. To connect the leads, I used "solder and heat shrink connectors", which are not really soldering, if you ask me - but they work.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jODijAeGuglQVvqR2

The results are within expectations. The speakers sound much clearer than the original; the amp provides considerably more power, and you can tweak the gain to achieve the desired output. Yes, you could use a voltmeter to arrive at proper output, but I just used my ears... I am not exactly impressed by the subwoofer; the sound is a bit muddy - maybe it's the placement, maybe something that I somehow screwed up polarity-wise, although I was pretty paranoid about that...

UPDATE: Installed the LC2i device - it does make a whole lot of difference, let me tell ya. Perhaps not so much - my ears'-wise, anyway - in restoring the attenuated low-end frequencies at higher volume, but enhancing the bass, and adding 2 more degree of freedom when it comes to tweaking the bass levels. The way I had the LC2i connected is the output of the fixed bass channels went to the powered sub (the 8" Kicker), and the "high frequency" main output went to the JLAudio channels powering the rear speakers.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/h0tqjzIBv6udHufJ2

This arrangement allows for not only increasing the gain on the bass by both the LC2i and the Kicker, but also the level of the bass on both devices, and the thing that I like the most - increasing the volume of the rear speakers independently of the fronts (which is similar to what you could do by changing the rear/front fade in the Audio settings of the Sony head unit).

So, after messing with the controls on the Sony head unit, the LC2i device, and the Kicker sub, I arrived at what I think is a major improvement from the pre-LC2i days. The bass is now much more booming (there is a lot of depth to the sound), and both the rear speakers and the sub are now "opened up".

There is still, unfortunately, the parasitic noise in the speakers upon powering up of the components.

 

[nickstewartroc]

Thanks for the writeup! Need to get around to replacing the door speakers and mainly the tweeters, think I blew out the passenger side one haha

 

[HBEcoBeaST]

I really appreciate the write-up. I'm looking to do a complete audio renovation while keeping the stock headunit and this really helps.

You didn't use a line-out converter or sound processor? I've heard that you need something with channel summing to really get good, full-range sound from our head units. True?

How do you like the polk speakers? I'm a big fan of the DB series but I've also heard good things about much cheaper speakers. Polks are $120 while Pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine, NVX are all around $70-80. Worth it?

Thanks again!

 

[maestromaestro]

I really appreciate the write-up. I'm looking to do a complete audio renovation while keeping the stock headunit and this really helps.

You didn't use a line-out converter or sound processor? I've heard that you need something with channel summing to really get good, full-range sound from our head units. True?

How do you like the polk speakers? I'm a big fan of the DB series but I've also heard good things about much cheaper speakers. Polks are $120 while Pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine, NVX are all around $70-80. Worth it?

Thanks again!

I didn't use LOCs, but - it may be advisable. Same goes for using a similar device to restore trimmed low frequencies that the head unit cuts off at higher volumes (rewiring is necessary, as I understand - there's a thread on this subject)

As to researching the speakers - I settled on a certain price point and quality. Maybe there's a sweet spot at a lower pp, but I didn't feel that it was worth spending extra time to save a few bucks. Just my opinion, you can do better, I'm sure, especially if this is fun for you.

Oddly, now I have a bit of a hum out of the speakers, which means that the power wire is causing interference (likely). When the sound is on or in driving (I have a straight pipe), I don't hear it, naturally. Maybe I'll chase this sometime later...

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[HBEcoBeaST]

I didn't use LOCs, but - it may be advisable. Same goes for using a similar device to restore trimmed low frequencies that the head unit cuts off at higher volumes (rewiring is necessary, as I understand - there's a thread on this subject)

As to researching the speakers - I settled on a certain price point and quality. Maybe there's a sweet spot at a lower pp, but I didn't feel that it was worth spending extra time to save a few bucks. Just my opinion, you can do better, I'm sure, especially if this is fun for you.

Oddly, now I have a bit of a hum out of the speakers, which means that the power wire is causing interference (likely). When the sound is on or in driving (I have a straight pipe), I don't hear it, naturally. Maybe I'll chase this sometime later...

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

I'm considering an lc2i or lc7i with the 'accu bass' restorer. I was concerned with the built in factory crossover/EQ sending crap signals to good speakers therefore needing SOMEthing to fix it. I also can't bring myself to spend thousands in audio upgrades for this car.

Always good to get a first hand opinion. Some audiophiles NEED a Dsp which I just don't see the value in doubling the cost of my audio retrofit for slightly better sound. Glad to hear you're happy with the results even without a LOC.

Electrical Gremlins suck. My truck had 2 amps and Mickey mouse wiring done by a shop that barely stayed open 6months.... Buzz city. Definitely learned my lesson and having amp, wires, speakers and door sound proofing installed by a big name shop with lifetime warranty.

They always sell cheap 'noise killers' to eliminate the buzz.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[maestromaestro]

I also can't bring myself to spend thousands in audio upgrades for this car.

I was all in at about $750; but, it is a middle-of-the-road quality-wise. Also, 8" sub is not exactly meant to buzz the neighborhood. I will be tweaking it further; potentially with a converter.
Maybe attach the sub to the front speaker inputs. But, I would be chasing pocket lint at that point, I suspect.

 

[Intuit]

What are you using for your amp turn-on signal? Do you have a location that allows for running the amp in radio-only mode?

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/17119-INFO-Empty-F24-7-5A-Audio-Unit-Fuse

Ran my power wire through the grommet behind the driver mirror on my 2016; much easier than the firewall route. There's a panel that pops-out on the side of the dash. Behind that panel there's a round hole. Used stiff wire taped to the power wire, to pull the power wire through.

These are useful during the install...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0717B8SFF
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0714QLHJ4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073M2Y336
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0711MPLW3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074CH3T4K

I also noticed that the factory speaker wiring is "twisted" pair. It is a good idea to adopt this practice when soldering on your wire extensions as it will help with a cleaner signal. Attaching the wire to a drill helps accomplish this more efficiently. This jig can be adapted. http://www.instructables.com/id/Free-Wire-Twisting-Jig/

 

[maestromaestro]

To drive the amp and the sub, I hooked into a switched cicuit in the look in the driver's footwell. One of the "fatter" wires... It does run in radio-only mode, but - having both devices on does tax the battery.

All the organizing hardware you suggest is very neat; I'm just not that anal... I did use some of the corrugated tubing to make it cleaner.

As to the routing the positive through the hole in the dash - I used that path but for the speaker wire. I had already gone through the grommet in the firewall for something else, so - figured the more, the merrier.

I did end up with some noise in the speakers, so, clearly better wire management and maybe indeed twisting the wire pairs would be an answer.

I decided to add a 2-channel LC2i bass restorer to the setup, so hopefully that may do some good for the noise issue. However, between the no cat converter and the Turbosmart BOV and the Injen air intake the car generates a lot of sounds, so the low volume static is not really a bother. Fart in a hurricane...

Incidentally, the Kicker sub decided to stop working several days ago. Had to send it back to the merchant (not an authorized dealer, so Kicker would not honor the warranty) to swap for a working one. When it comes back, I'd install the LC2i doohickey.

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[AzNightmare]

I had a question:

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/...od-KSC-SW11-Connect-to-front-or-rear-speakers

I didn't get any replies in my thread, but I figured someone that seems to be experienced in this would know...

For a compact powered subwoofer (under the seat), should should I connect wires to the front speakers or the rear? (Or doesn't matter?)

 

[maestromaestro]

I had a question:

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/...od-KSC-SW11-Connect-to-front-or-rear-speakers

I didn't get any replies in my thread, but I figured someone that seems to be experienced in this would know...

For a compact powered subwoofer (under the seat), should should I connect wires to the front speakers or the rear? (Or doesn't matter?)

There's a discussion about that on related theeads. Seems that folks liked the results better if the sub was connected to the FRONTS.

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[AzNightmare]

There's a discussion about that on related theeads. Seems that folks liked the results better if the sub was connected to the FRONTS.

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Thanks. Do you happen to know where I can read about the discussion? Just trying to learn more.

 

[maestromaestro]

Thanks. Do you happen to know where I can read about the discussion? Just trying to learn more.

I don't have it handy - use searching for key words, it should pop up.

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[ProDigit]

Nice writeup!
However, how does it sound?

Is it worth replacing the stock drivers/tweeters, or is the difference barely noticeable?

 

[redmoe]

Nice writeup!
However, how does it sound?

Is it worth replacing the stock drivers/tweeters, or is the difference barely noticeable?

Last paragraph post #2 has the answer to your question

 

[ProDigit]

Last paragraph post #2 has the answer to your question

Thanks.
you could try switching polarity?

I'm looking at a single rear deck speaker solution.
Not perfect, but perhaps it would be enough to just add a tad of volume.

 

[AzNightmare]

Can anyone give me some advice....

I've removed the panels around the driver side to expose all these cables:

I understand I'm looking for the these wires:

Fiesta ST Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White
Fiesta ST Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown
Fiesta ST Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Violet
Fiesta ST Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange

The audio cables are the twisted ones, but I cannot find these colors.

I can't find the white one. I can't find the White/Violet, or the White/brown one.
I see some gray/brown ones twisted, but I don't think gray = white.

I also don't understand why some the twisted wires are twisted together. I would assume there's some logical method to the twisted pairs of wires, like the +/- wires of the same speaker are twisted together. Or left front and left rear speaker are twisted together, but it seems like the colors are just randomly selected and twisted together, making me doubt which are the correct wires I'm looking for...

Are there more wires for the speakers on the opposite side (passenger side)?

 

[maestromaestro]

They are all there for the driver side fronts. Takes some time to find them, but they are all there. Since you are going to be tapping into the hi-level signals, you need to find all the pairs for all the speakers (assuming you are going to drive them all with an amp). So, some would be in the passenger footwell, and some in the B pillars.

Look through the photos in my post and search other threads if you need more. Takes some patience to locate them, given that there are a few that look very similar.

I used one of the wires in the driver's footwell loom to be the switched power to turn the amp and the sub on.

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[Intuit]

Along the pillar behind the seat belt ribbon on either side, there's a plug. I was able to pull the plug strip-away the wire and solder on my twisted-pair extensions there.

Rear Right Negative is Brown with Blue stripe.
Rear Right Positive is Brown with White stripe.

Left Rear Negative is Brown with Yellow stripe.
Left Rear Positive is White with Green stripe.

Connected my old Alpine unit to the rear and the volume has been more than sufficient. Gain and bass boost has gone back to zero/flat until I get more time to tweak it.

Sound focus sets longer delays for the right-rear and right-front speakers, than the left-front and left-rear speakers. Sony tries to mimic the Alpine tuneability with "Driver" and "All Passengers" presets. The closer the speaker to your ear, the longer it's sound output is delayed. In theory that provides for the best sound staging. In practice I kind of went with an inverse of that logic, setting the subwoofer, the farthest speaker, for the longest of the delays. Don't know if it was due to cancellation or what, but it just seemed significantly more audible at the lower frequencies.

Got my wiring from the factory manual. I can vouch that this matches the rear. You'll need to verify the rest.
http://qa.answers.com/Q/What_are_the_wire_color_codes_in_Ford_Fiesta_radio

In a Ford Fiesta, the radio constant 12v+ wire is yellow/red, the ground wire is black/blue, and the illumination wire is blue. For the front speakers, the left front speaker wire (+) is white, the left front speaker wire (-) is white/brown, the right front speaker wire (+) is white/violet, and the right front speaker wire (-) is white/orange. For the rear speakers, the left rear speaker wire (+) is white/green, the left rear speaker wire (-) is brown/yellow, the right rear speaker wire (+) is brown/white, and the right rear speaker wire (-) is brown/blue.

 

[AzNightmare]

Thanks guys, all good now. I got the install to work.