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Solid rear axle mod?

dhminer

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Burlington, NC, USA
#21
You might be able to guess initially by the build date on the sticker in your drivers doorsill. The suspension changeover was mid Feb 2016 (02/16 or later on the sticker, 2016 models were built July 2015 to June 2016 or something like that).

Some of the changes were rolled out earlier - mine is a 2016 with a Jan 2016 build date. It has (had) the updated 2-port evap line and Sync 3, but still came with the older model suspension, and no wind deflectors by the side mirrors
Yeah I’m thinking it’s the updated one. Build date 11/16
 


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529
Location
Indianapolis, IN, USA
#22
Reviving this post as I've been trying to dial out understeer for autocross. I used to get the rear oput with a stock set up and all season (!) tires, but since I switched to 200tws and Enkeis I've got much more mechanical grip, but also terminal understeer. Right now I'm running 42 psi up front and 39 rear. I've considered sacrificing grip in the rear by upping the pressure to get more rotation. If that fails, I plan to go with a rear sway bar (19mm if I can still find one, since I have a '15 with the thinner front bar).

Any other thoughts here?
 


Fusion Works

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Premium Account
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Location
Huntsville, AL, USA
#23
More rear pressure, more rear bar, more rear spring, etc. I have a Eibach that I might sell because I upgraded to a 25mm rear bar. What class are you running in?

Change your alignment to get more rear toe out. Yes you will need camber shims. Also .125in toe out in the front and -2.5deg of negative camber will help get the front under control a little better.
 


Messages
422
Likes
529
Location
Indianapolis, IN, USA
#24
More rear pressure, more rear bar, more rear spring, etc. I have a Eibach that I might sell because I upgraded to a 25mm rear bar. What class are you running in?

Change your alignment to get more rear toe out. Yes you will need camber shims. Also .125in toe out in the front and -2.5deg of negative camber will help get the front under control a little better.
I’m running in HS so very limited. Rear bar is up next. Hoping to get a 19mm but keep me posted if you decide to part with your 21mm.
 


FlordPerformance

Member
U.S. Coast Guard Veteran
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Location
North Eastern USA
#25
Something that might help down the road if one can locate the dead axle swap, Not sure the Connect rear axle would work as it might be to long. But if you're switching to the dead axle and need a bit more camber. you could be looking at either rewelding the hub plates locate don the dead axle or add in camber plates which is what we're looking to do ourselves.

imageedit_2_8865508762.jpg
I mean if I had the time and money, id buy a new/used dead axle and just have the hub plates repositioned. Adding the camber plates would grain you apporx 1.5° where as modifying the dead axle, one would gain more just depends on how close the tires could be to the body or other suspension components.

https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif...amber-plates-kit-2014-fiesta-st-free-shipping

One more thing to add, even with a dead axle, you still may need a sway bar, but as of yet I've not located a sway bar that can be used in this instance. I have seen something that attaches to the lower coil spring perch. but can't verify.
 


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