Setup guide for tracking a daily driven FiST

[canuckr]

Here is my take after 10 years of instructing.

First, OEFvet11 offers some greate advice.

My advice for a newb:
Have fun! and listen to your instructor!
Bleed brakes before your event (I love me some motul rbf600)
Stock pads/rotors are ok (for future, get track pads/rotors for the front and switch at the track)
Nut and bolt check before event..
Check tire pressure after your session when the tires are hot (No idea for baseline tire pressures when hot)
Slow in, fast out.. Be smooth with all inputs. Learn to pick reference points off track (a house in the distance to aim for, for example)
Bring tools, water, a present for your instructor, ask questions, be open to feedback, clean our your car (nothing lose), jack/jack stands, etc.
Never use your E-Brack while at the track!!!!
Have Fun!

Your Questions:
Cooling - Straight distilled water or should I leave the coolant as is?
->Leave Stock
Would it benefit the cooling to remove the hood heat deflector(the cloth like piece stuck the underside of the hood)?
Also, would removing the engine cover help with cooling?
->No real benefit.. But motor noises increases and that is a good thing.. The Fist is quiet imo
How about removing the cowl?
->dont be dumb.. No point..
Would I help the car by popping the hood immediately after getting off the track and then actually lifting it up after I can finally stop?
->Never pop your hood while driving! But opening your hood when parked after your session is a good idea.
Brakes - removing dust shields and adding the boomba deflectors? Has anyone actually tested these deflectors with positive results?
->Removing the dust shields is ok, but not needed. No idea about those deflectors.. save the money
Oil - I run Pennzoil Platinum full synth 5w-30 in this engine, all the time. I assume I am ok with this oil but would like to hear opinions on it.
->Bring extra to the track and check after each session.. Force of habit for me since I use to track a Honduh..
I will have about 5k miles on my oil when it is time to go on the track. Would it be better to put fresh in for the track then change afterwards, or just leave the current oil in the car then change it? I normally change it at 7500 mile intervals.
->Change it before the event and soon after.
I'm also currently at 23k miles on my transmission fluid and will probably be around 26k at the event time. Would it be better to change this before or after?
->You can change before or after.. Depends on who lazy you are.
Fuel - I can get 98 octane at the track. Would I benefit from this at all or hurt the car being that I'm 95% sure I'll be using the Cobb Stage 3 OTS tune during the weekend. Should I just stick with 93 E-10?
->Track gas is mucho$$$$$$.. Stick with 93. Dont mess with tunes.

<-Trying to avoid doing work..

 

[ericr]

Here's my list;

Brakes - Search the other forum for brake cooling ducts. It's about a $100 in parts from Amazon and it works. I had Torque fluid and Porterfield R4's before the ducts and still had fade. Now, I'm on stock pads with no fade. For a daily driver/DE car, it works fine - with this, you probably don't need a BBK.

Suspension - Get some camber bolts. Stock, the car pushes. I run -2.25 camber, 0 toe and the push is gone with even tire wear running R888's. I'm also running Koni sports on the stock springs and think it's perfect for a DD/DE car.

Driver Interaction - For the HMI improvements, I added a shifter extension to eliminate that 5th gear reach out of the seat, and a pedal set. It allows for effortless, "falls readily to hand", heel-toe downshifts. It'll make you faster than a whole bunch of expensive speed parts. Being able to heel-toe well is absolutely critical to being fast, despite what the bench racers say.

I had an overheat once. Depending on your climate, you may need a better radiator.

 

[Brick]

Here's my list;

Brakes - Search the other forum for brake cooling ducts. It's about a $100 in parts from Amazon and it works. I had Torque fluid and Porterfield R4's before the ducts and still had fade. Now, I'm on stock pads with no fade. For a daily driver/DE car, it works fine - with this, you probably don't need a BBK.

Suspension - Get some camber bolts. Stock, the car pushes. I run -2.25 camber, 0 toe and the push is gone with even tire wear running R888's. I'm also running Koni sports on the stock springs and think it's perfect for a DD/DE car.

Driver Interaction - For the HMI improvements, I added a shifter extension to eliminate that 5th gear reach out of the seat, and a pedal set. It allows for effortless, "falls readily to hand", heel-toe downshifts. It'll make you faster than a whole bunch of expensive speed parts. Being able to heel-toe well is absolutely critical to being fast, despite what the bench racers say.

I had an overheat once. Depending on your climate, you may need a better radiator.

did you get the OMP/OPM pedals? roughly 40 bucks on amazon?

 

[ericr]

did you get the OMP/OPM pedals? roughly 40 bucks on amazon?

I bought the OMP OA1000 set from a local retailer that also sells online for about $35. Here's a post that I made awhile ago about the installation...

http://tinyurl.com/kchc2xw

 

[FiSTbump]

Commenting to subscribe..
Amazing info! I'm going on my first ever track day next weekend so this is very helpful. Thanks boys.