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Rear Sway Bar — Testing?

PunkST

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#21
I would increase the front grip first as much as possible, set camber and tire pressures for even temps while hard cornering is one way to evaluate... but a large RSB certainly helps with that (sort of like boosting the spring rate in the rear outside wheel in a turn provides more pressure for the front inside wheel in that turn)
Already have a pierce 6 point front brace, it needs replacement after i hit a chunk of concrete. I plan to step down to a 4 point. Get poly front sway bushings as well.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #22
When I experienced it, it was much more of a snap oversteer situation- it rotated nicely, especially around constant radius turns, but the setup I had was sketchy in slaloms- everything felt fine, and the next thing you know, you get a great view of the cone you just passed.
Swift springs you "probably" have are very stiff in the back... 172F/137R is OEM, 212F/212R is Swift. Wheel rates are a little less, but you get the picture, no torsion bar or swaybar needed there IMHO
 


maestromaestro

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#23
I want more rotation like that. Its my driving style.
This makes two of us. I can’t get it to rotate on the track- short of a Scandinavian flick, and everybody is talking about how easily the FiST oversteers. Hence the sway bar. And, I removed the front underbrace. So, we’ll see....
 


PunkST

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#24
Whats your rear tire pressure at? I ran with higher rear pressure all stock and it would swing pretty well. With all the stability systems off. I start turning the wheel them give the brakes a quick stomp and release once the nose is already turning in to the apex. Its a weird motion. But youre intentionally upsetting the chassis. You only need like a quick half travel push on the brake pedal. Id say find a lot and get some practice with the car pitching like that. All it takes is seat time. Id also say toss the front brace back on.

I also want to add that lowering the car, and widening the rear track with a 5mm spacer made it mote resistant to rotation.
Running 16x7 20 offset old mustang wheels made it VERY stable and i had to push it really hard to get rotation. Even on old all seasons. Which was a real eye opener to me.
 


Last edited:

Erick_V

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#25
I want more rotation like that. Its my driving style.
I plan to either run ksport colivers or b6 dampers and whiteline springs. Havent really decided
I’m on BC Coils and I have the rear coils set pretty stiff when I autocross and it gets a little on the snappy side, I like it that way too. I was running the Falken 615k (not the +) at closer to 40psi front and 37ish on the rear. Really liked how the car felt but I’m saving for a 16x8 dekagran setup and stiffer swift springs now. I only have a 2pt front and the rear torsion brace. My coils are standard BC Coils with 5k front and 3k rears. If you go the BC route I would spring the extra money and get the swift springs, too soft for my taste
 


PunkST

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#26
I’m on BC Coils and I have the rear coils set pretty stiff when I autocross and it gets a little on the snappy side, I like it that way too. I was running the Falken 615k (not the +) at closer to 40psi front and 37ish on the rear. Really liked how the car felt but I’m saving for a 16x8 dekagran setup and stiffer swift springs now. I only have a 2pt front and the rear torsion brace. My coils are standard BC Coils with 5k front and 3k rears. If you go the BC route I would spring the extra money and get the swift springs, too soft for my taste
Shes a dual purpose street car honestly. Id probably keep the stock rates so that way im not rattling myself sore.
 


Erick_V

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#27
Shes a dual purpose street car honestly. Id probably keep the stock rates so that way im not rattling myself sore.
Same for me. I daily my car and it rides softer than stock, which is a good thing for the 99% of the time I drive it but I feel like the lower spring rates are holding me back. I don’t feel like I would be sacrificing much ride quality if I were to run 7k front/ 5-6k rear. My exhaust andmotor mounts transmit more NVH than the coils
 


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