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$139 oil cooler! Ebay oil cooler

frankiefiesta

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#2
For $140 I'd try it. Just keep an eye out for the oil light lol

I actually bought their turbo manifold for $350 off of eBay. Never hurts to try stuff even if it doesn't work well it's a cheap gamble
 


RAAMaudio

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#3
No tstat in the plate, not a good thing, takes longer to warm up the oil causing more wear on the engine and in cold climates could keep it to to low.

The stock cooler cooling system sucks but it you want to make it better this is not it unless you live in very warm climate and always make sure the oil is warmed up before getting it on.

I understand going cheap but it has to be right at the same time.
 


Hijinx

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#4
For $140 I'd try it. Just keep an eye out for the oil light lol

I actually bought their turbo manifold for $350 off of eBay. Never hurts to try stuff even if it doesn't work well it's a cheap gamble
I disagree. I think it hurts the community. The more people cheap out, the more expensive true quality becomes. As the old adage goes "mod right, mod once." Or was that "measure twice, cut once"...? Stuff and things...
 


RAAMaudio

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#5
Great and very accurate points buddy:)

I have cheaped out so many times that cost me more than doing it right, finally I mostly learned to do it right.

BUT, mid to upper mid is the way to go on most things, for house stuff, cars, boats...once past a certain point the cost for improvements goes up exponentially.
 


frankiefiesta

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#6
I disagree. I think it hurts the community. The more people cheap out, the more expensive true quality becomes. As the old adage goes "mod right, mod once." Or was that "measure twice, cut once"...? Stuff and things...
I'm not trying to bad mouth mishi because I have bought some of their products, but at the end of the day they get parts produced in China just like this eBay cooler. They probably do more R&d, come on here and make fancy threads, but do some research and you will find out it's all made in China. You pay for the name when it comes to mishi
 


Hijinx

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I'm not trying to bad mouth mishi because I have bought some of their products, but at the end of the day they get parts produced in China just like this eBay cooler. They probably do more R&d, come on here and make fancy threads, but do some research and you will find out it's all made in China. You pay for the name when it comes to mishi
Pun of the Year award goes to...
[MENTION=952]frankiefiesta[/MENTION]

You da real MVP.
 


frankiefiesta

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Pun of the Year award goes to...
[MENTION=952]frankiefiesta[/MENTION]

You da real MVP.
Point I was trying to make, I have no problem buying stuff from eBay/China. I wouldn't buy the same part with mishimoto painted on it for 4x the price. If it helps you sleep at night knowing you paid more for a very similar product then by all means go for it :)
 


frankiefiesta

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#9
Its amazing what good marketing can do for a company ;) I think I'll eventually buy this cooler, add a 180 degree inline t-stat and see how it works.
 


RAAMaudio

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#11
Good idea on the inline tstat, hope the kit is decently made and holds up.

I used a Mocal plate that was used a bit on one of my race cars, bought a new Setrab cooler with inlet and outlet on same end, double pass, less hose, less weight, less air flow blockage to the other coolers.....and used hose and ends I already had, mounting was pretty easy as well. I did buy two specific 90's I needed, if I did this will all new parts it would of been around $400 or a bit less.

I always use push on rubber type hose and fittings as less weight and cost and they do not wear out things they rub on. I just add some foam to protect them if need to keep them from touching something. I also put a clamp on them for added insurance as blew one off a few years back and went off track at speed on fire....it was my fault, wrong fitting as there are a few different styles of hose and fittings which I knew better, just grabbed the wrong one.
 


frankiefiesta

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Good idea on the inline tstat, hope the kit is decently made and holds up.

I used a Mocal plate that was used a bit on one of my race cars, bought a new Setrab cooler with inlet and outlet on same end, double pass, less hose, less weight, less air flow blockage to the other coolers.....and used hose and ends I already had, mounting was pretty easy as well. I did buy two specific 90's I needed, if I did this will all new parts it would of been around $400 or a bit less.

I always use push on rubber type hose and fittings as less weight and cost and they do not wear out things they rub on. I just add some foam to protect them if need to keep them from touching something. I also put a clamp on them for added insurance as blew one off a few years back and went off track at speed on fire....it was my fault, wrong fitting as there are a few different styles of hose and fittings which I knew better, just grabbed the wrong one.
That's awesome. Actually after posting that I would buy the eBay kit I got to thinking I could probably use better parts for less money than the mishimoto kit. I found a mocal plate for $98 (internal t stat) and a used, pressure tested setrab cooler are on eBay for $50-$80. The hoses and fittings wouldn't be too much more. Think it will be one of my projects after cyborg turbo.
 


koozy

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#13
there's more negatives with this ebay kit, than good IMO.

- not designed for USDM. usually wouldn't be a big issue, but it looks like this kit mounts on to the bumper. that may be ok with the EU bumper, but may not fit with the US bumper and cover.
- line fittings are pointing up. not a big issue, but with the Mishimoto kit most of the oil drains out of the cooler with the fittings facing down, a nice feature.
- 13 row cooler vs. 19 row cooler
- has a non-thermostatic sandwich adapter.
- does not remove the OE water/oil cooler. this is the biggest downside IMO. the OE cooler should be removed. doing so will have the biggest impact on coolant temps. by not removing the OE cooler both oil and coolant temps will not be reduced by much.

the price is cheap, so it may be worth it for some to try it out and adjust things to work right. If anyone tries it out let us know how it works out. it's always good to have viable options.
 


RAAMaudio

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#14
I found some well priced very good fittings on Amazon or Ebay, have to check to be sure, it would save considerable funds over name brand ones. I have used Speedway and Summit fittings and hoses before as well, good stuff, reasonable prices.

Used Setrabs are great, do an extra flush with some solvent to ensure no engine bits in it, the fittings are sometimes different as well and look for one with them on the same end. The one I have are verticle, after I installed it I found one with them on the very end, horizontal, even better!

Pretty sure it is Mocal but might be Setrab has a fitting to replace the part that holds the stock cooler on which for a decent price.

I did not find anything when I did mine but found a brass fitting at a small hardware store than worked though I have not been able to find another one like it and looked at different places.

Until I found the part so I could remove the stock cooler I just disconnected and routed around it. There is a way to flip the dual hose connection on the front of the engine to shorted the hose considerably, saves a bit more weight, I am always looking for every once I can remove and it adds up considerably if you do all you can:)

Hope this helps, DIY is in my blood, love to help others out doing the same:)
 


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#15
Pretty sure it is Mocal but might be Setrab has a fitting to replace the part that holds the stock cooler on which for a decent price.
An old post I know, but did you have any more information about this fitting needed to remove the OEM water to oil cooler? Thanks
 


RAAMaudio

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#16
When I did mine I found an odd fitting in a parts bin and a hardware store and with a little tweaking it worked.

Quite some time ago I found a part made by Mocal I believe that was designed for this particular application, it was on the UK site so I would check there first.

I completely forgot about this as was going to order one as mine could use a couple of more spins on the threads but close over two years and 13.5k miles, 8 to to 118 degree weather, engine and trans mounts, etc...no issues at all so I guess it worked out fine:)
 




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