Question on speaker output with sync 3 and possible word of caution

[Bp021590]

Hey Everyone,

I have recently completed a complete audio overhaul in my FiST. I'm running infinity speakers, an Audiocontrol lc7i, a 4 channel infinity amp, and a powered Rockford Fosgate sub. This is my first time doing this and I fear I've run into an issue. I pulled my audio signal from the rear right and rear left channels. It seems that with sync 3 all Bluetooth call audio, notification audio, as well as NAV audio is ONLY routed through the front channels. I have no issue with media audio. I really don't want to try to tap into the front channels if I don't have to. I've tried to reset Sync 3 and I disconnected the battery to no avail. The reason I've come to this conclusion is because I was in the sound settings in sync 3 and a call came through. When that happened the fade setting automatically went to the front speakers. Could Someone confirm this for me? Thanks!

 

[chicagoslick]

Yes, the front speakers are primarily driven for phone, navigation, and voice commands within the Sync system. All speakers are driven for audio (cd, radio, serious xm, multimedia). If you want all of the speakers to work in all instances you must at least use the front speaker outputs and tie those to the LC7i. I know you did not want to do that, but that is how the system is designed.

 

[Bp021590]

I appreciate the reply Chicagoslick. I assumed that was the case but I didn't want to jump into tapping into the fronts if it wasn't necessary. It may be prudent to sticky this so that others who do an audio upgrade know this? I did a good amount of research before I upgraded mine and saw nothing about this. Any recommendations on the best place to tap into the front outputs?

 

[chicagoslick]

I appreciate the reply Chicagoslick. I assumed that was the case but I didn't want to jump into tapping into the fronts if it wasn't necessary. It may be prudent to sticky this so that others who do an audio upgrade know this? I did a good amount of research before I upgraded mine and saw nothing about this. Any recommendations on the best place to tap into the front outputs?

I took the door panels off and traced the wiring back from the speakers to the area just inside the car. I then tapped into those wires to bring the signal back to the LOC. I did not record what color wires or else I would pass that on to you. I'm not sure if I had that information I would trust it anyway. Car manufactures changes things so often that it would be hard to trust. It only takes a few minutes to remove the door panels and then all of the wiring will be visible.

 

[Autonomous]

Rather than trying to dig through the loom at each kick panel I think I would pull the dash and get the signal right behind the radio.

Looks like a lot of work, but isn't very hard, and you only have to do it once instead of once per side.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[HardBoiledEgg]

Wow glad I read this!


I'm sourcing system parts right now and was planning on being lazy and tapping at the back lol


Also not a fan of tearing into a brand new dash, guess I have no choice

 

[Bp021590]

I took the door panels off and traced the wiring back from the speakers to the area just inside the car. I then tapped into those wires to bring the signal back to the LOC. I did not record what color wires or else I would pass that on to you. I'm not sure if I had that information I would trust it anyway. Car manufactures changes things so often that it would be hard to trust. It only takes a few minutes to remove the door panels and then all of the wiring will be visible.

I did the same thing when I spliced the outs from my amp to the existing door speaker wire. I suppose I can pull the speaker outs through the hole between the door and kick panel I just worry because of how thin the wires are. I will give that a try whenever I find the time to try it. Thank you again for all of your help.

 

[Bp021590]

Rather than trying to dig through the loom at each kick panel I think I would pull the dash and get the signal right behind the radio.

Looks like a lot of work, but isn't very hard, and you only have to do it once instead of once per side.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

I could try to do it this way but I just worry Ill inevitably damage something. I work for a Ford dealer and could look at the service manual to see what id need to do to get back behind the stereo. Unless someone has already done this and can share this knowledge. I searched the forums and didn't find any detailed info on the process.

 

[Bp021590]

Wow glad I read this!


I'm sourcing system parts right now and was planning on being lazy and tapping at the back lol


Also not a fan of tearing into a brand new dash, guess I have no choice

I'm glad this thread saved you some grief. That's what this community is for. If you have any other questions on how to wire everything up id be happy to help.

 

[HardBoiledEgg]

I've done multiple systems so I'm sure I got it. Thanks though


I just didn't want to tear into the dash and break clips and such to try and get the headunit out. Guess we have no choice

 

[HardBoiledEgg]

I've done multiple systems so I'm sure I got it. Thanks though


I just didn't want to tear into the dash and break clips and such to try and get the headunit out. Guess we have no choice

 

[Autonomous]

I could try to do it this way but I just worry Ill inevitably damage something. I work for a Ford dealer and could look at the service manual to see what id need to do to get back behind the stereo. Unless someone has already done this and can share this knowledge. I searched the forums and didn't find any detailed info on the process.

https://youtu.be/4nXICiknn0Q

That's a video of a base model Fiesta, but the fasteners should be the same.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[chicagoslick]

In this instance it will be fine to grab the signal from either place, however in general be cautious with this approach. It is possible to have amps downstream of the head unit in other systems and you do not want to be inbetween the head unit and an amp with your LOC.

I usually trace the wiring back from the speakers and tap into an area that allows easy access to the side floor railing / existing wire chase. This approach will usually keep you from making mistakes. I also take the time to identify polarity while using this approach. Since the speakers are uncovered you can take a AA battery and place that on the 2 leads to be sure which wires you need and identify polarity. BTW when you place the battery on the 2 wires leading to the speaker you can observe which direction the woofer moves. If it moves outward you have identified your positive and negative speaker wires.

 

[Bp021590]

In this instance it will be fine to grab the signal from either place, however in general be cautious with this approach. It is possible to have amps downstream of the head unit in other systems and you do not want to be inbetween the head unit and an amp with your LOC.

I usually trace the wiring back from the speakers and tap into an area that allows easy access to the side floor railing / existing wire chase. This approach will usually keep you from making mistakes. I also take the time to identify polarity while using this approach. Since the speakers are uncovered you can take a AA battery and place that on the 2 leads to be sure which wires you need and identify polarity. BTW when you place the battery on the 2 wires leading to the speaker you can observe which direction the woofer moves. If it moves outward you have identified your positive and negative speaker wires.

Awesome, i will definitely do the polarity test while I'm at it. Ill be sure to let you all know when I get it all done.

 

[Autonomous]

In this instance it will be fine to grab the signal from either place, however in general be cautious with this approach. It is possible to have amps downstream of the head unit in other systems and you do not want to be inbetween the head unit and an amp with your LOC.

Thanks for the heads up. As I understood it, you want to get signal before a factory amplifier because getting signal after it you would be stuck with any crap tune built into it, plus any distortion from an extra component.


Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[chicagoslick]

Autonomous,

Actually you want the wiring inbetween the factory amp, if one exist, and the speakers.
DO NOT place the LOC inbetween the factory amp and the head unit. Please reference the LC7I manual, which shows drawings and describes the process, if questions still exist.

 

[shouldbeasy]

Has it now been discovered that we can modify the stock amp output to be non-distorted and thus able to use it for an aftermarket amp? Am I understanding this correctly?

 

[Autonomous]

To my understanding, there is no separate amp in our system, just the head unit. As I understand it, the newer Sync 3 systems can be adjusted with FORSCAN to turn off the time alignment and tuning.

I bet similar can be done with Sync 2, but I haven't dug into it yet. It seems like a very robust piece of software.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[Intuit]

Yes, the front speakers are primarily driven for phone, navigation, and voice commands within the Sync system. All speakers are driven for audio (cd, radio, serious xm, multimedia). If you want all of the speakers to work in all instances you must at least use the front speaker outputs and tie those to the LC7i. I know you did not want to do that, but that is how the system is designed.

As far as phone calls, the system was probably calibrated to a two-speaker output. Muting may become a problem if four speakers are driven.

But this does explain why the volume just about has to be maxed-out when the windows are down at speed. The call volume simply isn't loud enough to be well understood.

 

[letitreign]

I'm pretty sure you can't tap the signal from the head unit. The headunit feeds a seperate multimedia module from which the signal is sent to the speakers.