Question about positioning jack stands

[meFiSTo]

In the past, I've just used my floor jack and a slotted pad to get my car up for wheel swaps in the paddock. However, one of my local organizers is stating that jack stands are required for any car jacked up in the paddock.

I'll get some jack stands (should have kept my old ones), but am wondering if anyone could suggest safe (meaning sufficiently stout and stable) locations under the car to place jack stands to support the car during wheel swaps.

Also, any suggestions for stands? I had some typical stands before, but the V shape wasn't very under-car friendly.

Pictures are always handy for slow peoples like myself.

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[Siestarider]

I picked up a pair at Harbor Freight on sale for about $20. Small footprint and easy to adjust. I generally set them at jack points along chassis edges so if pump jack lets car move more than 1/2" or less the stands engage.

The best practice is to test load them if you are working on an unfamiliar surface. Had a professor reputed to be the smartest man in school, killed himself with a TR4, working underneath without a secondary support. Darwinism is real.

 

[CanadianGuy]

Here is what I did for teh stands that allow them to be used at the pinch welds.

 

[DaveG99]

Stands should come that way

 

[meFiSTo]

Lord, I'd never get UNDER a vehicle without very stable jack stands (frankly multiple stands) on a very flat surface. Emphasis on stable. For wheel swaps I make sure I am not under the car in any way, but I'm still looking for an easy jack stand backup option.

There was a neighbor kid back in the day who was crushed by his van in his front driveway while working under it. I do know what the setup was, but jeez, in his own driveway. I seem to recall a little bit of a slope on his driveway. But I never got specific details. By then i was off to college and just heard about it through the grape vine.

 

[briandee]

Another safety tip: If pulling wheels off for servicing something, put them under the car. Better to scratch the wheels, than crush yourself.

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[LilPartyBox]

Another safety tip: If pulling wheels off for servicing something, put them under the car. Better to scratch the wheels, than crush yourself.

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This is what i've always done as well.

I use jack stands whenever i have a car up. Even when just rotating tires. With FiST, I place the jack stands right where a lift would go. If you look at your sideskirts, there are square "cut outs". Right behind there is where i set them up. Unfortunately right on the pinch welds for now. What i've done in the past (and will do again very soon) was buy a few hocky pucks, grind a 1/2" or so grove down the middle with my table saw and use them as pads. Kind of like what CanadianGuy did but not as elaborate. I'm still looking for a better solution.

Like so:

But you've inspired some googling! I may buy this combo in the near future:

ESCO JACK STANDS

FLYIN MIATA JACK ADAPTERS

Or this for my 'V' jack stands may work well for a much smaller investment

PITTSBURGH JACK STAND PADS

 

[BBock]

I was looking at these for my jack stands cause I've definitely done a little damage underneath putting them too close to that jack point and not more on the frame.
https://www.pandamotorworks.com/col...dd-ons-universal-jack-pads?variant=1096739744

 

[Sil3nt611]

The pinchweld is usually pretty stong. Don't slam the car down on the jackstands and it shouldn't bend them.

 

[JTP]

The Pittsburg (Harbor Freight) jack stands are pretty great with the red pads on top. The biggest problem I have is where to put the jack to jack the car when I want to put a stand where I am jacking it. Its not like most cars where you can just use the front subframe or rear diff on RWD/AWD cars.

 

[arlisscm]

x2 On the esco jack stands. I picked up a set of them and they are awesome. I bought some hockey pucks for a few dollars and milled a slot down the center about 3/4 of the way through the puck to make nice little pinch seam pads. Works pretty well.

 

[Froctor]

I was looking for the same information. I found an old thread and will be trying to setup like Koozy does. My stands are more of a v-shape but i'll try to figure something out to make it fit.

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/4126-Jacking-Points

I wasnt able to link to his post directly but it is in the first page

I hope this helps

 

[VirtualRonin]

I use 3 ton aluminum jack stands. I was hesitant to use them at first without any sort of adapter but after using the factory car jack, I noticed most of weight was on the inside portion of the pinch weld. So I jacked my car up, positioned the jack stand as close as I could to the inside of the pinch weld and slowly lowered the car onto it. Did both sides just fine and checked for any deformation afterwards. All good except for a bit of paint rubbing off. I ordered some covers to use on the top of the stands from now on. I use Rhino ramps for most everything else.


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[JTP]

I was looking for the same information. I found an old thread and will be trying to setup like Koozy does. My stands are more of a v-shape but i'll try to figure something out to make it fit.

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/4126-Jacking-Points

I wasnt able to link to his post directly but it is in the first page

I hope this helps

I have seen that spot where Koozy put it and was wondering if it was a safe place to jack the car up or put a stand under. I am not entirely convinced that is the best spot to put it but it looks pretty solid. I just don't want to cave in the metal underneath.

 

[meFiSTo]

Thanks to [MENTION=411]westcoaST[/MENTION] for your notes about what you do.

This is what I settled on:

What I had:
* US General 3000 lbs racing jack from Harbor Freight (with rails removed)
* Protech slotted jack pad
* A couple of 2x6 home made ramps

What I got:
* a couple of 3-ton jack stands for $25 from Harbor Freight

I tested this today and it seems to work great:

1. On a flat surface, run the car up like always on the little make-shift wooden ramp made from a couple of 2x6 short board segments bolted together and offset. I do this because my floor jack and pad won't fit under the car without the ramps.
2. Jack the car up with the pad slid as far to the rear on the seam as the plastic trim allows.
3. Position the jack stands directly under the pinch weld at the recommended jack points (so that the pinch weld drops onto the cup of the jack stand). My jack stands do not have a deep v-shaped cup area. They are not flat, but don't have a deep groove like some do either.
4. Lower the car onto the stands. The car is essentially perched on the jack stands, balancing at the seam's contact point on the two jack stands.
5. Verify that the car is sitting on jack stands securely.

That's it. Both wheels on a side are up and easy to swap. I also slightly crack the torque on the nuts before fully lifting the car up (tires just touching the ground, not carrying load). It makes it easier to get the nuts off with my cheapo electric impact wrench once the wheels are up.

Using the stands adds a couple of minutes total to my previous approach (no jack stands) and is a lot safer. Worth the time spent. I keep the jack in place, snug to the car, but not carrying any load.

Seems very secure.

Thanks all for your suggestions and pointing to the old thread.

Note: I changed the original description after discussing the jack position with a mechanic friend. As long as the jack stand is positioned where the factory jack point is located, the pinch weld will hold the weight without pending. He said putting the jack across the pinch weld/seam at that point is safer than my original position.

YMMV.