Proper Brake Fluid Procedure?

[AZST]

I've searched a bit but can't really find the answer I'm looking for. I'm prepping to put my BBK on this week - I also have 1.5L of Motul RBF600 and stainless lines for the front and rear. How do I properly flush the brake fluid? I'm worried about getting air in the lines and in the ABS module. What tips do you guys have for going about this procedure? I do have a vacuum bleeder that I can use if needed. Thanks.

 

[jeffreylyon]

I let the system gravity bleed and topped off the master reservoir as needed until I saw the new fluid run through and, then, used the pedal to push out any remaining air. Didn't work, I ended up with air in my ABS module and had to have the dealer flush the brakes while firing the ABS module. So don't do what I did.

You're gonna love brakes. Did you get the rear set too?

 

[AZST]

I let the system gravity bleed and topped off the master reservoir as needed until I saw the new fluid run through and, then, used the pedal to push out any remaining air. Didn't work, I ended up with air in my ABS module and had to have the dealer flush the brakes while firing the ABS module. So don't do what I did.

You're gonna love brakes. Did you get the rear set too?

Alright I'll keep that in mind! No, just Rotora fronts. Waiting on word regarding a matching rear kit.

 

[gearhead313]

I have to do a brake fluid flush soon on my car to keep things fresh. Here's what to do:

Buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MVA6832-Clamp-On-Auto-Refill-Kit/dp/B000K1KPK4

This will keep all the fluid ready to flush without you having to keep an eye on the level. (I work by myself most of the time, so no one to help watch!). I havent tried mine yet on the ST, so you might have to get creative to prop it up in the remote fill reservoir.

Your current fluid should be slightly darker than the new, so you should be able to tell when new fluid comes through. You can let it gravity bleed. You can pressure bleed (hold pressure, have a friend open the bleeder to let the pedal pressure push the fluid out, close the bleeder when the pedal is at the floor, then repeat). You can vacuum bleed with a shop air actuated mightyvac or a hand pump, whichever you have.

No method is better than another, gravity is obviously the slowest. Do not just let it squirt out of the bleeder! its shaped like a pointed barb for a reason, to accept a clear hose to monitor the fluid flow! If you dont have anything, a local parts store should have something. If you dont have a local parts store, walmart should have fish tank hose... lets hope you dont have to go that route .

You can start at any wheel, but I would start at the furthest from the master cylinder [RIGHT REAR] in our case then alternate to the closest. Again, it really doesnt matter since its a "flush".


The other part of this equation is swapping the lines with the least amount of fluid loss. With stock rubber lines, you can use a fluid clamp or even vise grips to gently pinch off the line, then disconnect it from your caliper. Assemble the caliper side and get read to remove the clamped rubber line. Get some nitrile gloves on and remove the rubber line. Have a pan, baking sheet, whatever under your line and drop it when it comes loose. Wind the new line onto the cars hard line and tighten it down. Clean up any spilt fluid immediately with brake clean, alcohol, etc.

Let me know if you want to know anything else!

 

[CanadianGuy]

I let the system gravity bleed and topped off the master reservoir as needed until I saw the new fluid run through and, then, used the pedal to push out any remaining air. Didn't work, I ended up with air in my ABS module and had to have the dealer flush the brakes while firing the ABS module. So don't do what I did.

You're gonna love brakes. Did you get the rear set too?

The gravity method should not have introduced any air unless the reservoir was left to empty. When doing the gravity feed overfill the reservoir and after 1/4 cup of fluid is captured at the caliber top it up. When doing the line I like to over fill the reservoir before starting and closing the system back up. This helps to reduce the potential to loose too much fluid during the swap I too ut up between lines.

 

[dL_ST]

I've searched a bit but can't really find the answer I'm looking for. I'm prepping to put my BBK on this week - I also have 1.5L of Motul RBF600 and stainless lines for the front and rear. How do I properly flush the brake fluid? I'm worried about getting air in the lines and in the ABS module. What tips do you guys have for going about this procedure? I do have a vacuum bleeder that I can use if needed. Thanks.

I just installed my Wilwoods two months ago. I used an entire bottle of 1L ATE fluid in the process. I also did stainless lines front and rear.

Drain the system, put fluid in, bleed as much air out as you can. Drive around in an empty area without a lot of cars and repeated slam your brakes. I did it 5-6 times to release all the air bubbles from the ABS unit. Go back to your place, bleed again and you will see a shit ton of air bubbles come out. Seal it up, drive again. Repeat the slamming on brakes method to get air out of ABS. You are slamming on the brakes to open the valves in the ABS unit hence releasing all the bubbles trapped.

I only had to drive around once to get it right. Now keep in mind after the first flush your brakes are going to be soft, they will work but pedal pressure is not good. Please drive in an area that does not have a lot of foot traffic or cars.

When you are bleeding the rears, you should also pump your e-brake when your helper opens the bleeder valve in addition to the pedal method.

 

[Sourskittle]

http://www.jegs.com/i/Phoenix+Syste...E_QpQb3G6f9raFQq-R97FiRavIw-c7unt0aAug78P8HAQ

I used this when I did stainless lines and mot600


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[parapraxis24]

I've always used speed bleeders on my last cars, so I've done it that way though I don't know which size we need on the FiST so if anyone knows that it would be helpful.

Use a turkey baster to drain as much fluid out of the reservoir as possible, and replace it (slightly over filling it) with new fresh fluid. You always start farthest from the reservoir then work your way to closest. So rear passenger > rear driver > front passenger > front driver > slave cylinder (if you want to). Bleeding the breaks on the FiST is no different from any other car. The difficult and time consuming way is to crack the bleeder valve, push the pedal to the floor, close to valve, lift pedal off the floor and repeat until the new fluid flows out the bleeder valve. You want to attach a piece of clear tubing (get it from an auto parts store, regular clear tubing will likely melt from the brake fluid, ask me how I know).

During that process always check to make sure the reservoir does not go dry otherwise you'll introduce air into the system. Break flushes aren't complicated, but without proper tools it can be time consuming.

 

[gearhead313]

I just installed my Wilwoods two months ago. I used an entire bottle of 1L ATE fluid in the process. I also did stainless lines front and rear.

Drain the system, put fluid in, bleed as much air out as you can. Drive around in an empty area without a lot of cars and repeated slam your brakes. I did it 5-6 times to release all the air bubbles from the ABS unit. Go back to your place, bleed again and you will see a shit ton of air bubbles come out. Seal it up, drive again. Repeat the slamming on brakes method to get air out of ABS. You are slamming on the brakes to open the valves in the ABS unit hence releasing all the bubbles trapped.

I only had to drive around once to get it right. Now keep in mind after the first flush your brakes are going to be soft, they will work but pedal pressure is not good. Please drive in an area that does not have a lot of foot traffic or cars.

When you are bleeding the rears, you should also pump your e-brake when your helper opens the bleeder valve in addition to the pedal method.

Here is an important piece of information about why that DOESNT always work.

If you have air in the EBCM, then the pump runs to circulate the fluid, it does NOT put it to the caliper. If it did, then you would not get the release of pressure to unlock a wheel during a skid. Air will generally be trapped forever unless you use a scan tool to initiate a bleeding procedure that forces the pump to flow fluid through all the wheels individually. This is a common practice on Bosch Motorsports track setup. We would bleed our World Challenge car usually once a weekend to run new fluid into the system on top of standard pressure bleeding.

If you bleed it the way I described, you wont have any issues and wont have to go to the dealer for a brake bleed.

 

[awwwww_shift]

I like the reverse bleeder that Sourskittle posted.

I have this:
https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produ...84589184&sr=1-6&keywords=motive+power+bleeder

either would work...

 

[ron@whoosh]

I like the reverse bleeder that Sourskittle posted.

I have this:
https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Produ...84589184&sr=1-6&keywords=motive+power+bleeder

either would work...

+1 on this
Been using this for years - it's great

 

[awwwww_shift]

Got mine from a trackside support trailer a few years back. Since then, I've used it on my Civic, Neon, a friend's BMW, now I'll get the adapter for the Fiesta. Works great, and you can either use it to pressurize the system by itself, or you can fill the pump with fluid and pump fluid in as it's being pressurized.
Super sweet setup, and once you have the arrangement down onto the master, it is almost easier than having someone pump the brakes...

 

[Ext569]

The link provided is for the Motive Universal model and I see people having to use clamps to seal the cap tight. That wouldn't make sense if Motive has a cap that will fit our reservoir.

Seems like it should be one of these:
https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits/products/ford-two-tab-bleeder
or this one
https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits/products/ford-asian-import-three-prong-bleeder

Anybody know?

UPDATE: Ok, I got my lazy butt out to the car and the cap seems to have 3 prongs on the inside edge of it. Suppose that answers my question.

 

[AZST]

Thanks for the helpful responses!
Anyone have any tips for mounting the devices in the reservoir? It seems quite small and difficult to access.

 

[chexmixa]

so... we need the second one?

 

[chexmixa]

The link provided is for the Motive Universal model and I see people having to use clamps to seal the cap tight. That wouldn't make sense if Motive has a cap that will fit our reservoir.

Seems like it should be one of these:
https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits/products/ford-two-tab-bleeder


or this one
https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits/products/ford-asian-import-three-prong-bleeder

Anybody know?

UPDATE: Ok, I got my lazy butt out to the car and the cap seems to have 3 prongs on the inside edge of it. Suppose that answers my question.

So we need the second one?

 

[Ext569]

So we need the second one?

Would be great if someone that has that Motive bleeder could confirm the exact model number and the effectiveness of the seal to the reservoir.

 

[Ext569]

Thanks for the helpful responses!
Anyone have any tips for mounting the devices in the reservoir? It seems quite small and difficult to access.

Sorry, but are you referring to the brake fluid reservoir? Because that is easily accessible.

 

[AZST]

Sorry, but are you referring to the brake fluid reservoir? Because that is easily accessible.

Yes; I took only a brief glance at it while installing the TTR mounts. It seems to be tucked fairly deep underneath the cowl... unless it is acceptable to utilize the fill reservoir for this job?

 

[Ext569]

Yes; I took only a brief glance at it while installing the TTR mounts. It seems to be tucked fairly deep underneath the cowl... unless it is acceptable to utilize the fill reservoir for this job?

My understanding is that the Motive bleeder connects to the fill reservoir with its own cap, one that should match the cap taht is on the fill reservoir now, so no need to do anything but unscrew the stock cap, screw on the Motive one and pump/bleed away. Anyway, I would hope that be the case.