Powerflex Motor Mount Inserts

[jeff]

Hey all quick update I won't be providing a review of the black/track passengers side insert after all, Daniel went to install today and upon removing his OEM mount to add the insert he noticed it was toast. That's what an X47R plus meth plus LSD plus lightweight flywheel does to a mount. In any case he's replacing it with a CP-E mount so the insert is unnecessary hence no review or comparison vs. my yellow/street insert that I am so enjoying.

 

[TurboTechRacing]

Hey all quick update I won't be providing a review of the black/track passengers side insert after all, Daniel went to install today and upon removing his OEM mount to add the insert he noticed it was toast. That's what an X47R plus meth plus LSD plus lightweight flywheel does to a mount. In any case he's replacing it with a CP-E mount so the insert is unnecessary hence no review or comparison vs. my yellow/street insert that I am so enjoying.

That’s the issue with the stock upper engine mount, it is weak to begin with, let alone add these inserts only adds stress.

We make and sell complete replacements with a durameter of only 75. Ron at Whoosh also sells the Turbo Tech Racing mounts.

TTR mounts have an Awesome price for a complete replacement mount.

We have been producing mounts for over 15 years, since 2003.

 

[XanRules]

That’s the issue with the stock upper engine mount, it is weak to begin with, let alone add these inserts only adds stress.

We make and sell complete replacements with a durameter of only 75. Ron at Whoosh also sells the Turbo Tech Racing mounts.

TTR mounts have an Awesome price for a complete replacement mount.

We have been producing mounts for over 15 years, since 2003.

How is the engine mounted in these cars? I know about the Cobb RMM, but y'all's available from Ron appears to be an "Upper" motor mount and I'm hearing folks in this thread talk about passenger and driver's side mounts. Are there four mounts total?

Thanks!

 

[S_Manley]

How is the engine mounted in these cars? I know about the Cobb RMM, but y'all's available from Ron appears to be an "Upper" motor mount and I'm hearing folks in this thread talk about passenger and driver's side mounts. Are there four mounts total?

Thanks!

Xan,

There are three mounts. The RMM, the driver's side engine/transmission mount, and the passenger-side engine mount. I have replaced the RMM w/ a Cobb unit and the passenger side was just replaced by Ford (which has also been reinforced with the insert). I have the driver's side on the way (brand-new mount from Ford and insert from Ron). The insert will be here today and the mount will be here in the next week or so.

I had originally looked at the CPE and TTR complete driver's and passenger side mounts, but that would be $400-$500 in mounts. If I can get this to do what I want to do for about $100, I am going to try this first.

I will let you drive it again after the driver's side has been done.

 

[draxxus131]

Recently in the past week I started noticing slightly harsher vibrations through the chassis. I'm in the engine bay yesterday, upon inspection I found the passenger side mount from powerflex had basically herniated itself. It seems the rubberband/oring failed. Nothing was really holding the insert together. I replaced it with a ziptie for good measure. Just a heads up to anyone, make sure you check it. Mine had only 4k miles on it.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[jeff]

Recently in the past week I started noticing slightly harsher vibrations through the chassis. I'm in the engine bay yesterday, upon inspection I found the passenger side mount from powerflex had basically herniated itself. It seems the rubberband/oring failed. Nothing was really holding the insert together. I replaced it with a ziptie for good measure. Just a heads up to anyone, make sure you check it. Mine had only 4k miles on it.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

I wondered how that dinky O-ring was supposed to handle all that torque, and considered a zip-tie myself.

Thanks for posting this.

 

[XanRules]

Xan,

There are three mounts. The RMM, the driver's side engine/transmission mount, and the passenger-side engine mount. I have replaced the RMM w/ a Cobb unit and the passenger side was just replaced by Ford (which has also been reinforced with the insert). I have the driver's side on the way (brand-new mount from Ford and insert from Ron). The insert will be here today and the mount will be here in the next week or so.

I had originally looked at the CPE and TTR complete driver's and passenger side mounts, but that $400-$500 in mounts. If I can get this to do what I want to do for about $100, I am going to try this first.

I will let you drive it again after the driver's side has been done.

Gotcha, yeah the other mounts seem like they may be overkill for street use as yours felt plenty put together.

Oh - I epoxied that bracket back into place when I got home, seems to have held, but Rallyarmor is sending me a new one just in case. God bless Gorilla Glue.

 

[S_Manley]

Does anyone have any install instructions for the driver's side inserts? The passenger side was pretty easy. The driver's side looks a bit more complicated? My insert arrived yesterday and my new OEM mount shipped today and should be here soon and I want to get this installed ASAP.

Even some pictures or a bit of insight would be great.

Also, does anyone know the factory torque specs for the driver's side mounting bolts? I have the ones for the passenger side but I am not sure if they are torqued to the same amount on the driver's side. Any info on this is greatly appreciated!

 

[jeff]

Does anyone have any install instructions for the driver's side inserts? The passenger side was pretty easy. The driver's side looks a bit more complicated? My insert arrived yesterday and my new OEM mount shipped today and should be here soon and I want to get this installed pretty soon.

Even some pictures or a bit of insight would be great.

Also, does anyone know the factory torque specs for the driver's side mounting bolts? I have the ones for the passenger side but I am not sure if they are torqued to the same amount on the driver's side. Any info on this is greatly appreciated!

Really looking forward to your review. Please share install tips as well once it's finished.

For torque, the three nuts are 125Nm, the one bolt is 90Nm.

As to install, when I do it I was planning on jacking the engine, removing the airbox, battery, and cowl, and I think you can get to it that way. Sounds like a lot but it's not too bad really. You'd want to remove the driver's side headlight as well. I might remove more than is necessary but I prefer to have room to work and all that stuff is fairly simple to remove/re-install.

If you find anything please post...I posted a video earlier in this thread a few posts down that showed a good bit of it. I've taken all that apart in the past so it doesn't look too bad, just legos.

 

[S_Manley]

Really looking forward to your review. Please share install tips as well once it's finished.

For torque, the three nuts are 125Nm, the one bolt is 90Nm.

As to install, when I do it I was planning on jacking the engine, removing the airbox, battery, and cowl, and I think you can get to it that way. Sounds like a lot but it's not too bad really. You'd want to remove the driver's side headlight as well. I might remove more than is necessary but I prefer to have room to work and all that stuff is fairly simple to remove/re-install.

If you find anything please post...I posted a video earlier in this thread a few posts down that showed a good bit of it. I've taken all that apart in the past so it doesn't look too bad, just legos.

Hi Jeff,

125nm? Wow, that's WAY more than the other side, which is at 80nm and 59nm. I have seen that figure before so it must be correct but damn!

Thanks! I have seen that video and my concern is the battery box/tray. In the video, there is a transition and the battery tray is simply removed. I don't know why they have to make it so complicated. I know the headlights are easy to take out if need be.

I will get in there this weekend and make it happen regardless!

 

[S_Manley]

Really looking forward to your review. Please share install tips as well once it's finished.

For torque, the three nuts are 125Nm, the one bolt is 90Nm.

As to install, when I do it I was planning on jacking the engine, removing the airbox, battery, and cowl, and I think you can get to it that way. Sounds like a lot but it's not too bad really. You'd want to remove the driver's side headlight as well. I might remove more than is necessary but I prefer to have room to work and all that stuff is fairly simple to remove/re-install.

If you find anything please post...I posted a video earlier in this thread a few posts down that showed a good bit of it. I've taken all that apart in the past so it doesn't look too bad, just legos.

Hi Jeff,

125nm? Wow, that's WAY more than the other side, which is at 80nm and 59nm. I have seen that figure before so it must be correct but damn!

Thanks! I have seen that video and my concern is the battery box/tray. In the video, there is a transition and the battery tray is simply removed. I don't know why they have to make it so complicated. I know the headlights are easy to take out if need be.

I will get in there this weekend and make it happen regardless!

 

[jeff]

Hi Jeff,

125nm? Wow, that's WAY more than the other side, which is at 80nm and 59nm. I have seen that figure before so it must be correct but damn!

Thanks! I have seen that video and my concern is the battery box/tray. In the video, there is a transition and the battery tray is simply removed. I don't know why they have to make it so complicated. I know the headlights are easy to take out if need be.

I will get in there this weekend and make it happen regardless!

Fords are surprisingly easy to take apart. My last 10 cars have been imports and I've done plenty of exhausts, intakes, short shifters, a turbo, this, that, been all around the car. When I started working on my Fiesta 2 years ago I was quite surprised at how they make it super easy to take stuff apart. Definitely way easier than a Subaru or an Acura. So that's why I don't think the battery box can be that complicated. There are tricks for different parts, for example, the first time I removed/installed the headlight it took me awhile but now I can do it in about 30 seconds. Same with the whole cowl area, maybe 3 minutes it's all off. PM me if you want tips on any of the surrounding areas and we'll do a phone call and discuss anything that might be helpful.

Good luck!

 

[S_Manley]

Fords are surprisingly easy to take apart. My last 10 cars have been imports and I've done plenty of exhausts, intakes, short shifters, a turbo, this, that, been all around the car. When I started working on my Fiesta 2 years ago I was quite surprised at how they make it super easy to take stuff apart. Definitely way easier than a Subaru or an Acura. So that's why I don't think the battery box can be that complicated. There are tricks for different parts, for example, the first time I removed/installed the headlight it took me awhile but now I can do it in about 30 seconds. Same with the whole cowl area, maybe 3 minutes it's all off. PM me if you want tips on any of the surrounding areas and we'll do a phone call and discuss anything that might be helpful.

Good luck!

I really appreciate that. I might take you up on that if I have issues. This is the first car that I have really worked on myself. I am someone who tries to know my limits and not exceed them and have to take it to someone to put it back together. I don't want to be that guy! The Fiesta isn't that difficult, I agree. I just try to be very careful.

For instance, I am getting a complete intercooler kit from Whoosh (You ROCK Ron!) and could try to do it myself. However, I am hesitant to try and take my front bumper off myself with all of its clips etc. I know if I break a bumper clip or something that it's most likely a new bumper, which isn't something I want to pay for. So, I am going to have Cobb Surgeline do it. Surgeline's reputation is outstanding and I trust them. It's $300 or so for install. It's worth it to me to have the piece of mind of knowing that it will be done correctly and if they break something, it's on them, not me haha!

The little stuff I have no problem doing myself. There are enough resources out there that you can usually get it done.

 

[draxxus131]

This is why I love intercoolers on the fiesta, super easy and no clips, just bolts!

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[Quisp]

The battery box is 3 screws on the bottom and 2 ecu connectors. A connector on the battery ground terminal. As Jeff said it's straight forward. As far as the mount access not sure.

 

[jeff]

Thanks Jeff - nice speaking to you as well
I have 1 street and 1 Black race in stock
I'd like to send them to you...if you don't like the Black for your install day I will send you a replacement street when they are back in stock. Powerflex can not keep us in stock.
I have open PO's for these...they sell like crazy.
Thanks again for the order and calling in.

-Ron

Good sir,

I just placed an order for the driver's side mount, street/yellow version. Please let me know when they'll be back in stock and able to ship.

I'm excited to add more and more of these Powerflex products. And thank you Ron for the discount.

 

[ron@whoosh]

Good sir,

I just placed an order for the driver's side mount, street/yellow version. Please let me know when they'll be back in stock and able to ship.

I'm excited to add more and more of these Powerflex products. And thank you Ron for the discount.

not in stock today "but" huge stocking order coming in a few days from now
you'll see it this week

thanks Jeff

 

[S_Manley]

Fords are surprisingly easy to take apart. My last 10 cars have been imports and I've done plenty of exhausts, intakes, short shifters, a turbo, this, that, been all around the car. When I started working on my Fiesta 2 years ago I was quite surprised at how they make it super easy to take stuff apart. Definitely way easier than a Subaru or an Acura. So that's why I don't think the battery box can be that complicated. There are tricks for different parts, for example, the first time I removed/installed the headlight it took me awhile but now I can do it in about 30 seconds. Same with the whole cowl area, maybe 3 minutes it's all off. PM me if you want tips on any of the surrounding areas and we'll do a phone call and discuss anything that might be helpful.

Good luck!

Hi Jeff,

I got the driver's side done this weekend. As I suspected, the most difficult part was completely removing the battery tray. You have to remove the induction hose to be able to really get to the ECU connectors (be VERY careful with them!). The only other thing that was slightly challenging was removing the plate covering the mount out from under the airbox. If you don't have another person to help, you will likely have to remove the airbox to remove the plate.

The driver's side mount was not in good shape. It wasn't making a ton of noise but there was a TON of movement in it. If you are doing the inserts, make sure to buy a brand-new OEM mount as it's likely your existing mount is in bad shape. Ford definitely cut cost by not designing a more robust mount for the ST. I would say a new OEM mount is almost a requirement at this point. They are so cheap to buy.

Make sure to use some sort of Lithium grease of CV-Joint grease when installing the insert. It will go in much more easily and will prevent squeaking later on down the road.

I am incredibly happy with the results. The passenger-side only made a big difference, but I could tell that there was a lot of movement on the driver's side. Now, there is next to no movement, even on hard shifts. The increase in vibration is minimal. As I mentioned before, the yellow street version should be more than enough for daily drivers.

A little side note: When you reconnect the battery, your auto-up driver window function will no longer work. You will have to reprogram it. It's very easy. The link is here: http://www.fiestast.org/forum/fiesta-st-electronics/1307-window-auto-up-not-working.html

I thought something had shorted until I used my trusty friend, Google. Thanks for your offer to help out!

Ron@Whoosh, thanks for sending these out so quickly!

 

[jeff]

Hi Jeff,

I got the driver's side done this weekend. As I suspected, the most difficult part was completely removing the battery tray. You have to remove the induction hose to be able to really get to the ECU connectors (be VERY careful with them!). The only other thing that was slightly challenging was removing the plate covering the mount out from under the airbox. If you don't have another person to help, you will likely have to remove the airbox to remove the plate.

The driver's side mount was not in good shape. It wasn't making a ton of noise but there was a TON of movement in it. If you are doing the inserts, make sure to buy a brand-new OEM mount as it's likely your existing mount is in bad shape. Ford definitely cut cost by not designing a more robust mount for the ST. I would say a new OEM mount is almost a requirement at this point. They are so cheap to buy.

Make sure to use some sort of Lithium grease of CV-Joint grease when installing the insert. It will go in much more easily and will prevent squeaking later on down the road.

I am incredibly happy with the results. The passenger-side only made a big difference, but I could tell that there was a lot of movement on the driver's side. Now, there is next to no movement, even on hard shifts. The increase in vibration is minimal. As I mentioned before, the yellow street version should be more than enough for daily drivers.

A little side note: When you reconnect the battery, your auto-up driver window function will no longer work. You will have to reprogram it. It's very easy. The link is here: http://www.fiestast.org/forum/fiesta-st-electronics/1307-window-auto-up-not-working.html

I thought something had shorted until I used my trusty friend, Google. Thanks for your offer to help out!

Ron@Whoosh, thanks for sending these out so quickly!

Cool thanks. I ordered one earlier, I was so happy driving around with the passengers side I decided to go ahead before I heard back from you. This is great news.

I've heard that window issue resolves itself after a day of being reconnected, but thanks for the tip.

Could you share 2 things -

1, the part number for the mount...

2, a quick step-by-step walk through, just very brief, the steps you took to accomplish this? That would save me or others from unnecessary disassembly of this or that.

Thanks again! I look forward to this mod! A great compromise for those who don't want solid mounts.

 

[TurboTechRacing]

Cool thanks. I ordered one earlier, I was so happy driving around with the passengers side I decided to go ahead before I heard back from you. This is great news.

I've heard that window issue resolves itself after a day of being reconnected, but thanks for the tip.

Could you share 2 things -

1, the part number for the mount...

2, a quick step-by-step walk through, just very brief, the steps you took to accomplish this? That would save me or others from unnecessary disassembly of this or that.

Thanks again! I look forward to this mod! A great compromise for those who don't want solid mounts.

Just FYI our TTR mounts we, and Whoosh now carries, are not solid, they are poly. However these inserts still retain the stock rubber which rots away.... replacing to a new stock mount won’t fix it, a couple years and your stock rubber will be bad again...