-
Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features
Welcome to the #1 Fiesta ST Forum and Fiesta ST community dedicated to Fiesta ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Fiesta ST Forum today!
PNWFiestaST 'Build' - Ideas and Suggestions
- Thread starter PNWFiestaST
- Start date
Thread Starter
#24
Install of the S280, Bravo Alpha i/c and CPE downpipe are complete. The tech who installed the i/c said it was a super tight fit but he was able to get everything back together and I'm happy with how all the plastics fit. No major gaps in the bumper alignment at all.
The only thing I'm not happy with is how the stock hot side S hose fits and how soft that thing is. It's not quite kinked but there's definitely some minor restriction going on there. Others have noted with the BA i/c you have to push the hose quite far onto the hard pipe or trim. I have a Whoosh S hose replacement on its way so hopefully that remedies that issue. Not sure how much effect it will have but I'm gonna hold off on doing any logs for Adam until I get that replaced and just roll with his base tune for a week or two to monitor things.
Question for those more experienced: my understanding with a new tune is that I should initially monitor the timing correction on all four cylinders to make sure there's nothing major going on. After that, I plan on monitoring boost pressure and AFR. Anything else I should watch just to make sure there are no major issues?
The only thing I'm not happy with is how the stock hot side S hose fits and how soft that thing is. It's not quite kinked but there's definitely some minor restriction going on there. Others have noted with the BA i/c you have to push the hose quite far onto the hard pipe or trim. I have a Whoosh S hose replacement on its way so hopefully that remedies that issue. Not sure how much effect it will have but I'm gonna hold off on doing any logs for Adam until I get that replaced and just roll with his base tune for a week or two to monitor things.
Question for those more experienced: my understanding with a new tune is that I should initially monitor the timing correction on all four cylinders to make sure there's nothing major going on. After that, I plan on monitoring boost pressure and AFR. Anything else I should watch just to make sure there are no major issues?
did you adjust your wastegate actuator for the base tune? You need to be seeing 14lbs on the base tune. Also Adam has instructions on what should be monitoring for datalogs.
The kit that came with the S280 works great you do not need to change out anything besides the stock wastegate and yes you will need compressed air to push the wastegate rod out of the actuator far enough to mount on the wastegate.
The kit that came with the S280 works great you do not need to change out anything besides the stock wastegate and yes you will need compressed air to push the wastegate rod out of the actuator far enough to mount on the wastegate.
Thread Starter
#26
Yep, I adjusted the preload before I installed it. I didn't need compressed air but it took some effort for sure 
I'm already set up for the list Adam provides for data logging. Until I get the hot side hose replaced though, I'm not going to record any logs. I just want to "monitor" or set up my gauges for things that might reflect a problem with the install. I was thinking that keeping an eye on boost and ignition correction would be a good place to start. Adam did state that I should see boost anywhere from 14-20 lbs and he provides reasons for seeing outside of that range. I guess I was just looking for other gauges to watch until I start logging.
I'm already set up for the list Adam provides for data logging. Until I get the hot side hose replaced though, I'm not going to record any logs. I just want to "monitor" or set up my gauges for things that might reflect a problem with the install. I was thinking that keeping an eye on boost and ignition correction would be a good place to start. Adam did state that I should see boost anywhere from 14-20 lbs and he provides reasons for seeing outside of that range. I guess I was just looking for other gauges to watch until I start logging.
Thread Starter
#27
Swapped the flimsy stock s hose with one from Whoosh today and also installed a Cobb rear motor mount and Whoosh short shift kit.
Car is hitting almost 19 lbs of boost on base tune so I think I got the preset on the actuator pretty close. Tomorrow I'll capture a few logs and get them sent to the tuner. Looking forward to seeing where it goes after a revision or two.
Car is hitting almost 19 lbs of boost on base tune so I think I got the preset on the actuator pretty close. Tomorrow I'll capture a few logs and get them sent to the tuner. Looking forward to seeing where it goes after a revision or two.
Thread Starter
#29
Yeah, I'm on a base tune. I'm not sure about airflow mass but WGDC Actual is zero across the whole rpm range I logged this morning. I'll try setting a gauge to that and watch it next time.
I'm new to logging but wanted to see what vdyno showed. After configuring the car's parameters, hp and torque are pretty low, hopefully due to the base tune. There's an issue with not being able to view boost and afr on the graph but they're chosen as options and of course being logged. Not sure what's going on there. If I knew somebody else who had a working version of vdyno I'd share with them to see what they came up with as far as numbers.
I'm new to logging but wanted to see what vdyno showed. After configuring the car's parameters, hp and torque are pretty low, hopefully due to the base tune. There's an issue with not being able to view boost and afr on the graph but they're chosen as options and of course being logged. Not sure what's going on there. If I knew somebody else who had a working version of vdyno I'd share with them to see what they came up with as far as numbers.
Attachments
Last edited:
my tuner has me logging airflowmass, id assume your tuner would want to see that as well on one of your tunes. just wanted to see what others are making for airflow, im getting 25 lbs/min right now on the first revision, at 21 psi peak.
yeah if your on a base map, and making 19 is psi with 0WGDC, then your just running spring pressure with some decent preload is seems like, unless you got a 17psi WG, i got the 14psi and adjusted preload, and was making 15.5-16 psi on the basemap, then 21 on the first "revision" which was just some added boost according to my tuner.
yeah if your on a base map, and making 19 is psi with 0WGDC, then your just running spring pressure with some decent preload is seems like, unless you got a 17psi WG, i got the 14psi and adjusted preload, and was making 15.5-16 psi on the basemap, then 21 on the first "revision" which was just some added boost according to my tuner.
Thread Starter
#31
Received my first revision yesterday and went for a drive today. I wasn't able to log due to heavy traffic but my max boost has decreased from right under 20 lbs on the base tune to under 18 on the revision. I reflashed the tune just to take that out of the equation and had similar results. It was about 20 degrees warmer today than during my base tune logs but I can't imagine that would make much of a difference. If anything, I think it'd be higher. Between tunes, I only drove the car a few miles at low rpms. Could I have developed a boost leak? Seems odd that a revision would result in less boost.
Another weird thing i noticed was that my mileage range increased to something like 525 miles which is obviously way overstated.
Edit: tonight I ran pulls on both the base and revised tunes. Max boost pressure is around 18. I read somewhere that when flashing a new tune it takes the ecu a while to adjust OAR sometimes. OAR learned value is - -1 throughout the entire log. I guess it's gonna be time spent checking hoses and clamps.
Another weird thing i noticed was that my mileage range increased to something like 525 miles which is obviously way overstated.
Edit: tonight I ran pulls on both the base and revised tunes. Max boost pressure is around 18. I read somewhere that when flashing a new tune it takes the ecu a while to adjust OAR sometimes. OAR learned value is - -1 throughout the entire log. I guess it's gonna be time spent checking hoses and clamps.
Last edited:
Naw i dont think you have a boost leak. Ive seen my boost on the base map fluctuate on “boost spikes” which is usually ambient air dependent, load dependent and road condition. And yeah the ecu will always revert back to stock “miles till empty” until it learns how much the injectors are flowing said amount of fuel on the new tune. That will happen with every revision, as your swapping a new map, albeit a revised version of it.
Thread Starter
#33
Alright, I'll grab a few logs and get them sent to the tuner. I just didn't want to waste his time and get an email back saying I've got a leak. He didn't say what he expected from the first revision and I could be making assumptions. I scheduled a shop visit for a smoke test in a couple weeks just in case.
Thread Starter
#34
Well, I am a couple revisions deep and watched the WGDC increase each time with no change in boost. I had a smoke test performed just to rule out boost leaks and a few minor leaks were resolved. In the meantime I sent the most recent logs to the tuner and he suggested that the boost control solenoid lines were routed incorrectly 😔.
I dug up some photos from the forum and watched a portion of the tuner's install video which show the correct routing so I'll be taking a look later today to confirm.
If I can get to the lines myself fairly easily I'll give it a shot. If not, it's going back to the shop that did the install.
I dug up some photos from the forum and watched a portion of the tuner's install video which show the correct routing so I'll be taking a look later today to confirm.
If I can get to the lines myself fairly easily I'll give it a shot. If not, it's going back to the shop that did the install.
Last edited:
Thread Starter
#36
I was hoping that the lines were connected incorrectly but I confirmed this morning that they're fine. Damn. Hoping it was simple.
My next guess is that the solenoid is bad. I've read that others have had to replace theirs so I might order one while I continue to troubleshoot.
All this is new to me so I'm open to other ideas. The car's making boost basically up to spring pressure and increasing wgdc isn't having an effect. I might also double check that it's fully plugged in.
Side note: I currently have a P0035 code. On my setup I have the blow off valve adapter that came with the s280 kit and it's blocked off as I'm running a turbosmart vee port bov off the symposer port.
My next guess is that the solenoid is bad. I've read that others have had to replace theirs so I might order one while I continue to troubleshoot.
All this is new to me so I'm open to other ideas. The car's making boost basically up to spring pressure and increasing wgdc isn't having an effect. I might also double check that it's fully plugged in.
Side note: I currently have a P0035 code. On my setup I have the blow off valve adapter that came with the s280 kit and it's blocked off as I'm running a turbosmart vee port bov off the symposer port.
Have you verified that the WG arm is actually moving when the system is pressurized? The P0035 is because you aren’t utilizing an OE style electronic BPV, your tuner should be able to turn off that CEL. You could remove the solenoid and test it with a 12v source to verify it’s working, you should hear it clicking when putting power to it
Thread Starter
#38
Well, I crawled under the car today and confirmed the hose routing is correct. Side port from the solenoid goes to the wastegate actuator. Port on same end goes to my BOV adapter and the port on the other end goes to the brass nipple on the outlet side of the turbo.
Since I already have a new solenoid I'm going to have it replaced first and go from there. Car only makes boost up to spring pressure (19 lbs) so I'm not understanding why I'd want to confirm the actuator arm is moving under pressure? Still new at all this so I'm open to being schooled. To me, it seems like if the solenoid hosing is routed correctly and the car's not responding to increased wgdc, then either the solenoid isn't venting pressure or it's not getting a signal period.
Since I already have a new solenoid I'm going to have it replaced first and go from there. Car only makes boost up to spring pressure (19 lbs) so I'm not understanding why I'd want to confirm the actuator arm is moving under pressure? Still new at all this so I'm open to being schooled. To me, it seems like if the solenoid hosing is routed correctly and the car's not responding to increased wgdc, then either the solenoid isn't venting pressure or it's not getting a signal period.
Have to be careful doing this, but you could unplug the solenoid from the WGA and see what boost does. If you get more, you know there's something in the solenoid happening. If it doesn't, you know the WGA is preloaded incorrectly or the IWG itself isn't seated all the way. I'm experiencing a somewhat similar issue that I'm spooling much too late, probably because my IWG is cracking open too early.
Again if you do unplug the WGA, be careful and monitor boost to make sure you're not making a grenade out of your engine.
Again if you do unplug the WGA, be careful and monitor boost to make sure you're not making a grenade out of your engine.
