Peron Four Port Aux Fuel System

[TyphoonFiST]

I understand you didn't make it but your defending it as if you did.

Plastic line in a low temp area like the tank is one thing, but in an extremely hot engine bay like the FiST's I see this being a problem due to all the heat cycling and the plastic potentially fatiguing.


Yet again I'm just hating though.

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They ran a Nylon line as a replacement near my m90 supercharger on my Bonneville after an accident.....that MOFO Got hot after running a smaller pulley and short stack intercooler. Never had an issue.

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[bluthdr]

+1 to that I was wondering all this miss information about it missing a bolt with the stratified kit was coming from. For the extra couple hundred bucks I'll stick to the stratified kit. It comes ready to go with with braided lines and AN hardware. No janky plastic lines to worry about.

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I as well went with the stratified kit since it comes complete.Having worked with alex before on tuning my gtx2863R turbo focus st with 4 port aux helped in my decision for the fiesta st setup.

 

[bluthdr]

Just to be clear. There is at least one forum member here that I have communicated with that has lost use of the lower attach point for the alternator. One person on Facebook that installed the Stratified four port system owns a auto repair shop ran into problems also with the lower attach point. Ron [MENTION=337]whoosh[/MENTION] has stated that he's heard from at least three of his customers regarding the alternator issue as well. Could this be a case of operator error? Could be, but I'm not one to spend $1450.00 and find out that in my case there is a problem, when there is a cheaper alternative.

Yeah, the Peron comes with a cheaper fuel hose, but it's not too much more to get braided hose and fittings to make the kit more refined. In my post, I stated that I spent $50.00 for the plumbing that I wanted. The price is more like $30.00. Summit now sells the hose by the foot, at the time I placed my order, it came in three foot lengths minimum.

The lower attach point with that alternator bolt is a pesky dude getting it to go in,but having alot of patience with it is key.
I ended up not having the top 2 bolts attached up so i could move the alternator around some getting it to line up with that lower bolt attach point,once i had the lower bolt in the top 2 were a piece of cake putting in.I have had the stratified 4 port on the fiesta st since august with numerous wot datalog runs and all is good with my bolts on the alternator.

 

[ron@whoosh]

Here is an example of Peron using their 4-port kit on a customers Fiesta
The turbo installed is the Peron GTX2860R
Peron has easily made over 400whp with their turbo kit and aux fuel set up but have run into reliability issues on the stock block so they have designed a billet deck insert as well to increase durability.

 

[koozy]

This is the first Peron product I’m less impressed with, considering their other products for the platform are top notch. That’s just my opinion.

Also, there’s no need to put the controller in the cabin and having to potentially extend the harness even longer than it already is. It can remain hidden and free from water under the hood without an additional box that would only eat up space.

My aux fuel and controller are in this photo, but the controller is hidden, not on top of the fuse box where most have it.

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[TyphoonFiST]

This is the first Peron product I’m less impressed with, considering their other products for the platform are top notch. That’s just my opinion.

Also, there’s no need to put the controller in the cabin and having to potentially extend the harness even longer than it already is. It can remain hidden and free from water under the hood without an additional box that would only eat up space.

My aux fuel and controller are in this photo, but the controller is hidden, not on top of the fuse box where most have it.

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Yours must be the Throttle body injector I take it? If so what are your thoughts on this setup? Have you been able to peep any of the valves to see if they are getting fuel adequately to also clean them?

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[pwnall1337]

Why are we in here bashing the stratified system? As stated in the facebook conversation from Alex those people installed the fuel system incorrectly. Just because someone owns a shop, doesn't mean they perform top quality work. I had a VW jetta in the shop when I was 16 and the trans fell out 5 miles later after I picked it up because the shop owner cross threaded the bolt into the trans housing then tried to re use the old thread with loctite and considered it done.

I have the stratified system on my car and I can assure you it's top notch quality and performs amazing when installed correctly. Alex would not put his name or business on a low quality product which is why stratified has been leading the ecoboost game since the beginning and venturing off into other markets. I had thought we settled this on facebook already, but I'll include the conversation here. I am not one to bash or attack another company's products, however when I did see the nortech/peron rail one thing that really bothered me was the welded fitting on the end of the rail. Essentially if you damage that fitting (aluminum is a soft metal) the whole rail is toast. This is not bashing their product, this is just stating facts.

 

[Alex@Stratified]

To prevent any confusion I have updated our instructions in a number of ways including the alternator re-installation:

http://www.stratifiedauto.com/Strat...x Fuel System Installation and User Guide.pdf

On page 21 of the guide it now states to clearly use all 3 mounting bolts for the alternator and the best way to go about putting them back in. My apologies for this confusion.

 

[ron@whoosh]

Why are we in here bashing the stratified system? As stated in the facebook conversation from Alex those people installed the fuel system incorrectly. Just because someone owns a shop, doesn't mean they perform top quality work. I had a VW jetta in the shop when I was 16 and the trans fell out 5 miles later after I picked it up because the shop owner cross threaded the bolt into the trans housing then tried to re use the old thread with loctite and considered it done.

I have the stratified system on my car and I can assure you it's top notch quality and performs amazing when installed correctly. Alex would not put his name or business on a low quality product which is why stratified has been leading the ecoboost game since the beginning and venturing off into other markets. I had thought we settled this on facebook already, but I'll include the conversation here. I am not one to bash or attack another companies products, however when I did see the nortech/peron rail one thing that really bothered me was the welded fitting on the end of the rail. Essentially if you damage that fitting (aluminum is a soft metal) the whole rail is toast. This is not bashing their product, this is just stating facts.


View attachment 18835

I think it was very clear that there were Stratified customers installing the kit incorrectly reporting the issues to me which is why the comments were made. The instructions were not clear.
Alex also cleared this up on Facebook which was mentioned here as well. Maybe you can't read?

The only bashing is the pathetic attempt of your post advertising Stratified parts in a Peron install thread.

 

[ron@whoosh]

while Tim is posting Facebook comments on the forums here is one for everyone that considering purchasing all of his Pumaspeed fuel upgrades
I asked him why not test the parts he sells on his site since he has said he tests everything....LOL

 

[Ford ST]

while Tim is posting Facebook comments on the forums here is one for everyone that considering purchasing all of his Pumaspeed fuel upgrades
I asked him why not test the parts he sells on his site since he has said he tests everything....LOL

Ron you need to grow up. The way you conduct yourself sometimes is a huge turn off and makes me not want to do business with you. A class on business professionalism would do you good. You will write back with some smart-ass comment but everything you sell on your site that I'm interested in I can get somewhere else without the unnecessary attitude. I don't like people who are pushy you are pushy whether you believe it or not.

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[TyphoonFiST]

The battle has begun...

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[pwnall1337]

while Tim is posting Facebook comments on the forums here is one for everyone that considering purchasing all of his Pumaspeed fuel upgrades
I asked him why not test the parts he sells on his site since he has said he tests everything....LOL

Waiting for that screen shot where I said I test "everything". I'll paypal you $10 if you can.

 

[slopoke]

I started installing the Peron aux fuel system. I ran into problems when reinstalling the alternator. If I can't finger thread the bolts in, somethings not right. To address this issue I did the following. You should alter the alternator bolt holes. Since you’ve now tilted the alternator forward. The upper radius of the bolt holes have moved down and the rear lower radius of the bolt holes has moved up on the alternator itself.

What I did to fix this was to use a file or die grinder with a cylindrical rotary file, I used a die grinder. Grind the upper radius of the fwd side bolt holes, do all four holes. Grind the lower radius of the aft side of the bolt oles. Don’t remove too much material. I took about a 1/16” off. I opened the lower side hole a little bit too, just so you get a little bit of play to work with. My lower bolt was a little tight to hand thread, a little grease on the threads does wonders. After doing the hole modifications, it went in fine.

The drawing shows you what I mean.






Instead of using Scotch lock or Positap connector to attach the controller wires to the four ignitor wires. I don't like the idea that these can nick the strands that make up the wire and weaken it. I stripped the insulation off of the wires using a soldering pen with a Xacto knife attachment. This way, you don't damage the individual strands that make up the wire. I then wrapped the wire that goes to the controller around the exposed ignitor wire and soldered them. I did the same with the MAP sensor wire too.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

I started installing the Peron aux fuel system. I ran into problems when reinstalling the alternator. If I can't finger thread the bolts in, somethings not right. To address this issue I did the following. You should alter the alternator mount holes. Since you’ve now tilted the alternator forward. The upper radius of the mounts have moved down and the rear lower radius of the holes has moved up.

What I did to fix this was to use a file or die grinder with a cylindrical rotary file, I used a die grinder. Grind the upper radius of the fwd side mount holes, do all four holes. Grind the lower radius of the aft side of the mount holes. Don’t remove too much material. I took about a 1/16” off. I opened the lower side hole a little bit too, just so you get a little bit of play to work with. My lower bolt was a little tight to hand thread, a little grease on the threads does wonders. After doing the hole modifications, it went in fine.

The drawing shows you what I mean.

View attachment 18868

Instead of using Scotch lock or Positap connector to attach the controller wires to the four ignitor wires. I don't like the idea that these can nick the strands that make up the wire and weaken it. I stripped the insulation off of the wires using a soldering pen with a Xacto knife attachment. This way, you don't damage the individual strands that make up the wire. I then wrapped the wire that goes to the controller around the exposed ignitor wire and soldered them. I did the same with the MAP sensor wire too.

They do make Heat shrink with solder in it now that all you do is put the wires in and heat it up...it melts the Solder and seals the heat shrink! Works awesome! Not too spendy either...I got tired of soldering and heat shrinking stuff. There is a definite issue with having to modify the Holes...This is or was the end all be all of Auxiliary fuel systems that I was lead to believe that there was no need for modifying anything. Maybe there is some underlying issue here we are not seeing though....Decent write up! Good luck!

 

[slopoke]

They do make Heat shrink with solder in it now that all you do is put the wires in and heat it up...it melts the Solder and seals the heat shrink! Works awesome! Not too spendy either...I got tired of soldering and heat shrinking stuff. There is a definite issue with having to modify the Holes...This is or was the end all be all of Auxiliary fuel systems that I was lead to believe that there was no need for modifying anything. Maybe there is some underlying issue here we are not seeing though....Decent write up! Good luck!

I really wanted to use heat shrink, but since I did not cut any wires, no way to install the heat shrink. Had to make due with electricians tape.

As far as having to modify things to make this or any intake manifold spacer based kit goes. I think all of them require some mods to install correctly. The valve cover has to have a tab cut off like the Stratified kit to allow an injector to be clocked correctly. A lower mount ear on the manifold needs to be shaved to allow room to clear a hose. The alternator in most cases has to have the holes relieved to allow the bolts to go in by hand. The only way to address this issue is to have a mount that moves the lower alternator bolt location to move forward the same distance as the top. Thereby keeping the upper bolt holes parallel to the threaded holes.

I guess some might have just jammed the bolts in and cranked on them with a ratchet. To me this is not good, because the threads might have been damaged, but if the alternator ever has to come out, the threads might come out when removing the bolts and boy that will definitely be an OH S**T moment. Or the alternator holes were just a bit larger and allowed enough wiggle room for the bolts to go in.

 

[Se7eN]

I really wanted to use heat shrink, but since I did not cut any wires, no way to install the heat shrink. Had to make due with electricians tape.

As far as having to modify things to make this or any intake manifold spacer based kit goes. I think all of them require some mods to install correctly. The valve cover has to have a tab cut off like the Stratified kit to allow an injector to be clocked correctly. A lower mount ear on the manifold needs to be shaved to allow room to clear a hose. The alternator in most cases has to have the holes relieved to allow the bolts to go in by hand. The only way to address this issue is to have a mount that moves the lower alternator bolt location to move forward the same distance as the top. Thereby keeping the upper bolt holes parallel to the threaded holes.

I guess some might have just jammed the bolts in and cranked on them with a ratchet. To me this is not good, because the threads might have been damaged, but if the alternator ever has to come out, the threads might come out when removing the bolts and boy that will definitely be an OH S**T moment. Or the alternator holes were just a bit larger and allowed enough wiggle room for the bolts to go in.

very good read, and good to know since I ordered the Peron Kit about a week ago when Whoosh posted up the injectors and controller with the existing kit. Still waiting for the delivery though.

 

[JDG]

Any updates with the performance of the Peron Aux fuel rail?


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[slopoke]

Any updates with the performance of the Peron Aux fuel rail?


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https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/19415-My-Revo-S242-Turbo-on-E40-and-With-4-Port-Aux-Fuel

 

[Se7eN]

Had mine installed works great, didn't install it myself due to time constraints. Was able to run better fuel E40 and gained about 30-40whp and wtq. The kit is still capable of a lot more if I had a GTX2860 Gen 2 or something, but I am very happy.