Oil Changes

[rcl4668]

So after perusing the board and contacting my local dealer, I'm planning on doing a preventative oil change on my Fiesta at approximately 3,000 km or 1,800 miles. My dealer informed me that the factory fill oil is the Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend and that his service department recommended sticking with that blend at least initially for the firts 5,000 miles. I will do the preventative oil change using the synthetic blend and then most likely switch over to the Motorcraft full synthetic after 5,000 miles.

Basic question, does anyone have a good step-by-step guide for changing the oil and filter in the ST? I have a lift in my garage and access to a decent set of tools so hopefully that will help. Any special tools required or that would be helpful? Also, from the ST owner's manual supplement it looks like I will only need 4.3 quarts or five bottles to do the job, including pre-oiling the filter.

Thanks in advance for any guidance or tips.

/Rich

 

[Perry]

Lift vehicle. Remove oil fill cap. Place where you can find it later. Find drain plug. Position old newspapers or impermeable oil catch sheet(s) under oil pan and filter area. Position pan of adequate size under drain plug, taking into account angle at which oil will pour from plug hole. Remove drain plug with appropriate wrench. Remove oil plug from used oil pan into which it fell when you removed it. Wipe oil from face. Place oil plug with oil fill cap. Let all old oil drain into pan. Locate filter. Remove same. Dispose of used oil and filter. Wipe clean fitting/seating areas at point of installation of filter and plug. Replace plug, with new gasket if necessary. Oil and place new filter. Tighten each with appropriate forces, being careful not to over-tighten. Check manual for recommendations if necessary. Fill engine with appropriate amount of appropriate oil. Replace oil fill cap. Wipe hands clean. Start car, let it run for a couple minutes. Check for leaks. Stop car. Wipe hands clean. Return vehicle to floor/ground. Check oil level. Top off oil if necessary. Wipe hands. Go have beer. While sitting on sofa watching game, recall that hood is still raised on car. Go return hood to normal driving position. Check to make sure neither wife nor neighbor saw that. Go have second beer.

 

[Perry]

How Edmunds.com describes the process.

 

[rcl4668]

Perry --

Thank you! Just some follow up questions: What size wrench do you use for the removal and tightening of the drain plug? What kind of oil filter wrench do you use to remove the filter? Does the ST require that the filter and drain plug be tightened to certain torque specs or is it just hand tighten the filter and the drain plug (without overtightening of course)? When I changed oil on my Miata, I would take a little bit of oil with a gloved finger and lightly lubricate the rubber seal/gasket on the oil filter before tightening. Same for the ST? Also, as in the Miata, I would put all but the last quart of oil in, run the engine for 30 secs and then turn off the engine, wait 30 secs and check the oil level, adding enough oil with the last quart until up to the full mark. Again, same for the ST? Thanks!

 

[Perry]

I've yet to change the oil in my FiST--got the first oil change free from dealer, and haven't yet gotten to next. Thus, I'm not sure of the size wrench needed for the ST. I've got an old strap-type filter wrench that I think will work okay for the FiST, but won't know until I get under there and try it.

With regards to torque, I've never used a torque wrench or similar, instead just getting it (the drain plug) as tight as I can conveniently go with a standard wrench. For the filter, it's about a two-thirds-turn past where it starts to feel tight by hand. I never use a wrench tightening a filter. And when I say "oil the filter", I mean what you describe--moisten the gasket with a bit of fresh oil all around.

Note that the procedure described on Edmunds also does the add-all-but-the-last-quart thing with the oil, topping off as you describe. I've generally just added the prescribed amount, estimating the 0.7 quarts, the 0.3 quarts, etc. that might be called for, from a single quart container, and have ended up pretty much where I want to be. Never have I had to add significant amounts, maybe a third of a quart at most.

This is the plan I intend to follow with my FiST.

Now, this all said, there are those lurking around these parts that may have something useful to add to all this, such as pelotonracer2, whose experience with this sort of thing and performance engines dwarfs mine. Certainly, if pel adds or corrects something I've said, I'd listen.

 

[westcoaST]

13 mm for the oil drain plug. For the filter, I'd recommend using a 3 prong oil filter wrench since they must hire gorillas at Ford to put on the OEM filter. This is what I got at Pep Boys.

It has a 1/2" drive end adapter that is removable to reveal a 3/8" drive. I used a ratcheting breaker bar from Harbor Freight to get the oil filter off. Put a rubber band around the jaws to keep them tightly secured against the filter. The filter screws on in the horizontal position, and there are hoses from the oil-to-radiator water heat exchanger on either side of the filter, so space is limited. This makes filling the oil filter difficult. Remember to oil down the oil filter gasket to prevent the difficulty in removing the oil filter, the next time. While you are down there, tighten your boost clamps. Takes a 7mm socket and a 7mm wrench. Use a ratcheting wrench, box end, to make life easier for the clamps at the heat exchanger.

If you want to get real fancy, get a quikvalve F106 or F106N with an extension adapter ADP-106. This prevents you from having to ever remove the oil drain plug again. I used Rhino ramps which angles the engine nicely, so you get all of the oil out of the pan.

I got my 5 qt motorcraft oil jug and filter at Walmarts for about $24.00.

 

[rodmoe]

Nice look'n wrench Westy. I'll have to look for one as I used my metal band/strap wrench and it did work ok it was a tight fit up there tween the oil cooler lines but again as some have mentioned first thing is to turn the one nasty hose clamp about 180 deg so you save skin off your hand as the filter loosens and rotates all good stuff indeed

 

[scottiemac]

Re: filling the filter before you install it - when I changed mine I filled the filter up to the top of the threads and let it sit for a few minutes to absorb into the media. I had no issue when I screwed it on.
I think next time I'll probably add a bit more until I get to the point where a bit runs out when it is in the horizontal position.
For the filter wrench I used a standard band type but I've modified it a bit. I put some double sided tape around the inside of the band then stuck some plumbers sand cloth strips to the tape. Gives some extra grip for those difficult to remove filters.

 

[westcoaST]

Re: filling the filter before you install it - when I changed mine I filled the filter up to the top of the threads and let it sit for a few minutes to absorb into the media. I had no issue when I screwed it on.
I think next time I'll probably add a bit more until I get to the point where a bit runs out when it is in the horizontal position.
For the filter wrench I used a standard band type but I've modified it a bit. I put some double sided tape around the inside of the band then stuck some plumbers sand cloth strips to the tape. Gives some extra grip for those difficult to remove filters.

That's what I did, pour enough so that it seeps out in the horizontal position, and it does spill out a little when installing it. I forgot to add that I use a large drip pan to prevent messes on my floor. I also have a double wide oil pan, since the oil streams out toward the back. With the quikvalve, I can go back to using the hose and oil container with side hole.

 

[rcl4668]

Fantastic feedback everyone. Thank you.

/Rich