Oil change intervals and other related tips?

[danbfree]

The only thing I can find in the owners manual or the ST supplements either shows a 10,000 mile OCI... This seems twice as long as it should be for DI turbo motor... Also, any issues using aftermarket oil filters or is pretty much anything other than super cheap or Fram orange OK to use? Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

[Capri to ST]

I'm going to change my oil every 5K miles, or one year, whichever comes first. I'll be driving it only about 5K miles a year, so once a year should work for me. 10K OCI's seem long to me,and I think oil changes are cheap insurance. I believe the manual says 10K but no more than a year. I would use a high-quality full-synthetic in the recommended viscosity.
A mechanic friend told me the stock Motorcraft filters are good, so I'm using them.

 

[danbfree]

I'm going to change my oil every 5K miles, or one year, whichever comes first. I'll be driving it only about 5K miles a year, so once a year should work for me. 10K OCI's seem long to me,and I think oil changes are cheap insurance. I believe the manual says 10K but no more than a year. I would use a high-quality full-synthetic in the recommended viscosity.
A mechanic friend told me the stock Motorcraft filters are good, so I'm using them.

Thanks, some good solid advice I was looking for!

 

[Capri to ST]

Thanks, some good solid advice I was looking for!

You're welcome, I'm very interested in car maintenance, and would rather over-maintain than under, especially when something as cheap as an oil change is concerned.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Second to what Capri to ST stated above, and yes the Motorcraft filters are very good, as are any of the other PREMIUM filters out there (Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Wix/NAPA Gold {there are some questions as to the lower efficiency of their higher cost 'Platinum' filters}, Amsoil EaO, etc.).

The ONLY Fram oil filter I would ever trust to put on MY car (and I DO use them!) are their 'Ultra' models, on the shelf at Wal Mart for ~$8.97 or so.

 

[Sprinkle_Star]

Since our FiSTs have a turbocharger, I always use full synthetic oil. Full synthetic maintains its molecular integrity over a longer period than conventional oil does, and that's especially important for how much more heat it will need to withstand when compared to a naturally aspirated engine.

Since turbocharged engines are comparably more demanding than naturally aspirated engines, I personally won't wait any longer than 5,000 miles per interval. I think every 3,000 to 5,000 is a prudent range for our cars.

Now, if this were a naturally aspirated engine, I'd be inclined to decrease the maintenance interval to every 5,000 to 7,000 miles, assuming I'm using full synthetic.

I daily drive my FiST, so I change the oil once per season since I drive 38 miles per day on average.

As for oil filters, I invariably choose Motorcraft since that's what's recommended in the manual.

 

[STjake]

I’m still stuck in the Stone Age doing 3k mile oil changes. Oh well, it helps me sleep at night with as aggressively as I drive and how long I plan to own this car.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I’m still stuck in the Stone Age doing 3k mile oil changes. Oh well, it helps me sleep at night with as aggressively as I drive and how long I plan to own this car.

Yes, of course most of the bitogerz would call that "wasteful and unnecessary", but then it seems that most of the members there do NOT have to deal with a small, overworked snail, and a DI system.

"Wasteful" or not, short OCIs ARE 'cheap insurance' as is said so often.

 

[danbfree]

Seriously, with turbo and DI you get oil thinning occurring, there is no reason not to use full synthetic, I'd even go so far as to use ACEA A3 rated oil... Now, ACEA is indeed a Euro maker standard, but my Kia 1.6T called for ACEA A5, of which only Pennzoil Ultra Platinum was reasonable priced and common but anyway, anything fully synthetic and known brand should be fine, but you could prob get away with 6,000-7,500 mile changes with Mobile 1 Extended performance, but might as well go with regular Pennzoil Platinum and every 5,000 as it's very reasonably priced when you do it yourself.

 

[danbfree]

I’m still stuck in the Stone Age doing 3k mile oil changes. Oh well, it helps me sleep at night with as aggressively as I drive and how long I plan to own this car.

I plan on owning it a long time too, but if it still only calls for every 10k and you are using full synthetic, probably 5k is MORE than often enough... but I'm kind of a hippie that doesn't like to have to dispose of more oil than really needed, so to each their own... Also, if you are driving it very short distances then your oil would get dirtier much faster too, but if it runs 20 plus minutes every time I cold start it, like mine, then I know it's getting up to full temp and burning off impurities too.

 

[30packdlg]

I’ve done roughly every 5,000 just went over 30,000 on my 2016. I just use the stock recommendation oil and filter. Probably try a synthetic this summer idk motorcraft seems to be fine. Love how oil changes are so easy in this car

 

[danbfree]

I’ve done roughly every 5,000 just went over 30,000 on my 2016. I just use the stock recommendation oil and filter. Probably try a synthetic this summer idk motorcraft seems to be fine. Love how oil changes are so easy in this car

Motorcraft has full synthetic, I literally couldn't imagine using anything less than full synthetic on a turbo car, but it seems like on this car no one makes a big deal of it at all... Anyway thanks for all the advice everyone, arrive like this engine isn't as picky as my last car with a very similar motor.

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[hispirish]

I am using Amsoil Signature oil, which seems to be the best NOACK oil for DI engines that I have been able to read about. I have always shied away from Amsoil because I felt that it is a hipster oil that has a cult-like following, but everything I have read seems to find that this is the best for turbo DI engines.

With that being said, I have 5600 miles on my car right now. I changed the oil the first time at a bit over 1000 miles with this Amsoil, and Motorcraft filter. I will be sending off an oil sample for analysis in the next week or so to see how the engine and oil are doing. If it looks good, then I will check it again at 8500, then 11k at which time i'll change the oil regardless of the result of the test.

I will post results here.

 

[DaveG99]

Isnt the 10k mile oil change thing a European way of doing things. I figured they go longer over there because oil and gas is 3 times as much as we pay for it around here.

I use only synthetic oil and I change my oil about every 5-6k miles. The newer synthetics are really good and last a lot longer than 3k miles.

 

[hispirish]

Isnt the 10k mile oil change thing a European way of doing things. I figured they go longer over there because oil and gas is 3 times as much as we pay for it around here.

I use only synthetic oil and I change my oil about every 5-6k miles. The newer synthetics are really good and last a lot longer than 3k miles.

Lots of new vehicles call for 10k oil changes, not just European ones. My 2012 Prius was that way, as is our 2017 Tacoma.

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[TomCat]

The car came from the factory with syn-blend oil & that's what the dealership uses for oil changes, so FoMoCo must figure a blend is sufficient for lubrication and to maintain warranty.
That said, after my second free oil change this spring, I'll be doing my own changes & use full synthetic with a premium filter changed annually (I put less than 5k a year on the car).

 

[M-Sport fan]

I am using Amsoil Signature oil, which seems to be the best NOACK oil for DI engines that I have been able to read about. I have always shied away from Amsoil because I felt that it is a hipster oil that has a cult-like following, but everything I have read seems to find that this is the best for turbo DI engines.

With that being said, I have 5600 miles on my car right now. I changed the oil the first time at a bit over 1000 miles with this Amsoil, and Motorcraft filter. I will be sending off an oil sample for analysis in the next week or so to see how the engine and oil are doing. If it looks good, then I will check it again at 8500, then 11k at which time i'll change the oil regardless of the result of the test.

I will post results here.

I am currently using their 5W-20 Signature Series, but it is the older formulation, which they did not claim helps prevent LSPI/intake valve deposits on TGDI engines, like they DO for the latest formulation.

Is it the newest, supposedly updated formulation in your sump?

LOL on the 'cult status' thing, but yeah, it sometimes seems that way.

As far as it being a 'hipster' oil choice; MANY on bitog swear by A.J. Amatuzio's products, and they (collectively, as a bunch) are about as far from being 'hipsters' as could possibly be, given how far right wingnutter most of them prove themselves to be on that site.

 

[Bizzareo]

Whatever you do. Do not use FRAM or FRAM rebranded (castrol for instance) filters. They are made from paper. We lost an entire motor on a salt flats racer, and the only things that changed were the oil (we switched to royal purple) and filter (it was torn to shreds).

Napa gold filters are metal based, same with K/N and a few other brands.

I've been doing it ~every 5000km, which is probably overkill.

Other tips. Keep your spare tire full. Keep some extra oil, coolant/water, and a roadside assistance kit available. AAA/CAA is your friend.

 

[danbfree]

Whatever you do. Do not use FRAM or FRAM rebranded (castrol for instance) filters. They are made from paper. We lost an entire motor on a salt flats racer, and the only things that changed were the oil (we switched to royal purple) and filter (it was torn to shreds).

Napa gold filters are metal based, same with K/N and a few other brands.

I've been doing it ~every 5000km, which is probably overkill.

Other tips. Keep your spare tire full. Keep some extra oil, coolant/water, and a roadside assistance kit available. AAA/CAA is your friend.

Thanks for the tips! I know to avoid all but the Ultra Fram, but will go for probably Motorcraft anyway... But ya, my last car didn't even have a spare just a lousy fix a flat, I know how these 40 series tires are!

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[M-Sport fan]

^^^Yes the Fram Ultra has a strong, metal wire backed synthetic media, a silicone anti-drain back valve, metal end caps, and I believe a metal center tube, just like all of the other 'premium' oil filters out there.