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Oil catch can/Separator

dyn085

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If it was spontaneous and didn't 'build' to that number then I wouldn't worry as it was probably just a false reading. If it happened repeatedly-even in small amounts-I would be concerned, but out sounds more like a fluke than anything else based on the information you've given.
 


stuntdoogie

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I only get neg ign cyl corr reading if I step on it under 3k rpm which I try not to do.
 


dyn085

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I only get neg ign cyl corr reading if I step on it under 3k rpm which I try not to do.
If it's happening that often then you should probably let Randy know. I boost regularly well below 3k with no negative corrections to speak of. I do have better fuel, but that's the whole point of custom tuning-to make the best and safest power with the fuel you have available.
 


stuntdoogie

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If it's happening that often then you should probably let Randy know. I boost regularly well below 3k with no negative corrections to speak of. I do have better fuel, but that's the whole point of custom tuning-to make the best and safest power with the fuel you have available.
It does it with cobb ots also. I just got -1.50 fromt wot. Didnt pay attention to what gear or rpm tho.
 


dyn085

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It does it with cobb ots also. I just got -1.50 fromt wot. Didnt pay attention to what gear or rpm tho.
Anytime you're logging for comparison purposes, try to null out as many variables as possible. Use the same road, same gear, start from roughly the same rpm, etc. The more variables you can minimize, the more likely the problem can be isolated and solved. Make sure you've stabilized your car at operating temperatures for a few minutes before you start.

My FoST would regularly log negative corrections on the OTS tune, but those platforms have ridiculously sensitive knock sensors so it's not exactly apples-apples.

If you're getting that much correction that often, the first two things I would personally check into is the fuel and spark plug gap-especially if you weren't having the problem previously on the custom tune. Maybe you had a bad tank of gas, maybe you've put a lot of miles on your car since it was tuned, maybe you only recently started paying attention to ign corrections.

It could be a sudden change in excessive blow-by, and that could be what's affecting your overall octane. While that's a separate problem, a catch-can can help that in the fact that it can assist in restoring the octane that your engine 'sees'. It's literally the only reason I ever recommend a catch-can. With that being said, if you're custom tuned then you shouldn't be having to worry about restoring your octane because you would already be tuned based on what your engine sees.
 


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Emptied by OCC today. 1oz after 3,000 miles. 1st time it was milky with water and fuel in it. This time just oil and no fuel smell.

 


Chris G

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If you get a Mishimoto oil catch can, get the one with the baffle and inlet filter. This one is made for boost and can hold a lot of oil and water residue. Install the hose that goes to the bronze filter to the PCV, and the other side to the intake manifold. Purchase a spare PCV hose from Rockauto. I'm really pleased with my set up.
Can you link to the can you bought? I know it's in here somewhere but I can't find it right now. Also, remind me if you have a check valve or not... Thank you!
 


westcoaST

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Can you link to the can you bought? I know it's in here somewhere but I can't find it right now. Also, remind me if you have a check valve or not... Thank you!
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Mishimoto-MMBCC-UNI-BL-Baffled-Oil-Catch-Can-Blue-Universal

No, I did not need to use a one way valve. I'm getting the 2JR intake, so I'll have to move it. I'm looking at adding a 5/8" OD copper return, so I can place the OCC where the air box used to be.
 


Hijinx

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I've just finished reading all 32 pages. The only thing I learned (about this car) was to get one maybe if you really feel like you should.
 


PhoenixM3

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I have a little over 3K miles on my GT500 and just installed the passenger side OCC. I'd originally purchased the dual OCC setup, but learned that no oil was collected on the driver's side. I will utilize the unused Bob's oil separator catch can for the FiST when it arrives next month
 


Rhinopolis

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I've just finished reading all 32 pages. The only thing I learned (about this car) was to get one maybe if you really feel like you should.
What were you specifically looking to find? Not that I have any additional info to offer...lol, I am just curious.
 


Rhinopolis

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What in your opinion would give definitive proof? I finished my OCC install Monday and I have since "caught" oil with the system. It make me feel good to know that the oil wasn't sucked in to the intake, and I can't say anything further because I am not certain how that oil might negatively impact things once pulled in to the intake.



Page 4 here http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/2428-Plug-and-Play-Mishimoto-Oil-Catch-Can/page4

I posted pictures showing where my specific OCC system is catching oil. WestCoast suggested I move my OCC down and let gravity do its thing of draining the oil in to the catch can, but I like seeing the oil caught after each run. It's dry on the return side of the can, and I just quickly and easily drain the line once I get home.

I have a small measured cup that I am collecting what I drain out of the line each time, and once I do my next oil change I will be able to measure all that was collected.
 


Hijinx

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What in your opinion would give definitive proof? I finished my OCC install Monday and I have since "caught" oil with the system. It make me feel good to know that the oil wasn't sucked in to the intake, and I can't say anything further because I am not certain how that oil might negatively impact things once pulled in to the intake.



Page 4 here http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/2428-Plug-and-Play-Mishimoto-Oil-Catch-Can/page4

I posted pictures showing where my specific OCC system is catching oil. WestCoast suggested I move my OCC down and let gravity do its thing of draining the oil in to the catch can, but I like seeing the oil caught after each run. It's dry on the return side of the can, and I just quickly and easily drain the line once I get home.

I have a small measured cup that I am collecting what I drain out of the line each time, and once I do my next oil change I will be able to measure all that was collected.
Ummm...being definitive...? As in, YES this stops oil build up or NO, this doesn't stop oil build up. So far, it's "maybe it does, maybe it doesn't but go ahead and slap one on just in case it does or doesn't. That way, maybe you will or won't have problems down the road. But by the by, you'll still have to have your valves cleaned so maybe an OCC is or isn't a waste of money."
 


Rhinopolis

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Ummm...being definitive...? As in, YES this stops oil build up or NO, this doesn't stop oil build up. So far, it's "maybe it does, maybe it doesn't but go ahead and slap one on just in case it does or doesn't. That way, maybe you will or won't have problems down the road. But by the by, you'll still have to have your valves cleanedso maybe an OCC is or isn't a waste of money."
Not being argumentative and I like to learn. How does one clean their valves and how does that tie in with an OCC?
 


Rhinopolis

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Walnut blasting. OCCs are "supposed" to catch the blow-by before it gets to the valves.
Did you see the link that I posted above referencing the mishimoto OCC system, and the oil that was caught in the supply line? Does that not prove that it's working to at least catch some of the oil/vapor?

Also the return side is bone dry with zero oily residue, and that only reinforces in my mind that the system is stopping oily vapors from entering the intake.
 


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