Official Brake Setup Thread

[Izzy]

I'm about to have to get my brakes done also and was planning a very similar set up as you. Is it unnecessary to get cro-treated rear brake disks?

Cryo not needed for the rears unless really tracking the crap out of it and at that point you'll want something more dedicated like a 2 piston rear. I'm waiting on my brake lines to arrive from Mountune since they're in backorder. Brake fluid is the final piece of the puzzle. Right now considering 3 alternatives; AMSOIL Series 600 DOT 4 Racing Brake Fluid, Castrol SRF and Castrol LMA for their low moisture absorption. I want to keep my bleeding intervals to minimum at least a year.

 

[JPST]

Going to be tracking? If not, standard DOT4 fluid is fine. Otherwise you should think about going to a Motul600 or the like, even though the higher end fluids should be flushed more often...

It depends on your needs and driving style. I for example am not super aggressive on my brakes but Houston drivers leave a lot to be desired so when someone cuts you off which can happen often here you'll want to be ready. Also, I know I don't want to change fluid that often so I guess I'm looking for a good fluid that won't boil on me when I need it to perform, but doesn't need frequent bleeding.

Thanks guys. I haven't tracked the car yet and have big plans on doing it this summer. I think I'll look into the fluid before I start.

As far as a verdict on my brake setup here's what I can say. They work much differently than the OEM brakes. They have a ton of stopping power but it comes on in a different way. With the OEM brakes it feels like the car dives from light brake application. These brakes don't do that. It messed with me at first because it feels like they're not working as well. However it's much more linear and once you start pressing they start working. I'm on winter tires right now so my stopping ability was limited based on the tires. At about 30mph I slammed the brakes and got a quarter second of squeal followed by ABS. Later on the highway I responsibly reached the speed limit and dropped down to around 40 mph as quickly as possible. Braking power came on smooth and car decelerated rapidly and felt very stable. Much strong than OEM. Can't wait to have my summer tires back.

I'm about to have to get my brakes done also and was planning a very similar set up as you. Is it unnecessary to get cro-treated rear brake disks?

I'd say no simply because my rears weren't really beat up that bad. They may not have even needed to be changed. The fronts looked like they went through a grinder. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but Cryo-Treatment improves durability, not performance.

 

[carramrod]

It depends on your needs and driving style. I for example am not super aggressive on my brakes but Houston drivers leave a lot to be desired so when someone cuts you off which can happen often here you'll want to be ready. Also, I know I don't want to change fluid that often so I guess I'm looking for a good fluid that won't boil on me when I need it to perform, but doesn't need frequent bleeding.

If you are concerned about initial bite, the OEM pads really can't be beat for that. The Mountune/Hawk pads are not going to be as aggressive on the pedal like the OEM pads (which has been discussed in this thread).

 

[carramrod]

Cryo not needed for the rears unless really tracking the crap out of it and at that point you'll want something more dedicated like a 2 piston rear. I'm waiting on my brake lines to arrive from Mountune since they're in backorder. Brake fluid is the final piece of the puzzle. Right now considering 3 alternatives; AMSOIL Series 600 DOT 4 Racing Brake Fluid, Castrol SRF and Castrol LMA for their low moisture absorption. I want to keep my bleeding intervals to minimum at least a year.

If you are going to be going to the track, you won't get more than 3-4 laps at MSR-Houston in the Texas heat before overheating the engine, so brakes will not be your issue

 

[Chris G]

I'm thinking of going w/ the Mountune RS-R setup w/ Stoptech slotted rotors. Are stainless steel brake lines a must when upgrading brakes on a street car?

Also, please tell me the RS-R pads and Stoptech rotors will last longer than OEM. [emoji23]

 

[Siestarider]

OEM rotors and pads all around. Motul 600 fluid. SS lines. Quaife LSD lets front brakes off a lot easier on track, although on a clockwise track I can still tell the right front gets appreciably hotter than left due to TVC which cannot be turned off. Before the Quaife I ran through front pads of various makes (Autozone best, 1 day; Hawk HPS 2 days). Now I get 8-10 hard track days and DD on OEM pads. Tires (most recently Rival S) remain the limiting factor on track. No reason to upgrade until brakes become a limit on track.

 

[XuperXero]

Front Pads: EBC Yellow
Rear Pads: EBC Green (for the less dust and since 70% of braking is done on front anyway)
Rotors: OEM all around
Brake Lines: Goodridge SS
Fluid: OEM DOT4

Just did another track day... I'm honestly going to comment that OEM setup worked better than my current setup. I couldn't go more than 5 laps without fade. I got 15 laps out of the OEM setup easy. Might have been the pads. Initial bite on OEM is definitely grabbier and locks up the wheels easier. EBC yellow, I'm actually having trouble locking up so my stopping range was longer than usual.