OEM Clutch & Flywheel (Parts Needed?)

[JDG]

Looking to swap transmissions soon with my Wavetrac LSD unit. While I am in there I would like to replace the OEM clutch and auxiliary components that fall under the "while you're in there" category. I searched for a similar thread to no availability.

Do I have the right part numbers? Have I missed anything you would replace if you were in there?

Clutch & Pressure Plate: C1BZ-7B546-J
Flywheel: C1BZ-6477-B (Can my stock unit be resurfaced?) Should I replace after 80k miles or reuse?
Slave Cylinder: DG9Z-7A564-B (appears to include throw out bearing?)

LSD Specific
Diff Installation Kit: M-4026-FA (includes new axle seals, diff bearings, and ring gear bolts)
Instructions: https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FORDINSTSHTM-4026-FA.PDF

Have I missed anything?

 

[purityracer316]

Looking to swap transmissions soon with my Wavetrac LSD unit. While I am in there I would like to replace the OEM clutch and auxiliary components that fall under the "while you're in there" category. I searched for a similar thread to no availability.

Do I have the right part numbers? Have I missed anything you would replace if you were in there?

Clutch & Pressure Plate: C1BZ-7B546-J
Flywheel: C1BZ-6477-B (Can my stock unit be resurfaced?) Should I replace after 80k miles or reuse?
Slave Cylinder: DG9Z-7A564-B (appears to include throw out bearing?)

LSD Specific
Diff Installation Kit: M-4026-FA (includes new axle seals, diff bearings, and ring gear bolts)
Instructions: https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FORDINSTSHTM-4026-FA.PDF

Have I missed anything?

Top box is the Slave Cylinder, Middle is the Clutch, Bottom is the Dual Mass Flywheel

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[JDG]

Top box is the Slave Cylinder, Middle is the Clutch, Bottom is the Dual Mass Flywheel

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Awesome, thank you!


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[purityracer316]

Oh and none of it came with a clutch alignment tool so you'll have to use a universal one unless you can find a tech at ford to let your borrow it when you install it.

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[JDG]

Oh and none of it came with a clutch alignment tool so you'll have to use a universal one unless you can find a tech at ford to let your borrow it when you install it.

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Do you have a link to the one you used? Just bought my parts btw! Gonna wait to buy the flywheel until I can check the condition of my current one..

 

[purityracer316]

I used all of them. The flywheel is the one that is most expensive. You can call around and see if anyone can resurface a dual mass flywheel. The Clutch Kit $112.92, Flywheel $393.40 and Slave Cylinder Throw out Bearing $32.38. This is what I would pay if I had to buy it from the dealership plus tax. This is what the flywheel looked like on the one I did. Few hot spots. I just like having the piece of mind that I don't have to tear into it again for awhile because I knew I've replaced it. If you have a shop with a lift, the right tools and experience it should only take 45 minutes to get the transmission out.

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[purityracer316]

Oh the alignment tool. Sorry I didn't really read the post. I used a punch the same size as the clutch disc and the pilot.

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[JDG]

Oh the alignment tool. Sorry I didn't really read the post. I used a punch the same size as the clutch disc and the pilot.

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Awesome thanks! Did you drop the sub frame to get the tranny out?


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[Ford ST]

I used all of them. The flywheel is the one that is most expensive. You can call around and see if anyone can resurface a dual mass flywheel. The Clutch Kit $112.92, Flywheel $393.40 and Slave Cylinder Throw out Bearing $32.38. This is what I would pay if I had to buy it from the dealership plus tax. This is what the flywheel looked like on the one I did. Few hot spots. I just like having the piece of mind that I don't have to tear into it again for awhile because I knew I've replaced it. If you have a shop with a lift, the right tools and experience it should only take 45 minutes to get the transmission out.

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You are a excellent technician if you can do that in 45 minutes. I have been working on cars for 15 years went to school for two years to learn more. Worked at two different shops eventually left the industry. I have the knowledge but I don't have the hand skill you have. I really prefer drivability problems and diagnostics was never great at the heavy stuff.
You get a A plus in my book.

The fastest clutch replacement I have ever done was on a Nissan Maxima with a friend. It took six hours.

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[JDG]

You are a excellent technician if you can do that in 45 minutes. I have been working on cars for 15 years went to school for two years to learn more. Worked at two different shops eventually left the industry. I have the knowledge but I don't have the hand skill you have. I really prefer drivability problems and diagnostics was never great at the heavy stuff.
You get a A plus in my book.

The fastest clutch replacement I have ever done was on a Nissan Maxima with a friend. It took six hours.

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I was am literally budgeting a whole weekend (probably 20 hours) for the transmission swap lol


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[Ford ST]

I was am literally budgeting a whole weekend (probably 20 hours) for the transmission swap lol


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Would be the same for me.

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[purityracer316]

Awesome thanks! Did you drop the sub frame to get the tranny out?


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No not at all. There's enough room to shift the engine a little and take off the transmission bracket on the transmission itself and slant the engine and transmission downward a little on the driver side, and the transmission will come out easily. I said screw it and man handle it when I was stabbing it back in instead of using the transmission jack and had some two of the crew members start the bolts while I held it up.

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[purityracer316]

Just a rough ideal of how to do it from memory. Ratcheting wrenches helped alot in those tight spots. I also so had a lift, screw jack and trans jack which made it easier.

How I did it was start on top first. Do the whole take out the headlights, and windshield cowl and under cowl. Take out the battery, battery tray, computer. Take out the evap line assembly. Disconnect the shifter linkage from the gear selector and unbolt the shift linkage and bungee cord it up and out of the way. Take out the crossover pipe and whatever air cleaner setup you have. Unbolt the heat shield from turbo manifold, and downpipe. I disconnected both oxygen sensors and completely took out the upstream oxygen sensor so I can get enough room to take out the other heat shield bolt on the turbo manifold. Take out the top turbo downpipe bolt. I think there's 7 total pigtails to disconnect including computer(2), O2 sensors (2), Gear Selector mechanism (1), MAF Sensor (1), Evap (1)

There's 2 bolts on top to remove trans to the engine , 4 on front of 2 of them for the starter and 1 holding a ground strap and another 1 holding a in a wiring harness with bracket. Done up top for now.

Remove the front wheels, axle nuts, disconnect the tie rod ends from the spindle/knuckle however you want to call it. Disconnect the lower ball joint from the spindle. Drain the trans fluid. Take out both hot side and cold side piping. Remove the 4 oil pan bolt to trans. Remove the dp bracket and, RMM and RMM bracket. Remove the bracket holding the pass CV shaft in place and remove the shaft. Remove the driver shaft. Remove the other 2 dp bolts and position the dp aside. Then there should be 2 more bolts holding the trans in. One by the top of the dp and one above th oil pan on the back side.

Place hydraulic jack with a piece of 2x4 under the engine and then another hydraulic jack with a piece of 2x4 under the transmission. Unbolt the transmission mount. Clamp the rubber line for slave cylinder toward the back of the trans. Remove the clip holding the hard line in the rubber line and position the hard line up so you don't lose fluid from the reservoir. Lower both jacks slightly to gain access to the bolts to remove the trans bracket. Lower the jacks a little more and pry a little between the engine and trans and work the trans out. The wiring harness bracket by the starter will probably be the only thing in the way of trying to get the trans out completely.


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[JDG]

OEM clutch and pressure plate photos:

Notice the AP stamps. I wonder how this one differs from the $500 ST200 clutch since they appear to have the same manufacturer.

@ron@whoosh would you be willing to post the numbers on the st200 clutch since I know you sell those?


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[PunkST]

I didnt see new flywheel bolts on the list. Arent they one time use??

 

[HardBoiledEgg]

I couldn't get new bolts in time so I reused the 64k ones

 

[purityracer316]

I reused also and used a little loctite. I just made sure I had everything torque to spec. The only stretch bolts I would never trust reusing are head bolts.

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[MagnetiseST]

Not at all saying this is incorrect, but there are some things you can do differently if you aren't doing it in a shop where tools are plentiful and whatnot. Just looking to provide insight to JDG. I've dropped 4 of these at my house. After the first 2 it got easier lol.

How I did it was start on top first. Do the whole take out the headlights, and windshield cowl and under cowl

You don't need to do this, but its good practice.

Unbolt the heat shield from turbo manifold, and downpipe. I disconnected both oxygen sensors and completely took out the upstream oxygen sensor so I can get enough room to take out the other heat shield bolt on the turbo manifold. Take out the top turbo downpipe bolt. I think there's 7 total pigtails to disconnect including computer(2), O2 sensors (2), Gear Selector mechanism (1), MAF Sensor (1), Evap (1)

So just like the factory manual says to drop the subframe, you don't need to do anything at all with the O2s, heat shield, downpipe or manifold. The very first time I did this, I disconnected the downpipe from the exhaust but left it attached to the turbo, realized upon re-installation that I didn't need to do that at all, but I think that it depends on exhaust. I would unbolt the downpipe from the exhaust for peace of mind. The reason the OE manual says to remove the downpipe is because there is one bolt that is behind it which goes into the transmission, however it will completely un-thread and you do not need to remove the downpipe.

Remove the front wheels, axle nuts, disconnect the tie rod ends from the spindle/knuckle however you want to call it. Disconnect the lower ball joint from the spindle. Drain the trans fluid. Take out both hot side and cold side piping. Remove the 4 oil pan bolt to trans. Remove the dp bracket and, RMM and RMM bracket. Remove the bracket holding the pass CV shaft in place and remove the shaft. Remove the driver shaft. Remove the other 2 dp bolts and position the dp aside. Then there should be 2 more bolts holding the trans in. One by the top of the dp and one above th oil pan on the back side.

In order to avoid damaging the lower ball joint, I simply removed the entire lower control arm assembly while attached to the knuckle. I also left the axles attached to the hub and slid the entire thing out of each side of the car as an assembly. So cv axle, knuckle, and lower control arms all slid out together. I also only removed the cold side pipe, the hot side pipe will rotate with the engine when you let it down to get the transmission out, and it is not in the way of removing the axle carrier bracket nuts. See what I said before about the removal of the downpipe. If you want to remove yours, go ahead, but you can remove the transmission without doing so.



Other than that, perfect description.

 

[nickstewartroc]

I'd highly suggest new flywheel bolts. With them being torque to yield and not just standard bolts you're asking for trouble. You should be able to order them for cheap at your local Ford dealership, that's what I did. I'd never trust reusing tty bolts, especially on something like a flywheel. Just think about where it could go if it lets loose...

 

[M-Sport fan]

OEM clutch and pressure plate photos:

Notice the AP stamps. I wonder how this one differs from the $500 ST200 clutch since they appear to have the same manufacturer.

@ron@whoosh would you be willing to post the numbers on the st200 clutch since I know you sell those?


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Thanks for posting this.

I knew that they used an AP pressure plate/cover, but did not realize that LUK supplied the friction disc.