NEW product : AWR rear motor mount with 70, 88, and 95 durometer bushing options

[jtehh]

I was waiting a bit to review, but will add my thoughts so far. I ordered the 88 red from Whoosh and installed it about three weeks ago. I do not put many miles on my car, so I'm pretty sure the mount has not broken in fully yet. But -

If you do not want to put up with NVH, I'd probably recommend the softer 70. When I first cranked up after installation, I thought my car was going to shake itself to pieces. It does rapidly soften up, but even now that I'm probably 200 miles in, it is noticeable. At very low RPMs (like when going from a stop to a start and letting out the clutch) there is a good, healthy shake. At higher RPMs, things are a bit noisy as the engine gives the frame some good vibes. It does seem to be improving still, and the weather is quite cold, so I do think I'll see more improvements.

In the end, I'm still happy. I don't drive on the highway, and the benefits outweigh the cons for me. It may not be for everyone, but I appreciate the harshness. I didn't buy the FiST to be an easy cruiser. I can really wring out first and bang into second and the mount just takes it. Nothing sloppy moving around and no more wincing by me when I can hear the engine move. Great stuff.

Per the question above, I torqued to 50 based on what other mounts recommended. Next time I have the car up, I'll get underneath to check and make sure they haven't loosened.

Below is a shot of the installed mount from each side.

**Oh, and forgive the bricks in the second shot. I have the jack and two jack stands in action. I add a stack of bricks because I'm always damn nervous under a car. Makes me feel only a little better.

 

[TDavis]

Bumping this thread with a review of my newly installed 88a AWR RMM. Thank you Ron @ Whoosh for getting this shipped the day of my order!

After just a few miles, these are simply my initial thoughts at the moment.

Let's start with vibrations since they are typically a big concern next to performance. At COLD start idle, vibrations are hardly noticeable. I'd easily say the car still idles 90-95% smooth as if the stock RMM is still there. Honestly, even with the AC on, my opinion is still true. Vibrations are a non-issue at idle. Upon take off/engaging first, that's when you feel the difference. The car will vibrate each blip of gas you give it to take off and is VERY noticeable.. Like.. Holy crap noticeable. Would I say this is a bad thing? Not at all. I know for a fact this mount will break in and feel much better after 500-1000 miles. If it doesn't break in, would I be mad? NO. Read below as to why..

Performance.. I'll keep this short and sweet. No longer do I have to baby clutch engagement to get smooth shifts. No longer do I dread the downshift into 2nd before a corner.. The car feels so much better connected to the point it honestly feels quicker. Between acceleration and deceleration, you feel 0 engine movement. It's so night and day different that if I got in 2 FiST's blindly, one with the stock RMM and one with the AWR, the first mod I would guess is that a stiff RMM like the AWR is installed. It seems lots of people played it safe and went for the 70a bushing, but the 88a seriously is not bad. I'd prefer the harder mount to ensure it does what it needs to. Many suggested against this, but I went with my gut feeling and thrilled that I did.

In summary, everyone should do a RMM. More specifically, everyone should do the AWR RMM because this piece is insane quality + provides durometer options. It bolted right up without a hitch after I realized how it needed to be oriented with its own, pretty bracket. I'm probably a novice or less, skill-wise, when it comes to installing car parts, and this was mind-blowingly easy lol.

Any update on how well the mount has broken in over the last few months?

 

[redmoe]

I was waiting a bit to review, but will add my thoughts so far. I ordered the 88 red from Whoosh and installed it about three weeks ago. I do not put many miles on my car, so I'm pretty sure the mount has not broken in fully yet. But -

If you do not want to put up with NVH, I'd probably recommend the softer 70. When I first cranked up after installation, I thought my car was going to shake itself to pieces. It does rapidly soften up, but even now that I'm probably 200 miles in, it is noticeable. At very low RPMs (like when going from a stop to a start and letting out the clutch) there is a good, healthy shake. At higher RPMs, things are a bit noisy as the engine gives the frame some good vibes. It does seem to be improving still, and the weather is quite cold, so I do think I'll see more improvements.

In the end, I'm still happy. I don't drive on the highway, and the benefits outweigh the cons for me. It may not be for everyone, but I appreciate the harshness. I didn't buy the FiST to be an easy cruiser. I can really wring out first and bang into second and the mount just takes it. Nothing sloppy moving around and no more wincing by me when I can hear the engine move. Great stuff.

Per the question above, I torqued to 50 based on what other mounts recommended. Next time I have the car up, I'll get underneath to check and make sure they haven't loosened.

Below is a shot of the installed mount from each side.

**Oh, and forgive the bricks in the second shot. I have the jack and two jack stands in action. I add a stack of bricks because I'm always damn nervous under a car. Makes me feel only a little better.

View attachment 16918 View attachment 16919

Thanks for the torque info. I use the brick safety method as well lol.

 

[redmoe]

Follow up question: did you torque all the bolts to 50 or just the Two main bolt?

 

[jtehh]

Follow up question: did you torque all the bolts to 50 or just the Two main bolt?

Just the two on the mount at 50 lbs. Everything on the various brackets at 15 lbs (and I really don't remember where I read that, but it sounded good). I suppose torquing to "good and tight" might be fine for those as long as the mount itself is secure. But I'm also a mechanical noob, so will stand by to be corrected.

 

[KnockOff]

I was waiting a bit to review, but will add my thoughts so far. I ordered the 88 red from Whoosh and installed it about three weeks ago. I do not put many miles on my car, so I'm pretty sure the mount has not broken in fully yet. But -

If you do not want to put up with NVH, I'd probably recommend the softer 70. When I first cranked up after installation, I thought my car was going to shake itself to pieces. It does rapidly soften up, but even now that I'm probably 200 miles in, it is noticeable. At very low RPMs (like when going from a stop to a start and letting out the clutch) there is a good, healthy shake. At higher RPMs, things are a bit noisy as the engine gives the frame some good vibes. It does seem to be improving still, and the weather is quite cold, so I do think I'll see more improvements.

In the end, I'm still happy. I don't drive on the highway, and the benefits outweigh the cons for me. It may not be for everyone, but I appreciate the harshness. I didn't buy the FiST to be an easy cruiser. I can really wring out first and bang into second and the mount just takes it. Nothing sloppy moving around and no more wincing by me when I can hear the engine move. Great stuff.

Per the question above, I torqued to 50 based on what other mounts recommended. Next time I have the car up, I'll get underneath to check and make sure they haven't loosened.

Below is a shot of the installed mount from each side.

**Oh, and forgive the bricks in the second shot. I have the jack and two jack stands in action. I add a stack of bricks because I'm always damn nervous under a car. Makes me feel only a little better.

View attachment 16918 View attachment 16919

You know I bought silver because the red pic on the site does not look like that. If only I would have seen this first.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[apex1]

I have a question about installing a rmm. Does the car have to be jacked up to do the installation so that there is no weight on the front wheels? Or can the I use ramps to get the clearance i need to get under the car? I don't know if having the car on ramps would somehow put a load on the rmm that would make it hard to swap out or if tightening the bolts with the front suspension loaded would result in the bolts being tightened in the wrong position.

 

[TDavis]

I have a question about installing a rmm. Does the car have to be jacked up to do the installation so that there is no weight on the front wheels? Or can the I use ramps to get the clearance i need to get under the car? I don't know if having the car on ramps would somehow put a load on the rmm that would make it hard to swap out or if tightening the bolts with the front suspension loaded would result in the bolts being tightened in the wrong position.

It shouldn't matter if the car is suspended or on the ground. Just make sure to support the bottom of the engine with a piece of wood on a jack for safety.

 

[jtehh]

It shouldn't matter if the car is suspended or on the ground..

From what I could tell, yep, this is correct. The only thing that needs to be supported is the engine when you are trying to remove and re-insert the RMM. To get the bolt holes to line up (and to make it easier to remove the bolts), you will need to push up a bit on the engine to get it closer to the sub-frame. Ramps should be fine.

.... Just make sure to support the bottom of the engine with a piece of wood on a jack for safety.

I didn't know I needed to actually put a support under the engine. It could have just fallen down on my head?

 

[KnockOff]

From what I could tell, yep, this is correct. The only thing that needs to be supported is the engine when you are trying to remove and re-insert the RMM. To get the bolt holes to line up (and to make it easier to remove the bolts), you will need to push up a bit on the engine to get it closer to the sub-frame. Ramps should be fine.



I didn't know I needed to actually put a support under the engine. It could have just fallen down on my head?

The engine will not fall lol. The holes are out of alignment is all. I pushed the engine up with my arm and shoulder. Then shoved the bolts in. Then pushed up again per bolt to hand thread in.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[alexrex20]

Ya, that. The rmm is not load bearing.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[jtehh]

The engine will not fall lol. The holes are out of alignment is all. I pushed the engine up with my arm and shoulder. Then shoved the bolts in. Then pushed up again per bolt to hand thread in.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Okay, that is what I figured/hoped. I watched a lot of install videos and I didn't see anything supporting the engine. Just a push to move it close when lining up the holes.

 

[TDavis]

Okay, that is what I figured/hoped. I watched a lot of install videos and I didn't see anything supporting the engine. Just a push to move it close when lining up the holes.

Yeah thats what I meant. To keep the holes aligned.

 

[redmoe]

Just installed my 70a mount and it was super easy. For anyone that is using a torque wrench 50 ftlbs for the two rmm bolts and for the front bracket work perfect. I found an installation sheet for a different mount that confirms this. Hand tight is good for the 4 bolts in the exhaust bracket.

Vibration is minimal be the direct feel of the shifts is fantastic.

 

[ron@whoosh]

thanks everyone for posting all the info in here

this mount has been a huge success
where else can you select one of 3 colors and one of 3 bushing durometers for less than $120 shipped?

It's literally the best mount on the market in terms of performance and value

 

[TDavis]

Whats the process when wanting to just get a different bushing? I plan on getting this mount with the 88a but just in case thats too stiff for me, (probably will be fine), I can get the 70a.

 

[ron@whoosh]

Whats the process when wanting to just get a different bushing? I plan on getting this mount with the 88a but just in case thats too stiff for me, (probably will be fine), I can get the 70a.

email me directly please ron@whooshmotorsports.com for this request
I'm fairly certain the last time someone wanted a different bushing it was $35

 

[Kalter]

thanks everyone for posting all the info in here

this mount has been a huge success
where else can you select one of 3 colors and one of 3 bushing durometers for less than $120 shipped?

It's literally the best mount on the market in terms of performance and value

Seriously, I don't understand how the other companies can ask 150 and upwards WITHOUT the bracket while this one has not only the damn bracket, but also a choice of bushing and color. Quality is top notch, so even if the price is cheap, it's not made cheap!

Even with the extra shipping to Canada, it was cheaper to get the AWR than the Cobb (which is the closest one in price I believe) and it's stiffer like I wanted.

 

[alexrex20]

But the others have a logo and are made of aluminium.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[ron@whoosh]

But the others have a logo and are made of aluminium.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

All very true alexrex20
The AWR is the option for those wanting to pay the minimum for maximum performance
instead of fancy billet with the only concern being laser etching and no options for bushing durometer to suit the needs of the consumer

AWR is a race shop producing mounts that perform not "look" which typically means high cost as well.
I had to convince AWR to offer the color options we have now because I didn't like the silver "look". I prefer Gloss Red lol

This mount doesn't suit everyone, and that's perfectly OK. There's tons of other options out there for Fiesta owners wanting something else.