NEW: MeisterR Coilovers for Fiesta ST, $995 Delivered

[Mark88FFan]

Does anybody happen to know the total length of the Front shock / spring setup. Im looking to buy a set of Coilover covers to help keep dirt off the adjusters and threads during winter (Very salty roads in the UK, We loose the ability to drive altogether when the temperature drops to near, or below 0c) I guess what i need is the measurement from the top of the spring to the very bottom of the threads on the height adjuster. Im awaiting delivery of my Coilovers still currently but im impatient to wait before ordering the covers....

 

[MeisterR]

Can I choose a different spring rate with the zeta setup?

For now, our only setup is the standard 5/3
But as other have said, this setup are design to work well on fast road as well as track use.
There are plenty of scope for adjustment.

Generally we try to stay on the softer end of the adjustment because in most cases, the softer springs will yield better result.
As it mean driver can use more damping force, and this will increase the amount of loads the tires receive and result in better traction.

Jerrick

 

[MeisterR]

MeisterR Durability Tested

Not a Fiesta, just want to share the latest result in MeisterR durability test.

The Ring Banana, a 1.6litre 90hp Mazda Miata (NA) that was purchased back in 2015 for almost next to nothing.
The entire objective was to get the car to break into the 8 minutes time mark at the Nurburgring BTG, as well as see how much difference upgrade will do to lap time.

It was a fun project, and naturally MeisterR got involved. The base lap time with the car as is was 9:21.8
After an upgrade to MeisterR coilovers and Kumho V70a, the car managed a blistering 8:39.5 (knocking over 40 seconds off the lap time)

This car have been doing countless lap at Nurburg over the past 12 months.
And this past weekend, the Ring Banana have achieved another feat.
Completing a full 24 hours endurance race at Circuito Ascari in Spain!

Stats over the 24 hours with The Ring Banana.
- 354 laps
- 15 pit stops
- 1,915 km on track (~1,190 miles)
- 318L of fuel (~84 US Gallon, 14 MPG )
- 0,8L of engine oil
- 0,5L of gearbox oil
- 8 out of the 10 tires allowed
- 1 set of brake discs and pads
- 0 spare parts

What a result, we are happy to report that after 12 months of hard usage and 24 hours of continuous racing
The MeisterR ZetaCRD+ coilovers that were bolted on to the car is still going strong with no failure reported.

Just want to share the exciting news.

Jerrick

 

[BronxBomber]

For now, our only setup is the standard 5/3
But as other have said, this setup are design to work well on fast road as well as track use.
There are plenty of scope for adjustment.

Generally we try to stay on the softer end of the adjustment because in most cases, the softer springs will yield better result.
As it mean driver can use more damping force, and this will increase the amount of loads the tires receive and result in better traction.

Jerrick

I find this interesting since most coil over systems I've used had a standard spring rate of 6k Front & 4K rear. I was looking for something a bit stiffer for track, but looking at your results, I may give these a shot

 

[MeisterR]

I find this interesting since most coil over systems I've used had a standard spring rate of 6k Front & 4K rear. I was looking for something a bit stiffer for track, but looking at your results, I may give these a shot

When we first calculate the vehicle dynamic for the Fiesta ST, it was a toss up between the 6/4 and the 5/3 setup.
Generally when we work the numbers out, we use the 2.0Hz wheel frequency as the line for road car.
A fast road car want to stay under this 2.0Hz wheel frequency area.

Wheel frequency in a simply way to understand is what springs rate the wheel actually see.
So it is a level playing ground for all car type, because in the end it is what the wheel / tires see that matters.

So the 5/3 is slightly under the line, and the 6/4 is slightly over.
Both will work, but sticking to our principle we use the 5/3 because we know for a road car that will work well.

The MeisterR ZetaCRD coilovers are designed to be a good all rounder.
Something you can drive on daily, and go onto a track day and have fun.
We don't want a driver to feel tired of driving the car for long road trip, because that defeat the purposes of a good suspension.

As Collin Chapman once said, "Any suspension will work if you don't let it".
Having a softer springs rate and using the damper valving to tune the ride characteristic is the way we design our suspension.

Jerrick

 

[BronxBomber]

Thank you for the explanation.

 

[milkman42]

ordered! now we wait....

 

[parapraxis24]

ordered! now we wait....

You're going to love em.

 

[milkman42]

got em on this weekend! test drive felt great but i'm waiting for an alignment before i push it any harder

DSC06063.jpg by Chris Hersh, on Flickr

 

[parapraxis24]

got em on this weekend! test drive felt great but i'm waiting for an alignment before i push it any harder

DSC06063.jpg by Chris Hersh, on Flickr

Nice! You probably didn't screw up the alignment too much. The only big change on mine was the driver's side toe being out about .22* and everything else was still within spec.

I say that because I drove like an idiot for two weeks before getting an alignment.

 

[milkman42]

alignment done, car handles great! on -8/-10 now and 'out of the box' ride height. leaving the height for now as winter wheels/tires are going on soon. i'll see if the dampeners need adjusting then too.

 

[LilPartyBox]

congrats. car looks great. they'll settle about a 1/4" (or less) lower in a few weeks.

 

[MeisterR]

Anyone have any new feedback they would like to share?

Jerrick

 

[trahma]

Anyone have any new feedback they would like to share?

So I had an issue with my rear strut. I installed these out of the box and as my first set of coilovers didn't really know what I should be looking for. After hearing clunking I jacked up my car to discover this.



I checked the driver side and that side was also only tightened by a few threads. Thankfully the threads on the passenger side weren't stripped and I've gone through and tightened each side to about a half inch of thread but I see lots of room to go. How much thread should these have?

 

[MeisterR]

A lot more that that for sure.
Out of the box setting, the bottom of the damper should be about 20mm lower than the bottom of the peak hole.

When you peak into the hole, you should always see the damper body thread.
So some how the damper have not been turn in far enough into the lower bracket.

Was that out of the box setting with nothing adjusted?
I'll ask my warehouse to check the stock, because it certainly should have more thread in the bracket according to our drawing.

Jerrick

 

[trahma]

A lot more that that for sure.
Out of the box setting, the bottom of the damper should be about 20mm lower than the bottom of the peak hole.

When you peak into the hole, you should always see the damper body thread.
So some how the damper have not been turn in far enough into the lower bracket.

Was that out of the box setting with nothing adjusted?
I'll ask my warehouse to check the stock, because it certainly should have more thread in the bracket according to our drawing.

Jerrick

Yup that's how it was as received. I installed the coilovers by myself and didn't adjust anything. In fact I think I had made a post (or PMed you directly) asking if it was all ready to install without any modifications. I only threaded the 12mm because it seemed I was already shortening the strut so much was worried it was too short. I'll try to put the car on the jack tomorrow and take a picture of it before I head out of town.

 

[MeisterR]

That is very odd.

As from the marking on the damper you can see where the bracket use to locate (the dirty part).
So somehow, the collar became loose, and the damper manage to turn itself all the way out of the bracket.

Thread the body back in, if you measure from the top mount all the way to the bolt where it attach to the car.
The damper should be about 65mm inside the bracket.

Jerrick

 

[LT Berzerker]

(looking to eventually move from HDPE to NASA TT in the next 2 years)

1. I like that I can change the dampers out without sending into to manufacturer.

2. Looking at the bspec rates running 450/500lb/in out of the box but, the eibach kit isn't rebuildable from the manufacturer. So that's out...

3. BC allows me to change out spring rates, but have to send in to rebuild, annoying, and no playable camber adj tophat/camber plate....Not out, but not overly appealing...

3. So I'm kinda torn right now...Big question is down the road could I get higher spring rates if needed with proper valving to swap out?

Looking to purchase in the next 60days....

So, basically I'm really torn right now...now, checking miester's site springs are available, but valving is the issue.... And really don't want to drop an additional 1k for the GT1 right now (house fund)...

So, help me decide...Lol

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[MeisterR]

So nogo on alternate spring rates at the moment?

Not a standard procedure, but the questions is what springs rate are you looking for and why?
Because our damper valving are match to the springs, going on a higher springs rate will decrease performance.

I am happy to help to produce a more focused setup, but we don't just want to throw harder springs onto a coilovers and call it a race setup, because we know dynamically it wouldn't work as well as a properly engineered setup.

Jerrick

 

[LT Berzerker]

Looking at 7k front, 5k rear...Step between full on bspec and autox, with a soft enough rear to not get super happy rear end under braking/corner entry...Max rotation isn't nearly as needed for road courses vs autox...Since I do some autox for fun occasionally... Now if be willing to run the 5/3 setup for a year, unless you can set me up with the higher rates initially...

Because the fiesta has had issue with stiffer sway bars cracking the front mounting points I'd rather run a higher spring rate and less bar (not really needed out back with the fiesta's rear stiffness already) then the softer rate and reliance on the swaybar to manage the bulk of weight transfer...

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