Mountune Fiesta MRX Turbo

[slopoke]

I don't think it was a PIA at all...The biggest PIA was getting the V-band clamp on the manifold adapter to the Turbo to hold it together. The Gen2 GTX2860R....has been everything I ever wanted and more...im glad I gave up my GT2554R and bought into the GEN2....Atleast with the MRX you have an upgraded compressor wheel and anti-surge housing! My suggestion to remedy that situation is to put the manifold W/ Turbo together while you have the DP out and out of the way while under the car up in the Area where the manifold goes and then hang the manifold with the turbo attached to the engine. Trying to get it to line up with the manifold already hanging is redonkulous...Good luck if you try though...I know I did then I said fuC% this and put it all together underneath the car against the firewall and then hung it as a unit. Ed call me if you need me to explain it!

Thanks. If I run into trouble, I'll call.

 

[Se7eN]

The Gen2 is bigger....I tried to from the top also....just raised the Hoist up and sat on my stool. I also have a stockish exhaust manifold.

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I actually had one and changed it for the MRX. Actually considering going down to a hybrid and leaving out the port. Just cause availability of E85 around these areas is rare. It becomes a big issue after big events and it kinda runs out.

Either that or just leaving the turbo as is, remove the port and just run pump or a mix with 100oct or very little % Ethanol.

 

[Se7eN]

Question to the people who still read this, and I guess even if you have different ATP Turbos you can shime in. I'm having constant issues with the bolts of the V-band Adapter to the manifold getting loose. Constantly having to go in and re-tighten usually after running the E40 tune with more boost.

Is there any way you can keep the bolts in place with out having them back out? Any of you experienced this issue before?

PS, already solved the issue with the down pipe adapter getting loose.

 

[wraith]

Question to the people who still read this, and I guess even if you have different ATP Turbos you can shime in. I'm having constant issues with the bolts of the V-band Adapter to the manifold getting loose. Constantly having to go in and re-tighten usually after running the E40 tune with more boost.

Is there any way you can keep the bolts in place with out having them back out? Any of you experienced this issue before?

PS, already solved the issue with the down pipe adapter getting loose.

You already saw this?

https://mountune.app.box.com/s/o1ifbxsfv7uxia3c3glqhe0h0dx25u79

Page 3, their very expensive solution or some version of it cheaper if you source parts elsewhere.

 

[Ceecab705]

I used stage 8 fasteners on the turbo to DP adapter. I bet you could use the same ones on the manifold to turbo.

 

[Se7eN]

Might consider this. I'm going to be taking it appart to see whats wrong this time and im sure its the same damn bolt. Probably will end up taking it out of the car to work on it.

 

[Ceecab705]

Might consider this. I'm going to be taking it appart to see whats wrong this time and im sure its the same damn bolt. Probably will end up taking it out of the car to work on it.

I bought Stage 8 3950. Should work for you. I guess I'll start keeping a better eye on the manifold to adapter.

 

[Se7eN]

Went ahead and got longer bolts for the V-band adapter with nuts on the top which close at the end to lock it in place (don't remember the exact name). Also lots of locktite regardless if it will hold up to the heat at all. So far so good and not issues to report. I'll keep an eye on it.

 

[MRX330]

This was a great thread and was one of the main reasons I bought the MRX. I did bend the knee and get the Mountune locking nuts and bolts along with the ATP oil and water line kit. Once Mitch is done tuning on the dyno I will post numbers for 91,93 and E30/40.

 

[Ceecab705]

This was a great thread and was one of the main reasons I bought the MRX. I did bend the knee and get the Mountune locking nuts and bolts along with the ATP oil and water line kit. Once Mitch is done tuning on the dyno I will post numbers for 91,93 and E30/40.

I cheated and bought the nuts from stage 8 for a fraction of the price. I also made my own coolant line for the drain using Russell stainless hose. I only had to do the drain line because that's the one that just wouldn't seal. I actually think I over tightened it and it went bad.

 

[Xaendeau]

Just reporting some dyno results. Upgraded wastegate, with a CPE intake, FSwerks 2.5" exhaust, Mishimoto J-Line universal fit intercooler, with an emmisions friendly fat Catholic converter, 93 octane gas, ~25-26 psi. Wastegate pressure is around 17 psi and we have the stiffer wastegate set to around 3-4 mm of preload.

In 100 F weather, we put it on a dyno and did 3 back to back pulls last summer without a fan to simulate a worst case track scenario. The worst dyno pull we did we saw around 140 F charge air temps and 270 to the wheels at around 6600 RPM on an uncorrected dynojet. Average power in the hot summer was around 275-280 wheel HP uncorrected dynojet.

When the weather cooled off, we frequently see 295-300 wheel HP...and this is with a cat on 93 octane.

We also learned that the Accessport's estimated HP is within 5 HP of an uncorrected dynojet. However, the est HP and est TQ logs show the peak HP and peak TQ in a different location than the dynojet shows. It is usually within a few HP, but you are a few hundred RPM off.

I've got a local guy that does 3 dynojet pulls for $100. ;-D

 

[Xaendeau]

Also, we learned that a 100% OEM intake and OEM paper filter is good for about 260 HP in the summer and 280 HP in the winter. In the summer it was causing boost to taper off above 6000 RPM. The OEM intake held boost in the winter but was a restriction.

That means when you upgrade you turbo, replacing the stock intake and paper filter with a 3" CPE intake is good for about 15-20 HP. It also reinforces the fact that the OEM airbox is perfectly sufficient on the stock turbo. It really only needs to be upgraded when you turboswap.

I forgot to test the OEM intake with the green filter I had laying around. Sorry guys, just have data with a paper filter.

 

[shouldbeasy]

Also, we learned that a 100% OEM intake and OEM paper filter is good for about 260 HP in the summer and 280 HP in the winter. In the summer it was causing boost to taper off above 6000 RPM. The OEM intake held boost in the winter but was a restriction.

That means when you upgrade you turbo, replacing the stock intake and paper filter with a 3" CPE intake is good for about 15-20 HP. It also reinforces the fact that the OEM airbox is perfectly sufficient on the stock turbo. It really only needs to be upgraded when you turboswap.

I forgot to test the OEM intake with the green filter I had laying around. Sorry guys, just have data with a paper filter.

Bugger - would really like to see OEM box with upgraded filter. I'm really not sold on the aftermarket boxes (even the CPE one has leaks on the box corners from what I recall).

 

[Xaendeau]

Bugger - would really like to see OEM box with upgraded filter. I'm really not sold on the aftermarket boxes (even the CPE one has leaks on the box corners from what I recall).

The biggest restriction I saw was as the neck down in the crossover pipe. Budget baller setup would be a stock airbox, high flow filter, and Whoosh's crossover pipe.

The OEM turbo neck down is a huge problem with an upgraded turbo. Whoosh's pipe fixes that.

 

[shouldbeasy]

The biggest restriction I saw was as the neck down in the crossover pipe. Budget baller setup would be a stock airbox, high flow filter, and Whoosh's crossover pipe.

The OEM turbo neck down is a huge problem with an upgraded turbo. Whoosh's pipe fixes that.

Which pipe is that? Care to provide a link? TIA

 

[Xaendeau]

Which pipe is that? Care to provide a link? TIA

https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif...r-ford-fiesta-st-2014-2017-crossover-pipe-kit

It is the cheapest option in the US at $125. Their house brand stuff has been pretty good based on what I see.

 

[Se7eN]

I've got a local guy that does 3 dynojet pulls for $100. ;-D

down here it's $35 for 3 pulls in just about every dyno. which is great for testing

 

[Se7eN]

Just reporting some dyno results. Upgraded wastegate, with a CPE intake, FSwerks 2.5" exhaust, Mishimoto J-Line universal fit intercooler, with an emmisions friendly fat Catholic converter, 93 octane gas, ~25-26 psi. Wastegate pressure is around 17 psi and we have the stiffer wastegate set to around 3-4 mm of preload.

In 100 F weather, we put it on a dyno and did 3 back to back pulls last summer without a fan to simulate a worst case track scenario. The worst dyno pull we did we saw around 140 F charge air temps and 270 to the wheels at around 6600 RPM on an uncorrected dynojet. Average power in the hot summer was around 275-280 wheel HP uncorrected dynojet.

When the weather cooled off, we frequently see 295-300 wheel HP...and this is with a cat on 93 octane.

We also learned that the Accessport's estimated HP is within 5 HP of an uncorrected dynojet. However, the est HP and est TQ logs show the peak HP and peak TQ in a different location than the dynojet shows. It is usually within a few HP, but you are a few hundred RPM off.

I've got a local guy that does 3 dynojet pulls for $100. ;-D

This is all great info. Though the Accesport reading really depends on your size of tire. I run a 215/40R17 and it reads about 20whp under the actual power, and also as you said it shows power a different points of the graph

 

[TyphoonFiST]

The access port is also based off the K39 turbo from Ford so if you go any bigger than that it can skew the readings some for the WHP & WTQ readings.

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[MRX330]

I sometimes wonder what flavor of Kool Aid ' Mountune' is...

It’s KoolAid made with the engineered difference