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Mishimoto J-Line Intercooler Testing

RAAMaudio

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#21
Yes, you would need joiners and all 2.5" stuff s.

2 elbows
2 joiners
3 clamps per side so 6 clamps

The nice thing about welded elbows is you just need 1 clamp per side, smoother flowing, less weight....

And, the end tanks are cast so not really 2.5, more like 2.25" inside.

If I do the welded elbows I will cut off the stock outlets so they are the same size as the inside of the elbows, more like 2.4" for better flow. I can do this for buyer if I decide to sell it.

On the fence about taking off a perfectly great setup I put alot of extra care into and putting on a smaller IC as the J-Line does a superb job and just a tiny bit of effort and make it even better with the welded elbows.

If I change IC's I have to do all the work to seal it all up again.
 


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Location
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#22
Ok so 2 x 2.5 elbows
4 x 2.5 inch clamps
2 x 2.5 inch intercooler joiner
???

Sorry just want to make sure I have everything, i already put my order into mishimoto.
 


C. love

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#25
If you look around you can do this FMIC for about 200 bucks. My IC was like 150 shipped and about 50 for the rest of the parts.

It works well and I cant really say much beyond what RAAM and other have said.
 


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#26
It seems like the most economical option. I cant see spending 600-1200 for an intercooler. Even if they can handle more horsepower, the J Line is proven at over 500hp. I dont see very many people getting over 400 let alone 500 out of their dd fiesta.(track guys this comment is not for you but I doubt most will go over 500 still)
 


RAAMaudio

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#31
I have bought and sold a few thousand things on Ebay nearly since they first started and I have 100% feedback though they do not show the complete history any longer. Many killer deals, glad you got one on the IC, nothing else is a good for the regular price then can be had at, yours was a very sweet deal:)

If you need some short straight couplings in aluminum I have some you can have but they are ends so one end might be rolled and the other plain or both plain, just have to bend a little lip up on the ends and as good as rolled but better flow, I have switched to using that method as easy to do with a cresent wrench then smooth any rough edges. I might have some Vband clamps but those are overkill if you use really good SS clamps and have rolled ends or lips like I use you can save a bit of weight. If I have clamps they are new and I would have to charge a bit for them but the couplings would be free and just pay shipping.
 


lessard.dcj

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#32
any Install guides on this. i need to know the bracketry before i do the install because this is a DD it cant be down for more than a few hours.
 


lessard.dcj

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#34
Here's the start of a five part video series on the installation:
Part 1: Mishimoto J Line FMIC Install 2014 Fiesta?: http://youtu.be/0CP0ZpCUP9U
Thanks. I saw this vid and wondered if this guy went a little crazy. He cuts half his car up just to make it fit. Then cuts the other half for fun. I just want to know if all the cutting for fitment is necessary.
 


RAAMaudio

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#35
Since I installed mine with the utmost control over air flow and had an undertray I did a lot of cutting and custom sealing so not much help for those wanting a simpler install. Others have not mentioned much about cutting anything so I would take it they had not done so or very little.

As for mounting brackets just some flat metal strips can be bent to hang over the bumper or can be bolted on but just a couple of screws would secure it decently.

Pictures of those have already been posted here of such mounting methods in this thread just down the page on this forum section:)

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/4155-Mishimoto-j-line-bolt-on-FEELER

If you end up cutting any plastic parts and want to be able to go back to stock easily later you could order new parts as not very expensive and just store them with the stock IC.
 


lessard.dcj

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#36
Since I installed mine with the utmost control over air flow and had an undertray I did a lot of cutting and custom sealing so not much help for those wanting a simpler install. Others have not mentioned much about cutting anything so I would take it they had not done so or very little.

As for mounting brackets just some flat metal strips can be bent to hang over the bumper or can be bolted on but just a couple of screws would secure it decently.

Pictures of those have already been posted here of such mounting methods in this thread just down the page on this forum section:)

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/4155-Mishimoto-j-line-bolt-on-FEELER

If you end up cutting any plastic parts and want to be able to go back to stock easily later you could order new parts as not very expensive and just store them with the stock IC.
Yea thanks Rick. I just saw this video and buddy went to town with the cutting. Got me a bit worried. I have brackets in line. Just looking to get insight on Hanibal's cutting frenzy.
 


iso100

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#37
Thanks. I saw this vid and wondered if this guy went a little crazy. He cuts half his car up just to make it fit. Then cuts the other half for fun. I just want to know if all the cutting for fitment is necessary.
Chad's car has deer damage up front so cutting was a no brainer. There's only minor interior bumper trimming required to mount it.

I'm doing my install on Saturday and will take some pictures for you.
 


RAAMaudio

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#38
Very easy mods to make it flow better which will increase the effectiveness and reduce heat soak and only takes a bit more time, maybe an hour or two at the most, takes off a bit of weight, still plenty strong.

1) lower radiator core support, use a step bit and drill holes between the grid pattern, step bit is best, easier to control depth, etc....



Also drill out the middle of the grids on the vertical support and some in the crash sensor mount as I did for much better flow through all the coolers.

I also knife shaped the leading edge of the crash beam top and bottom areas to clean up the air flow over them, you can also round over the holes drilled into it to flow better than just drilled holes.

2) from the back side of the radiator, just below it, see the foam there, carefully cut it out to allow the air to flow out from the IC after doing to drilling above.



3) If you cut out the middle of the stock (under tray) or whatever it is called and replace it with a flat piece of plastic, it was a fairly easy mod, more airflow out of the back of the IC as well. I used aluminum strap I bent to screw to the tabs left sticking out on the back of the core support and at the ends of it to mount the back of the stock under tray to support it. It was also an easy mod.



Cool thing with this was with a Triple R splitter and under tray it made a nice very easy to seal inlet in the middle of the car, under the bumper cover, above the splitter/under tray, that curves out towards the front tires. I am going to use that for my brake cooling ducts, simple to do, no cost, no added weight, get to keep the fog lights, etc.....

Sorry no picture of that, when I do the install I will take some.
 


lessard.dcj

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#40
Very easy mods to make it flow better which will increase the effectiveness and reduce heat soak and only takes a bit more time, maybe an hour or two at the most, takes off a bit of weight, still plenty strong.

1) lower radiator core support, use a step bit and drill holes between the grid pattern, step bit is best, easier to control depth, etc....



Also drill out the middle of the grids on the vertical support and some in the crash sensor mount as I did for much better flow through all the coolers.

I also knife shaped the leading edge of the crash beam top and bottom areas to clean up the air flow over them, you can also round over the holes drilled into it to flow better than just drilled holes.

2) from the back side of the radiator, just below it, see the foam there, carefully cut it out to allow the air to flow out from the IC after doing to drilling above.



3) Sorry I do not have a picture but if you cut out the middle of the stock (under tray) or whatever it is called and replace it with a flat piece of plastic, it was a fairly easy mod, more airflow out of the back of the IC as well.
Thanks Rick this helps.
 




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