Looking for flywheel locking tool

[felopr]

Hey guys
I am looking for a flywheel locking tool, anyone knows the model or a link for the item?
been searching on google but i can't find a definitive answer
Thanks

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Hey guys
I am looking for a flywheel locking tool, anyone knows the model or a link for the item?
been searching on google but i can't find a definitive answer
Thanks

For?

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[felopr]

For?

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finding a lot of timing kits without the locking tool

 

[PunkST]

http://www.massivespeedsystem.com/store/product/itmgroupdetail.aspx?groupid=59726&make=FORD

iirc the pin for the crank ( using the crank position sensor hole) is what should be keeping the bottom end in check.

send these guys an email though to be sure.
ive used their timing tools on mk1 foci without issues. And i dont see why their tool kit for the 1.6 wouldn't work just as well.

 

[felopr]

http://www.massivespeedsystem.com/store/product/itmgroupdetail.aspx?groupid=59726&make=FORD

iirc the pin for the crank ( using the crank position sensor hole) is what should be keeping the bottom end in check.

send these guys an email though to be sure.
ive used their timing tools on mk1 foci without issues. And i dont see why their tool kit for the 1.6 wouldn't work just as well.

yeah, I have been looking at their products, this one specially, but doesn't come with a flywheel locking tool
http://www.massivespeedsystem.com/_...e-timing-tool-family/mato16712/i-7541358.aspx
i guess you could use an impact gun to remove the pulley bolt and the rotate the crankshaft back to TDC if it ever moved while removing the bolt (rotate the crankshaft clockwise until it hits the pin) but i dont know if that aluminum pin could handle the 100NM of torque + a 90degree + 15degree of torque angle that requires for the torque of that bolt. The manual ask for the flywheel locking tool for that reason.
Also with this kit, the camshaft plate is longer than what the OEM one looks like, so you would need to remove 1 dowl pins to use the plate correctly, i think
the dowl pin would be the one on the lower left and the other would be on the upper left, beneath that sensor and that cover
or I could cut with a grinder that plate just before the dowl pins so I don't have to remove them... mmm

 

[PunkST]

Id just pull the dowel. Its probably easier and safer that way. You could always tighten the crank pulley back down one the engine is back together with an assistant pushing the brake pedal and the car on ramps for the front wheels. A big pain but it may work if its in gear....

https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/4275
found what you need from the UK. My guess is pull the starter to use it.
( was watching a youtube vid for someone doing timing on the non turbo 1.6 fiesta and searched the link on the parts box)

 

[bj2348]

https://www.amazon.com/DPTOOL-Engin...GM8P4H2WT3K&psc=1&refRID=AC10KMBKYGM8P4H2WT3K

This is like the one I have

 

[Sekred]

Are you changing the cam belt engine in the vehicle or timing everything during an engine assembly?

 

[felopr]

Are you changing the cam belt engine in the vehicle or timing everything during an engine assembly?

Car is giving me a p0017 code (Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation, sensor bank b, exhaust cam)
the car has like 70k miles. before the CEL appeared, I was accelerating kinda aggressively, not WOT but it made like a backfired noise
exhaust camshaft position sensor replaced, still the same
VTT exhaust phaser solenoid replaced, still the same thing
cables to the camshaft sensors, VVT phases solenoids, crankshaft sensor look mint
I haven't changed the crankshaft sensor because I need to do a "misfire monitor neutral profile correction" that I don't have access to a machine right now to do it
When I did the troubleshooting, VVT phasers error position %, intake is at 2% and exhaust is at 22%, fixed values
this % is taken from VTT phaser position actual vs desired values, they should be all the time 0%, the most 5%
Me seeing that the exhaust is at 22% fixed, tells me that is way out, probably jump a teeth
If the value were constantly changing, it would probably be a bad phaser or the solenoid bad
So, as of right now, from my troubleshooting (not really an expert, just an enthusiast guy) and my assumption, either it jump a tooth on the exhaust cam (most likely) or the crankshaft sensor is bad (not likely, since it not giving me p0016)
So, to check that I really jump a tooth I have to take the valve cover/hpfp/fuel rail/brake vacuum pump to check it with a timing plate that is installed on the end of the camshafts, install the TDC pin and lastly remove the timing belt covers, but to reach it i have to remove the serpentine belt
So if i am doing all that work just to check the timing, might as well replace the timing belt, tensioner, and the water pump since i am already there and replace the crankshaft sensor since at the end of the job, i need to do the "misfire monitor neutral profile correction" anyways, that i have no idea who could do that, apart from the dealer, maybe pepboys? I wish i had some mechanics friends with a high-end diagnostic tool
So i am trying to source the parts that i would need overtime to do the job, or pay like 1.2k+ at the dealer close to where i live, but I am not really trusting those guys, they don't inspire confidence to leave my car with them if you know what i mean
Car starts fine and accelerates fine but has a rough idle. The engine is a non-interference engine and I mostly daily drive the car so i am not really worried about damaging the engine, even if i give it some beems, the CEL doesn't give me full power

 

[PunkST]

I thought these were interference engines? ( used to my old svtf being interference)

Also is it necessary to do the crank position sensor re learn if the sensor is in good working order? ( planning a timing job due to milage myself)

 

[felopr]

I thought these were interference engines? ( used to my old svtf being interference)

Also is it necessary to do the crank position sensor re learn if the sensor is in good working order? ( planning a timing job due to milage myself)

from what I read, they are non-interference, but maybe they are? i am a tooth off and I am not accelerating the engine hard to worry about it, just some mild daily driving
the deal with this cars is that, if you touch anything that will change the harmonics of the engine ( doing any rebuild of the button end, changing the flywheel/pressure plate/clutch, removing the tranny, removing the damper bolt) or if you remove the crank sensor (that you have to if you remove the damper) you have to do it. If you don't you are gonna get some ghost misfires

 

[PunkST]

I dont think anyone that has done a clutch/flywheel job has done the re learn that ive discovered. And ive been looking for a procedure and have come up totally empty. So im a bit lost there.

 

[Ford ST]

It is a possibility but definitely not a guarantee you would have to do it.
Engines have been replaced chasing ghost misfires when all it needed was a relearn so just a possibility.

I look at it like this if you do the job and you don't have problems you're good to go. If you start having odd misfiring crap going on well you may need to do a relearn.

Long video but the relearn process does come up in the video.

View: https://youtu.be/NtaTmtQk_RY


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[PunkST]

So am i going to be able to use the home version of forscan for that? Or will i need a shop?

 

[TyphoonFiST]

It is a possibility but definitely not a guarantee you would have to do it.
Engines have been replaced chasing ghost misfires when all it needed was a relearn so just a possibility.

I look at it like this if you do the job and you don't have problems you're good to go. If you start having odd misfiring crap going on well you may need to do a relearn.

Long video but the relearn process does come up in the video.

View: https://youtu.be/NtaTmtQk_RY


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Is he using Forscan in the video?

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[felopr]

So am i going to be able to use the home version of forscan for that? Or will i need a shop?

Is he using Forscan in the video?

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He is not using forscan in the video, he is using IDS, ford diagnostic tool. He is, or was a ford master tech, he just works by himself now
you cant do it with forscan
you need a high-end diagnostic scanner that can do bilateral communication ($800+), Opus IVS or the dealer

 

[PunkST]

So in other words i may as well have a shop do all the work seeing as i cant finish the job on my own.

 

[felopr]

So in other words i may as well have a shop do all the work seeing as i cant finish the job on my own.

well, you can just do all the work, take it to someone or the dealer to do the relearn and save maybe 700 to 1k in labor but that is just me since I am mechanically inclined to do it

 

[PunkST]

Might be for the best to give that a shot. Like you said its luck of the draw.

 

[Peterson]

Car is giving me a p0017 code (Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation, sensor bank b, exhaust cam)
the car has like 70k miles. before the CEL appeared, I was accelerating kinda aggressively, not WOT but it made like a backfired noise
exhaust camshaft position sensor replaced, still the same
VTT exhaust phaser solenoid replaced, still the same thing
cables to the camshaft sensors, VVT phases solenoids, crankshaft sensor look mint
I haven't changed the crankshaft sensor because I need to do a "misfire monitor neutral profile correction" that I don't have access to a machine right now to do it
When I did the troubleshooting, VVT phasers error position %, intake is at 2% and exhaust is at 22%, fixed values
this % is taken from VTT phaser position actual vs desired values, they should be all the time 0%, the most 5%
Me seeing that the exhaust is at 22% fixed, tells me that is way out, probably jump a teeth
If the value were constantly changing, it would probably be a bad phaser or the solenoid bad
So, as of right now, from my troubleshooting (not really an expert, just an enthusiast guy) and my assumption, either it jump a tooth on the exhaust cam (most likely) or the crankshaft sensor is bad (not likely, since it not giving me p0016)
So, to check that I really jump a tooth I have to take the valve cover/hpfp/fuel rail/brake vacuum pump to check it with a timing plate that is installed on the end of the camshafts, install the TDC pin and lastly remove the timing belt covers, but to reach it i have to remove the serpentine belt
So if i am doing all that work just to check the timing, might as well replace the timing belt, tensioner, and the water pump since i am already there and replace the crankshaft sensor since at the end of the job, i need to do the "misfire monitor neutral profile correction" anyways, that i have no idea who could do that, apart from the dealer, maybe pepboys? I wish i had some mechanics friends with a high-end diagnostic tool
So i am trying to source the parts that i would need overtime to do the job, or pay like 1.2k+ at the dealer close to where i live, but I am not really trusting those guys, they don't inspire confidence to leave my car with them if you know what i mean
Car starts fine and accelerates fine but has a rough idle. The engine is a non-interference engine and I mostly daily drive the car so i am not really worried about damaging the engine, even if i give it some beems, the CEL doesn't give me full power

So what was your outcome?

2016 ST with 73k miles and out of the blue I'm pulling out of my driveway barely under load and throw 4 CEL codes. Both VVT and both Camshaft Position sensors.