Firstly, let me thank you for making a presence and responding to the concerns of those purchasing your tune and those who might purchase your tune. I must say that I find the vast majority of your response as the typical ?smoke and mirrors? tactics used by tuners and shops who want to shy away from the truth, and instead, disseminate and propagate misinformation and outright false claims all for the sake of selling a product. Here are the words I have issue with:
When speaking of your e-tune you state ?
?First, and foremost we are fully aware of how to make maximum power while maintaining reliability and safety. Those capabilities are not limited if the tuning is done remotely or on our own dyno.?
The portion I will focus on is the fact that you stated that tuning capabilities are not limited when remote (e-tune). You?re stating that whether it?s an e-tune or an in-person tune, your tunes are the very same. While this may be true, (I will let the good people here figure out why this may be the case) you?re also insinuating that OTS e-tunes are as capable, safe, and reliable as a custom tune. This is categorically FALSE. ANY calibrator will tell you this. Do you still defend this stance? If so, please elaborate on how you can magically tune a car, from which you?ve never seen a single log, to the same level other calibrators do when sitting behind the wheel of the vehicle. We are all very interested.
?There are so many aspects of what goes into a proper, oem style calibration, that if done right, it can absolutely account for every myriad of variables that one could encounter in their drives. However, one thing that people often underestimate is that all of these remote tunes do not take in for account all of the potential atmospheric variances, so often tuners are making adjustments based off of incorrect assumptions.?
Instead of spewing drivel, please actually enlighten us on
1) what magic do you use to ?take in all potential atmospheric variances?? and
2) what are these ?incorrect assumptions? other tuners make? When I read these words, I see them as they are ? FUD and smoke and mirrors. The truth is, the ECU works within specific parameters and you?re simply changing those parameters to higher or lower values. As soon as you get outside of the tolerances that are built-in by the Ford programmers and coders, you are asking the ECU to ?best guess? on how to make corrections. This is very unsafe. As far as I know, zero calibrators are pushing beyond the stock ECU limits, so you are categorically doing nothing different than any other calibrator. That said, I?m sure everyone reading would appreciate answers to my questions above.
?Now, why we use STD correction, this isn't to inflate anything. If that were the case, we would be using SAE baselines, with STD final numbers. There is no shell game going on. We just happen to know how low our dyno reads, which is why when you look at our baselines done in STD, they are often the same, or even lower than other companies SAE numbers. Because of this, we use STD as the default. We could give you SAE numbers, but these would not impact the outcome of the gains, which is what we are showcasing.?
Do you actually believe the words you typed? You would use SAE baselines if you wanted to inflate numbers? No, you would use uncorrected baselines for the lowest number possible and then STD for final numbers for highest. Do you even understand the difference between the different correction types? I?m sure you do or you?re completely inept. No, the truth is, this is more smoke and mirrors hanging on the hopes that the good people of this forum do not know the difference between the correction types. Also, you contradict yourself by saying there is no shell game, yet you know how ?low? your dyno reads. You're using the highest possible correction because you're dyno reads "low". That's a shell game. Pro-tip: Want to know how to tell when to stay away from a tuning shop? When they tell you that their dyno reads ?low?. Your dyno reads low because your numbers are low. Dynos don?t lie. Shops and calibrators do. And to say that SAE would not impact the gains, it certainly would. SAE is more realistic and real-world, even though it would only be off by 2-3%. You post STD for a reason, yet you won?t own up to it.
? Using a smoothing factor of 5 is not to hide anything but for the graph to be completely legible, and to avoid artificial spikes. Most tuners use a less aggressive smoothing setup to take advantages of power spikes and get small blips in power to use for advertising, we, however, do not operate that way. Now, as far as the power curves not being linear, or nice and smooth. If you look at the OEM curves, the are often times worse, or no better than the ones we do. Now, many of you might, or might not be aware of this, but the EcoBoost platforms all have multiple methods of controlling power output, and boost levels to achieve an exacting power output from the engine. Because of this, you will see the car oscillate slightly in a run. this is by design, to protect the engine, and ensure that it is worry free. Want it on kill, and only care about max power? you can get it smoother, but those are trade-offs that we don't make without properly educating people on the why's behind what they are seeing. But, one thing it definitely does not reflect, is the quality, or as some are implying, lack-there-of in the tune.?
I simply do not even know where to start with this quote. There is so much wrong here that it would take pages to explain. My point on the smoothing factor being set at maximum was meant to showcase one thing ? your tune looks like a patient attached to a heart monitor as far as the curves are concerned; even with the highest smoothing factor being applied. Let me make it clear:
This is NOT OK, nor is it a good tune. Yes, the OEM tunes are rough. But let me be clear about this, as well:
This IS OK on a de-tuned stock vehicle. OEM tunes are mild, safe (beyond safe, really), and do not remotely push the envelope. Higher horsepower and torque tunes REQUIRE a smooth power-band as they are pushing the envelope. You can?t AMPLIFY the bad parts of the stock tune, which your tune actually does, and tout that you?ve given your clients a safe and reliable tune. Yet, this is exactly what you expect the members here to believe. Amazing. As far as saying that a jagged tune is by design and to protect the engine....well, I?m seriously left slack-jawed that any calibrator or shop would actually utter (let alone type) those words. In any forum where there?s an educated member-base, you would be laughed off of the boards.
You?ve also not remotely explained why there?s a nearly 25ftlb torque loss at 3000 RPMs in your graph after reaching full spool.
? We spend a great deal of time working on our calibrations both on, and off the dyno as well, so the way the power comes on, and holds is blended of both to ensure it delivers exactly as intended under all situations, and this does include weather, and location/elevation based changes because we work with the OEM logic, not against it when we do tuning.?
FINALLY, you admit that you work within the parameters of the stock ECU. So, I refer you back to my questions posed above. 1) what magic do you use to ?take in all potential atmospheric variances?? and 2) what are these ?incorrect assumptions? other tuners make?
Livernois Motorsports, you truthfully are one of the very reasons people eventually distrust and dislike tuning shops. You spew disinformation, FUD, and use smoke and mirrors when called out to try and cover your ass. You rely on people being uneducated and blindly sending you their hard-earned money based off of false and inflated claims. But, the worst part is, you put their vehicles at risk by sending them a tune that is, in all truth, worse than OEM as it is simply a higher horsepower, higher torque version of the already rough OE tune. I?m very hopeful that some of the people running your tune will post logs so that all can see what?s actually going on. Oh, wait, they can?t...because your tuning device isn?t capable of logging. Is that also by design?
TL;DR ? Smoke and mirrors from this tuner; do your research.