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Lightweight Spare Tire
- Thread starter reracer
- Start date
During my aforementioned test fitting, there appeared to be (eyeballing) at least 1/4" clearance on the "face" and possibly 3/8"-1/2" clearance to the barrel. I should have snapped a pic 
Worst case, if you have a flat in the front, but the spare won't fit, switch the rear wheel to the front and use the spare on the rear (assuming the rear BBK clears)
Worst case, if you have a flat in the front, but the spare won't fit, switch the rear wheel to the front and use the spare on the rear (assuming the rear BBK clears
)EDITED! wrong specs where I first found the tire, it is 22.4" in diameter, have to do this all over again and looking more into 16's to help make sure to clear the BBK's. (I run 15x9 over them now but a very close fit)
----------------------
I found a great substitute for a light weight spare tire, a REAL tire at 12lb....and 23" diameter just like my summer tires, race tires(not that it matters since I have 6 race wheels and tires and will be close to the 16" I get for when I drop down from 17 to 16" for all seasons.
STOCK PICTURE: Actual size in the link is 145/65/15
I know it is far from a performance tire but I do not need it for that, just to get someplace to get a flat fixed or order in a replacement, etc...whatever, running none standard stuff means more things to consider and I like to be prepared.
http://https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?AFFCODE=AD5&tireMake=Continental&tireModel=ContiEcoContact+EP&partnum=465TR5EC&i1_Qty=4&i1_Qty=4
Now to find an aluminum 15x4-5" rim in 4x100 first to make sure it fits my BBK but I can use a pretty thick spacer if needed as have long race studs installed.
Though I am all about saving weight, as likely noted 100+times on the forum, I am also inclined to carry a spare I could actually drive on a bit further and faster than the normal compact spare.
----------------------
I found a great substitute for a light weight spare tire, a REAL tire at 12lb....and 23" diameter just like my summer tires, race tires(not that it matters since I have 6 race wheels and tires and will be close to the 16" I get for when I drop down from 17 to 16" for all seasons.
STOCK PICTURE: Actual size in the link is 145/65/15
I know it is far from a performance tire but I do not need it for that, just to get someplace to get a flat fixed or order in a replacement, etc...whatever, running none standard stuff means more things to consider and I like to be prepared.
http://https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?AFFCODE=AD5&tireMake=Continental&tireModel=ContiEcoContact+EP&partnum=465TR5EC&i1_Qty=4&i1_Qty=4
Now to find an aluminum 15x4-5" rim in 4x100 first to make sure it fits my BBK but I can use a pretty thick spacer if needed as have long race studs installed.
Though I am all about saving weight, as likely noted 100+times on the forum, I am also inclined to carry a spare I could actually drive on a bit further and faster than the normal compact spare.
Found this, pretty decent tire, Yokohama Envigor 175/60/15, high perf all season, 15lbs, now need to find a REALLY light 5" wide wheel.
Some of the stock 14's were under 10 lbs, some 15's were 11-12 lbs.....but 6" wide which is OK on that tire but I want to save all the space I can as it will be flipped and have a higher end 10" sub in it, quick release of course
Racing Hart CP-035, forged, 15x6, +38mm offset, 7.9lbs!!!!!! not likely to find just one but sure will look!
Sparco Viper R, 15x6.5, 9lbs but likely not able to find just one.
I have found a few others but all forged and nuts expensive if you can even find them.....
I can get this wheel in 15x7, roll formed, 10lbs, $127!
Or this one, 11lbs, $112, roll formed as well and I have ten of them for my summer and race wheels in 15x9.
Problem is finding a really light tire to match but I have been seriously looking at getting a set of these to use for all seasons but no tire I really wanted to put on them, there is a better tire in 16" and I would love to have 16x8's as in the new TD being worked on.
I might just say screw the whole weight savings deal, at least super low weight, and get one of the Konigs shown and stretch a spare tire onto it but wait, the tires shown and the 10 lb wheel is just 25lbs, barely more than an emergency spare!
And still room to flip and put the sub in it, just have to put the amp further forward over the axle.
Some of the stock 14's were under 10 lbs, some 15's were 11-12 lbs.....but 6" wide which is OK on that tire but I want to save all the space I can as it will be flipped and have a higher end 10" sub in it, quick release of course
Racing Hart CP-035, forged, 15x6, +38mm offset, 7.9lbs!!!!!! not likely to find just one but sure will look!
Sparco Viper R, 15x6.5, 9lbs but likely not able to find just one.
I have found a few others but all forged and nuts expensive if you can even find them.....
I can get this wheel in 15x7, roll formed, 10lbs, $127!
Or this one, 11lbs, $112, roll formed as well and I have ten of them for my summer and race wheels in 15x9.
Problem is finding a really light tire to match but I have been seriously looking at getting a set of these to use for all seasons but no tire I really wanted to put on them, there is a better tire in 16" and I would love to have 16x8's as in the new TD being worked on.
I might just say screw the whole weight savings deal, at least super low weight, and get one of the Konigs shown and stretch a spare tire onto it but wait, the tires shown and the 10 lb wheel is just 25lbs, barely more than an emergency spare!
And still room to flip and put the sub in it, just have to put the amp further forward over the axle.
During my aforementioned test fitting, there appeared to be (eyeballing) at least 1/4" clearance on the "face" and possibly 3/8"-1/2" clearance to the barrel. I should have snapped a pic
Worst case, if you have a flat in the front, but the spare won't fit, switch the rear wheel to the front and use the spare on the rear (assuming the rear BBK clears)
Worst case, if you have a flat in the front, but the spare won't fit, switch the rear wheel to the front and use the spare on the rear (assuming the rear BBK clears
)
I think I have this worked out.
Stock wheels and tires, 42+ lbs(long gone)
My summer setup, 15x9 Konig Helix, 13.4lbs, 225/45/15 Rival S, 20lbs, total weight 33.4lbs
My race setup, 15x9 Konig Helix, 13.4lbs, 225/45/15 Toyo RA1, shaved, approx 20lbs, total weight 33.4lbs
My all season setup, 17x7 Konig Feather, 16.8lbs, Mich PS-3 AS 202/45/17, 21lbs, total weight 37.8lbs
------------
I think I will go this route:
New all season setup and spare tire, 15x7 Konig Helix, 11lbs, Kuma 4X II, 195/55/15, 18lbs, total weight 29lbs
Lighter than current all seasons by 4.4lbs per corner, total saved 17.2 lbs and enhances all aspects of performance and better ride quality.
Spare tire is 29lbs, minus 17.2 savings above total weight added is 11.8lbs compared to current AS setup without a spare and I will have a full size spare matching the rest of the tires and the weight back there will help balance the car.
AND, all my tires would be so close in diameter I can use any of them on any corner and drive at any speed safely as far as I would need to go.
-------------------
I have not weighed my car in quite some time, more mods, added and removed weight, etc...but it likely is around the same the last time weighed which was 2572lbs with 1/2 tank of fuel.
Taking weight off has always been the way to make a car faster in all aspects, as long as done right of course, taking a light weight car like ours and taking weight off makes a bigger percentage difference than heavier cars so even more pronounced improvements.
For those not into such things that is fine of course but for those that are then it means a great deal and not "because racecar" but because it enhances the car everywhere, all the time and a better handling and quicker responding car is also a safer car in emergency situations in the real world of driving
--------------
Lighter weight wheels and tires are the single most important performance mod one can do as they effect all aspects of performance and put less load on the chassis which means less wear on all associated parts plus ride better.
Example of weight saved per setup over stock.
Stock 42+ lbs, 17 AS Mich, 37.8, 4.2lbs each, 16.8lbs total and something you can immediately feel.
Stock 42+lbs, Race or summer setup, 33.4lbs, 8.6lbs each, 34.4 lbs, incredible improvement over stock weight
Stock 42+lbs, New AS setup, 29lbs each, 13lbs each, 52 lbs!!!!!
-------------
Edit:
I am also considering the 185/55/15 4X II, saves 4 more total lbs but also the same diameter as the race tires, summer tires, etc....23" instead of the 23.4" diameter of the 195 but only .2" narrower tread and .3" section width.
This will induce a bit more stretch which is better to have a decent amount, not super stretched, for all out handling but for inclement weather best to not have to much stretch, a bit of sidewall flex can help in traction and lessen the quickness of inputs which can upset the grip.
Markings on the tire are not precise, you have to look up the real specs as they round up, down and sometimes do not even come close to the real numbers.
Narrower tires are better in slippery situations, more PSI on the ground, less tendency to float above the surface, etc.....
Stock wheels and tires, 42+ lbs(long gone)
My summer setup, 15x9 Konig Helix, 13.4lbs, 225/45/15 Rival S, 20lbs, total weight 33.4lbs
My race setup, 15x9 Konig Helix, 13.4lbs, 225/45/15 Toyo RA1, shaved, approx 20lbs, total weight 33.4lbs
My all season setup, 17x7 Konig Feather, 16.8lbs, Mich PS-3 AS 202/45/17, 21lbs, total weight 37.8lbs
------------
I think I will go this route:
New all season setup and spare tire, 15x7 Konig Helix, 11lbs, Kuma 4X II, 195/55/15, 18lbs, total weight 29lbs
Lighter than current all seasons by 4.4lbs per corner, total saved 17.2 lbs and enhances all aspects of performance and better ride quality.
Spare tire is 29lbs, minus 17.2 savings above total weight added is 11.8lbs compared to current AS setup without a spare and I will have a full size spare matching the rest of the tires and the weight back there will help balance the car.
AND, all my tires would be so close in diameter I can use any of them on any corner and drive at any speed safely as far as I would need to go.
-------------------
I have not weighed my car in quite some time, more mods, added and removed weight, etc...but it likely is around the same the last time weighed which was 2572lbs with 1/2 tank of fuel.
Taking weight off has always been the way to make a car faster in all aspects, as long as done right of course, taking a light weight car like ours and taking weight off makes a bigger percentage difference than heavier cars so even more pronounced improvements.
For those not into such things that is fine of course but for those that are then it means a great deal and not "because racecar" but because it enhances the car everywhere, all the time and a better handling and quicker responding car is also a safer car in emergency situations in the real world of driving
--------------
Lighter weight wheels and tires are the single most important performance mod one can do as they effect all aspects of performance and put less load on the chassis which means less wear on all associated parts plus ride better.
Example of weight saved per setup over stock.
Stock 42+ lbs, 17 AS Mich, 37.8, 4.2lbs each, 16.8lbs total and something you can immediately feel.
Stock 42+lbs, Race or summer setup, 33.4lbs, 8.6lbs each, 34.4 lbs, incredible improvement over stock weight
Stock 42+lbs, New AS setup, 29lbs each, 13lbs each, 52 lbs!!!!!
-------------
Edit:
I am also considering the 185/55/15 4X II, saves 4 more total lbs but also the same diameter as the race tires, summer tires, etc....23" instead of the 23.4" diameter of the 195 but only .2" narrower tread and .3" section width.
This will induce a bit more stretch which is better to have a decent amount, not super stretched, for all out handling but for inclement weather best to not have to much stretch, a bit of sidewall flex can help in traction and lessen the quickness of inputs which can upset the grip.
Markings on the tire are not precise, you have to look up the real specs as they round up, down and sometimes do not even come close to the real numbers.
Narrower tires are better in slippery situations, more PSI on the ground, less tendency to float above the surface, etc.....
OEM Alloy Wheel tool kit has a different Jack with lug wrench sitting on top foam piece. The Jack mounts with the spares retaining pin unlike the ST where each have separate retraining pins. Might save some weight on the flimsier jack especially if you could find a light weight lug wrench to replace the steel one. Wouldn't have bothered, but I could get the spare to clear the factory jack.
Shorter retaining nut is helpful. The white one is for the alloy spare the longer black on is from the ST.
Shorter retaining nut is helpful. The white one is for the alloy spare the longer black on is from the ST.
Fiesta jack position with the washer on jack lined up with the top hole of the mount which is different from the way the ST is mounted.
You can ditch the heavy tire iron of the Fiesta and use the one that came with the ST as it is much lighter. The foam just needs to be trimmed for it to fit. The foam insert is held down around the tire iron with a thick rubber band that attaches to the hook of spare tire retainer. Somehow the puppy got it and it either ate or hide it, so it is not in the picture.
You can ditch the heavy tire iron of the Fiesta and use the one that came with the ST as it is much lighter. The foam just needs to be trimmed for it to fit. The foam insert is held down around the tire iron with a thick rubber band that attaches to the hook of spare tire retainer. Somehow the puppy got it and it either ate or hide it, so it is not in the picture.
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