I did the race package:
You'll need a set of metric sockets, a jack, and stands.
The rear torsion bar was a piece of cake. It took more time to get the car on stands than it did to install. If it's a tight fit use the bolts (without the lock washers in order to give more thread bite) to "walk" the bar into the axel and, then, pull them out to install the lock washers and tighten. I used the street version to add some roll stiffness but I may update to the race version.
The strut tower brace wasn't too bad. You'll need skinny fingers to get at the rear strut nuts but that's par for the course in modern cars. I *really* don't like the way the driver's side mounts. You can try to level the mounting surface a tad with the included washers, but I'm probably going to pull mine off and get the Monotune version. I'd install it with the wheels loaded to avoid the strut hats from walking around.
I have the 6-point lower brace - I think that the street version of PM's kits comes with the 4-point. My install was a bit of a PITA, but for the right reasons. My cross member was shifted such that I had to loosen all of the bolts and use a hunk of teflon dowel to pry to x-member back to where it belonged in order to install the brace. You won't have this problem with the 4-point. Because the brace rigidly locates the x-member to the chassis I really like it - no more crooked steering wheel after hard autocross runs.
Now, some uninvited advice:
Get the torsion bar - I like the way it helps the car to rotate, cheap, easy install.
Get a different strut tower brace for the reasons I stated above. Or, buy mine and I'll get a different brace!
Get the 6-point lower brace *or* the 2-point. I don't think that the 4-point does anything over the 2-point. And, again, I love my 6-point.