INSTALLED - Meister R Coilovers/ Impressions, Pics, Etc.

[MeisterR]

I don't think I asked this. What about someone who is bagged and is interested in just your shocks/struts and is looking for better control over an air spring?

That is a broad questions.
Bagged (air springs) change springs rate depend on it's internal pressure.
So or you to do vehicle dynamic calculation on them is quite difficult.

The MeisterR ZetaCRD do well because we match the dampers to work with the paired springs.
When you throw a bag on, this calculation goes out the window.

Certainly, we can make a system work.
But there are a lot of little bits to consider if you want a system to work well, so it isn't going to be a bolt on and forget job I imagine.

Jerrick

 

[M-Sport fan]

The biggest advantage is it's very high heat index (almost double that of normal high heat index oil), and that mean the viscosity of the oil remain stable through a wider range of temperature.

Did you mean to say "high viscosity index" for the bolded above??

That is usually the term used for fluids which have a very large range of operating temps, on BOTH the cold temp, AND high temp sides.

 

[Crooked Letta]

Did you mean to say "high viscosity index" for the bolded above??

That is usually the term used for fluids which have a very large range of operating temps, on BOTH the cold temp, AND high temp sides.

May be referring to cavitation properties possibly.

 

[MeisterR]

Did you mean to say "high viscosity index" for the bolded above??

That is usually the term used for fluids which have a very large range of operating temps, on BOTH the cold temp, AND high temp sides.

We always use the term heat index, but it just might be different terms use with different engineer in different country.
You know as they call them... "Old Money".

I just double check the specs sheet on the oil and you are right, it is viscosity index.
The oil we use on the GT1 have a 345 VI rating, most other oil I see on the market for "cars dampers" normally is around the 180's mark

We have been using this oil for years, as it works very well in rally application dampers.
So we stuck with it because it is consistent and we know it will take any abuse you want to throw at it.

Jerrick

 

[StuttersC]

That is a broad questions.
Bagged (air springs) change springs rate depend on it's internal pressure.
So or you to do vehicle dynamic calculation on them is quite difficult.

The MeisterR ZetaCRD do well because we match the dampers to work with the paired springs.
When you throw a bag on, this calculation goes out the window.

Certainly, we can make a system work.
But there are a lot of little bits to consider if you want a system to work well, so it isn't going to be a bolt on and forget job I imagine.

Jerrick

Thanks. I typically drive at a specific pressure most of the time. Increasing the pressure raises the height, it also increases the "rate". Fully inflated is ridiculous.

I've driven short distances fully inflated (in or out of the garage) to wash the car. Sometimes I do drive at a lower pressure to lower the car a little, but I'm willing to bet the normal drive height and the lowered height are within your range of adjustment on the spring perches. It is figuring out the "rate" at those pressures that I have no way of doing.

 

[parapraxis24]

Tightened everything again today and so far it isn't making any noises. We redid the rear entirely since that was the spot of the most noise. Loosened everything up then jacked the beam up to simulate it being on the ground and then tightened everything again. Did the same for the sway links up front and that seems to have fixed that as well.

Also softened the fronts one click and that seems to have made going over the enormous speed bumps around me much nicer.

Really happy with this purchase and hopefully I can fit in getting an alignment this week.

 

[MeisterR]

Thanks. I typically drive at a specific pressure most of the time. Increasing the pressure raises the height, it also increases the "rate". Fully inflated is ridiculous.

I've driven short distances fully inflated (in or out of the garage) to wash the car. Sometimes I do drive at a lower pressure to lower the car a little, but I'm willing to bet the normal drive height and the lowered height are within your range of adjustment on the spring perches. It is figuring out the "rate" at those pressures that I have no way of doing.

Yep, and that is the problem.
So say we have the damper valved for 5kg/mm, we don't know what rate the bag is running.
If it was running at a pressure equal to 3kg/mm, the damper will be over valved.
If you increase the pressure and it function as a 6kg/mm springs, the damper will now be under valved.
You can make adjustment within the range, but it is still a bit of hit or miss.

The rate should be provided by the "air bag" manufacturer.
But as I have said, it does change.

If you ask me, should it work? Probably.
But I can't say it will work 100% because I don't have any solid data to back it up.
And I don't like making promises that I cannot keep.

That is my honest opinion so to speak.

Jerrick

 

[MeisterR]

Tightened everything again today and so far it isn't making any noises. We redid the rear entirely since that was the spot of the most noise. Loosened everything up then jacked the beam up to simulate it being on the ground and then tightened everything again. Did the same for the sway links up front and that seems to have fixed that as well.

Also softened the fronts one click and that seems to have made going over the enormous speed bumps around me much nicer.

Really happy with this purchase and hopefully I can fit in getting an alignment this week.

Good to hear that.
Sometime chasing noise is difficult as it could be anything.
Glad it was a simple re-torquing fix.

Let us know how it goes after the alignment then.

Jerrick

 

[StuttersC]

Yep, and that is the problem.
So say we have the damper valved for 5kg/mm, we don't know what rate the bag is running.
If it was running at a pressure equal to 3kg/mm, the damper will be over valved.
If you increase the pressure and it function as a 6kg/mm springs, the damper will now be under valved.
You can make adjustment within the range, but it is still a bit of hit or miss.

The rate should be provided by the "air bag" manufacturer.
But as I have said, it does change.

If you ask me, should it work? Probably.
But I can't say it will work 100% because I don't have any solid data to back it up.
And I don't like making promises that I cannot keep.

That is my honest opinion so to speak.

Jerrick

Jerrick,

I appreciate the info. Thanks!

 

[PhoenixM3]

Different car, and different "spec" Zeta-R in this case... but dayum, there is a reason why Nurburgring "proven" is such a powerful marketing tagline. Just coils, r-comps, and dtc-60 pads will lead to blowing doors off other cars.

[video=youtube;RnBGhaBGwLk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnBGhaBGwLk[/video]

Nice, right up to the point where he passed on the right, twice.

 

[M-Sport fan]

What is the current FiST record, factory stock and fully 'time attack' modded??

 

[parapraxis24]

Got an alignment today, and fortunately Kauffman didn't notice that I installed coilovers since the last time I used them for an alignment (May), so it was free of charge under their one year warranty

Surprisingly it wasn't too bad, the front toe was way out, but the camber was within spec and within .2 degrees of each other up front but they put them back even. Although for whatever reason they didn't adjust the rear camber at all. They're sitting at -.8 and -.1 driver/passenger, I don't think it will make much of a difference but I'd like to hear your thoughts.

Also, still no clunking

Now to wait until November for the next AutoX so I can see what these are really made of.

 

[LilPartyBox]

funny, my toe was off too. Glad to hear ur clunk is gone. ur gonna love the setup!

 

[KKaWing]

The rear is essentially not adjustable without hours of work hacking at the torsion beam.

 

[Crooked Letta]

The rear is essentially not adjustable without hours of work hacking at the torsion beam.

You could possibly fabricate a shim for the hub as well.

 

[KKaWing]

Wheel speed sensor reads from inside the hub. A shim would put it out of alignment, and there's no reliable way of positioning the sensor correctly after a shim is used.

 

[Crooked Letta]

Wheel speed sensor reads from inside the hub. A shim would put it out of alignment, and there's no reliable way of positioning the sensor correctly after a shim is used.

I see that now looking at shop manual, still have yet to get my ST on the lift, but soon

 

[M-Sport fan]

Wheel speed sensor reads from inside the hub. A shim would put it out of alignment, and there's no reliable way of positioning the sensor correctly after a shim is used.

That is why Rick (RAAM Audio) had to go through that whole rigamarole in order to camber and toe his rear wheels without shims.

 

[parapraxis24]

Kinda sucks that the rear isn't adjustable, but at least the thrust angle is 0 so it should have minimal effect in handling. At least according to the very little knowledge I have on the subject.


Oh, and now with a proper alignment and having let the suspension fully settle (plus fixing clunks) jesus it's like a Fiesta ST GTS or something now.


I decided to stick with -8 front/-10 rear from full hard, and it's wonderful. I did lower the fronts to -9, and while it's still really nice to drive, -8 is better and you don't give up hardly any ride comfort for the stiffer setting.

I just wish the driver's side was easier to get to, that stupid brake fluid reservoir is in such a terrible location.

 

[WeTheNorth]

Finally got them


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