INSTALLED - Meister R Coilovers/ Impressions, Pics, Etc.

[VirtualRonin]

Rear damper adjustment now accessible from the top.

Simply peel back the rear cargo carpeting to access rear adjustment.

These are awesome updates! Thanks for sharing [emoji1303]

I'll need to get a set of the rear shocks with the new adjustment location.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MeisterR]

Bring this back up to date as I have been working on many different project.
But I have not forgot about the Fiesta and have been doing a few cool things with it.

The updated version with the rear top adjuster that Koozy had has been something we worked on a while back.
And we spend some time working on our custom made GT1 version with our new Staggered Double Digressive Valve (SDDV)

More details are here: https://www.fiestastforum.com/threa...ve-sddv-for-gt1-clubrade-gt1-coilovers.22446/

Here is a video from our tester in Australia doing a Hill Climb finishing 1st in class.

View: https://youtu.be/REDrS0jtnwE


Jerrick

 

[LilPartyBox]

These are awesome updates! Thanks for sharing [emoji1303]

I'll need to get a set of the rear shocks with the new adjustment location.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm due for new dampers so this is great news!

 

[Lays]

I really want to buy a set of these, they seem like so much better of a bargain compared to fortune, bc, etc.

My primary use is daily spirited driving, but I do a lot of autocross, would the default 5k 3k spring rate be just fine?

I have a full bolt on dyno tuned 2015 ST with 17x8 konig hypergrams and a TB traction bar.

 

[kivnul]

The 5/3 works fine for me in autox. I would consider slightly stiffer both front & back but as a Daily Driver with Crap Roads, I think the 5/3 is a good balance.

 

[texaspaul]

The 5/3 works fine for me in autox. I would consider slightly stiffer both front & back but as a Daily Driver with Crap Roads, I think the 5/3 is a good balance.

Do you find it less willing to rotate than stock? On paper it seems to be proportionally less firm in the rear with 5/3.

 

[kivnul]

Do you find it less willing to rotate than stock? On paper it seems to be proportionally less firm in the rear with 5/3.

That is a very hard question to answer as I have a boatload of mods at this point. If I wrack my brain, I think the car does rotate less willingly with the coils vs without. Having said that, I do not have any problem getting the back to rotate when I want to and people I have had ride along or co-drive love how willing it is to rotate.

 

[MeisterR]

The 5/3 is around the right balance for a fast road car.

I think for a track car, you can go up to about a 8/6 if you are using the OEM springs location.
We also made a prototype using a rear coilover (putting the springs directly on the damper), and 8/5 work out for that one.

For your usage, 5/3 works great.
It will be responsive enough for you to have fun at Auto-X on stiffer damping, but compliant enough on the road where you will be using the car 95% of the time.

Jerrick

 

[Mr.Steel]

I know this thread is old by now, but I wanna know how close this suspension can get to stock height, as I’m looking at getting 215/40/R17 tires to better cover my 17x7.5 rims. If anybody has measurements from ground to wheel arc that would be great. As mine are,
FL - 24&1/2 in.
FR - 24&1/2 in.
RL - 24&3/4 in.
RR - 24&1/2 in.
(74000 miles Stock Suspension)

 

[Mr.Steel]

Okay Update, I decided to just rip it and purchased the CRDs, they do go all the way up to factory height and a little more found that out the hard way when I lifted the front to 25”. After that we lowered it back down to 24&1/4. Rears are still a bit on the high side at 24&7/8 but it’s all good. My first experience with coilovers and I have no complaints. Only issue is small amount of clunking at slow speed bumps from there being metal to metal contact at the upper spring perch but it’s mellowed out over the course of the week. And last but not least I set dampeners to (from full soft) Front-16 clicks and Rear-18 clicks. I want to reduce the rear by 1 because at highway speeds (70-80) if hit a bump is transfers well but is a bit stiff and you notice it. But I also could just raise the fronts by 1 anywho at these setting the car is stiff without being harsh and the car takes bumps very well now
P.S. The ride height settles another 1/4 after driving it around a few days. Hopes this helps and gl

 

[Mr.Steel]

Oh I forgot one last thing I bumped up tire size to 215/40/R17 from the 205 to protect the rims a bit more since new rims are 17x7.5 and ride quality for me is a lot better because it helps smooth out smaller bumps and divots in the road IMO, can’t say to much on turn in and cornering as I don’t drive the car as nearly as hard as other people do on this forum, but it more or less feels the same to me DD wise

 

[Dpro]

Okay Update, I decided to just rip it and purchased the CRDs, they do go all the way up to factory height and a little more found that out the hard way when I lifted the front to 25”. After that we lowered it back down to 24&1/4. Rears are still a bit on the high side at 24&7/8 but it’s all good. My first experience with coilovers and I have no complaints. Only issue is small amount of clunking at slow speed bumps from there being metal to metal contact at the upper spring perch but it’s mellowed out over the course of the week. And last but not least I set dampeners to (from full soft) Front-16 clicks and Rear-18 clicks. I want to reduce the rear by 1 because at highway speeds (70-80) if hit a bump is transfers well but is a bit stiff and you notice it. But I also could just raise the fronts by 1 anywho at these setting the car is stiff without being harsh and the car takes bumps very well now
P.S. The ride height settles another 1/4 after driving it around a few days. Hopes this helps and gl

That sounds like a spring preload issue. Been there experienced it . Meister R has instructions for proper spring pre load you should not be clunking.

Ya MeisterR’s on my car for several years now.

 

[Mr.Steel]

That sounds like a spring preload issue. Been there experienced it . Meister R has instructions for proper spring pre load you should not be clunking.

Ya MeisterR’s on my car for several years now.

I’ve actually never changed the preload from factory and what feeling were you talking about? Just since I’m new to all this stuff. I also had my seats down and heard the jack bouncing around, and I think that’s the source of my clunking? As it only ever came from my passenger side.

 

[Dpro]

I’ve actually never changed the preload from factory and what feeling were you talking about? Just since I’m new to all this stuff. I also had my seats down and heard the jack bouncing around, and I think that’s the source of my clunking? As it only ever came from my passenger side.

Well even though it my be set at the factory one never goes with that as there always a chance someone missed something.. I am not sure what you mean by the jack bouncing around either. Did you follow MeisterR’s instructions? They specifically mention making sure your pre load is correct and tell you what it should be.
Plus I did not say anything about feeling beyond responding to your comment you were getting clunking noise that’s usually a preload issue . I actually had it as well till I double checked my preload and reset it.

 

[Mr.Steel]

Well even though it my be set at the factory one never goes with that as there always a chance someone missed something.. I am not sure what you mean by the jack bouncing around either. Did you follow MeisterR’s instructions? They specifically mention making sure your pre load is correct and tell you what it should be.
Plus I did not say anything about feeling beyond responding to your comment you were getting clunking noise that’s usually a preload issue . I actually had it as well till I double checked my preload and reset it.

Oh ok thank you, I’ll check it tomorrow when I get the chance.

 

[New_Daily]

Also possibly check the torque on the locking nut on the spherical bearings on the fronts. meister says to do this with the car on the ground. It’s a 17 mm and I was able to slip the socket over the top of the adjusters without removing them, but I did have to remove the cowling if I remember correctly (i think). Meister didn’t have a torque spec to give me just good n tight without going crazy on them. I also had a clunk that went away when i tightened these.

 

[Mr.Steel]

Ok tbh we didn’t have to adjust preload much about a quarter inch of threading, but the real culprit was the locking collar for the dampener was loose on the passenger side. And the front struts for me were already good (thank you for bringing that up though). Now everything’s good and settled. Thank you guys very much.

 

[kivnul]

I kept having the locking collars loosen up over time. You may want to check them after a bit.

 

[Mr.Steel]

I kept having the locking collars loosen up over time. You may want to check them after a bit.

Ok I’ll keep an eye on it, thank you for the heads up

 

[foodtruck]

After eternity of back and forth, pulled the trigger on a set which should arrive next week.

A bit worried about the spherical bearing... I read people sometimes put a thin rubber gasket between the body and the top hat, does that help in any way with any potential harshness or is it just cargo cult?