Initial Track Outing

[ansibe]

My first track day in the new FiST, and it was excellent!

The motor is big on mid and low rpm power, to the detriment of top end. The track (TMP Cayuga) is slow, slow the extra mid range power was probably more helpful than top end anyway. Even so, the car is pretty quick, staying with ecoboost and v6 Mustangs, and just losing out to an RS. I'm very happy, no immediate plans to upgrade. I had no over-heating problems, but it was a bit cool (20C) and my runs were short, maybe 20 min at the longest.

I'm on 205/45-16 Conti Extreme Contact Sports, and they worked very well. I ran 39/36 psi hot, but the fronts were still rolling over a bit. Grip is very comparable to MPSS. The car pushes, but not terribly, and the back end will come around gently. I only managed to get -1.2 camber, so the push and rollover are not too surprising. I think I'll try slotting the struts to get -2 or so.

EBC Yellow and OE fluid was ok, pedal just a bit soft. My brakes seem a bit dead now, hopefully bleeding will bring them back.

There were some strange bangs when hitting curbs. Maybe the wheels were slightly off the ground, has anybody else heard that? Spring and dampers are stock.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Do you ever open track the RS as well?

 

[ansibe]

Absolutely the RS gets tracked. It's a fantastic track car: balanced, good brakes, decent power. Plus there's something else which is hard to define. It gives you so much confidence, you just drive harder.

I've had mustangs that were way faster with just as much grip as the RS. On paper there is no competition between a modern mustang (S197 coyote, or s550) and a FoRS. The reality for us regular drivers is very different. I drove my Mustang at 9/10, and the RS at 11/10! It's more fun, and just feels right. The FiST is closer to the RS, very confidence inspiring but with a bit less composure. It's also way cheaper!

If I'm honest, the FiST is nearly as much fun as the FoRS, but at lower speed. It also seems a little more fragile. The RS just shrugs off abuse - nail the brakes just a little late, pin the throttle way before your driving instructor thinks it's a good idea, slam into curbs!

I must seem like a hooligan, bit I'm really not. I only take these sort of risks on the track, and then only when I'm clear of other cars.

 

[sidewaysallday]

I've banged some curbs in my stock suspension FiST and haven't heard anything too irregular. Maybe you were compressing the shock all the way and just hearing the aftermath? I'm not too sure, but glad you enjoyed your car on the track! I'd definitely get that OE brake fluid out of there in favor of some RBF600/660 especially if you're staying on the stock brake calipers/rubber hoses

 

[ansibe]

The strut and bottom mount are fixed, and the cam on the camber bolt pushes the wheel hub inward, increasing neg camber. The cam on the bolts can only be as big as the hole in the strut, so I don't think different bolts will help.

Anyway, that's how I think camber bolts work. if I'm wrong please tell me.

I can set -2.25 on the left side, but only -1.2 on the right, so the camber is available on my car, just not on both sides! Maybe I should just loosen all the strut mounting bolts on the right side, push everything to the max neg camber position, and re-tighten. even a couple extra tenths would help.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Also, as many on here have already stated, you want MORE negative camber on the PASSENGER side than the driver's side, to compensate for your weight when in the car.

 

[ansibe]

I don't really get that.

When turning left, the car will stay flatter because driver weight is on the inside. The outside (passenger) tire will have less relative load, so should need less neg camber. When you're turning right, your weight is outside so the car's roll is exaggerated. You need more camber to compensate.

My driver side front tire takes a beating at the tracks I visit. They're all clockwise, and 2 of the 3 are very safe (no walls), so I can really push the car. The other, Mosport, is hellaciously fast with walls and trees to slow you down when you make a 'mistake'.

I get that as Mac Strut suspension compresses, neg camber usually increases. Is that what you're referring to, aligning the car equal left to right when the driver is installed?