So I ended up going with the GTX2860R because track days are coming up and there's still not much info on the X57.
I spoke with Ron at Whoosh about both the Tial and Turbosmart WGAs - but since there wasn't a ton of difference ended up going with the Tial to match my BOV.
(In case you want to stop reading here - go with the Turbosmar) .... (That being said - Tial support was frickin awesome.)
So the Tial MVI WGA won't slide into the mount without disassembly. This is a bit of a downside as per Tial:
We would suggest using caution if attempting to disassemble the MVI 2.5 in the field, as they are not really designed to do so without proper tooling to unload the spring structure in advance.
In the case of a 'straight' actuator stem, this can be done with some simple hardware that you may have access to. If it's a 'bent' stem, it's going to be very difficult to do this without specialized tooling.
But hey, I'm an "engineer". (Ok, a network engineer....) I got this - no worries.
Long story short, it's not that big of a pain in the ass. But it's something that would've been exponentially easier with a bit of info going into it. So hopefully this helps someone else down the line.
Overall Concept:
The MVI is held together by the aluminum locking ring connecting the upper and lower halves. There's a pair of springs inside, along with a rubber 'top hat' gasket that sits on the piston connected the rod. The bent and studs will not make it into the mount the the turbo, so you'll have to pull it apart and slide the rod in while it's disassembled.
Step 1 - Getting the bastard apart.
Since you can't mount it up to the turbo to use it as the tool, you're going to be fighting friction. It's a bitch. Now that I've disassembled it once, I'd suggest mounting it up (gently! It's aluminum, so be sure to protect.) in a vice and having a friend pull down on the actuator arm to remove pressure from the housing. But I didn't, and still got it apart. However, I did manage to scratch the housing because I'm occasionally ham fisted. Pro tip: don't use a rag and channel locks.
!!!!!! DISCLAIMER: YOUR WGA IS UNDER TENSION BECAUSE THERE'S A BIG ASS SPRING IN THERE. DON'T PUT YOUR EYE OUT.!!!!!!
Step 2 - Disassembly
Congrats, you got the bastard apart. There's really not a whole lot going on here. Just a pair of springs, a piston, and a gasket.
You really don't have to disassemble much - just enough so you can slide the rod into the bracket.
Step 3 - Reassembly
If you have no idea what you're doing - this is a giant PITA. But read further, and it's simple.
So go ahead and slide the arm into the bracket and mount up the lower half of the WGA. Just finger tight is fine. Now, shorten the turnbuckle on the arm significantly. (Enough that it'll compress the springs in the housing so you can easily reassemble.) Without the gasket installed, start compressing the piston. Pay special attention to the inner spring, as that guy will have a bit of trouble seating on the machined perch. I used an 8mm wrench to give it a nudge, and it all lined up. Once you can slip the eyelet over the wastegate flapper arm, do that and you're almost home. From there, replace the rubber top hat gasket over the piston. Slide the top half of the WGA over and align your vacuum ports to where you want them. (I chose the side port, as that should minimize the amount of vacuum line going to the boost control solenoid.) Tial recommends Loctite on the vacuum bung, but since they're vacuum, I chose soft set pipe thread sealant (Rectorseal #5 - a bit unfortunate name...). In theory, that should prevent any loosening, while also preventing any leaks. Plug the unused port with the supplied blanking bolt (Uses an odd size - T27. And torque specs are estimated at 0.5 Ugga Dugga's). After that, gently start tightening the aluminum locking collar. It should go on with very little force - don't cross thread it. You might have to compress the spring a bit more (just shorten the turnbuckle) if there's too much resistance.
Step 4 - Wrapping it up
Once your WGA is compressed and put back together. Go ahead and slide the turnbuckle eyelet off the flapper arm. You can now apply some blue loctite to the mounting studs and tighten those up. (Again, 0.5 UD's.) I haven't quite worked out where the actuator arm should be adjusted to. I'm going get with Mitch over at CP-E and I'll update this with some better info on setting the WGA arm length. There's a mechanical locking nut here, so I'm doubting any Loctite should be required, but I might swap that one out for a Nylock nut.
I've got a few more opinions on this ATP kit, but I'll save those for a different thread..
Would like to mention two outstanding companies here:
Whoosh Motorsports ([MENTION]ron@woosh[/MENTION]) for price, shipping, and support
And Tial. Even though the Turbosmart option might be plug and play. They were super responsive and helpful. 10/10 would recommend.
Oh, one last thing. Here's the official word from Tial.
[HR][/HR]
I spoke with Ron at Whoosh about both the Tial and Turbosmart WGAs - but since there wasn't a ton of difference ended up going with the Tial to match my BOV.
(In case you want to stop reading here - go with the Turbosmar) .... (That being said - Tial support was frickin awesome.)
So the Tial MVI WGA won't slide into the mount without disassembly. This is a bit of a downside as per Tial:
We would suggest using caution if attempting to disassemble the MVI 2.5 in the field, as they are not really designed to do so without proper tooling to unload the spring structure in advance.
In the case of a 'straight' actuator stem, this can be done with some simple hardware that you may have access to. If it's a 'bent' stem, it's going to be very difficult to do this without specialized tooling.
But hey, I'm an "engineer". (Ok, a network engineer....) I got this - no worries.
Long story short, it's not that big of a pain in the ass. But it's something that would've been exponentially easier with a bit of info going into it. So hopefully this helps someone else down the line.
Overall Concept:
The MVI is held together by the aluminum locking ring connecting the upper and lower halves. There's a pair of springs inside, along with a rubber 'top hat' gasket that sits on the piston connected the rod. The bent and studs will not make it into the mount the the turbo, so you'll have to pull it apart and slide the rod in while it's disassembled.
Step 1 - Getting the bastard apart.
Since you can't mount it up to the turbo to use it as the tool, you're going to be fighting friction. It's a bitch. Now that I've disassembled it once, I'd suggest mounting it up (gently! It's aluminum, so be sure to protect.) in a vice and having a friend pull down on the actuator arm to remove pressure from the housing. But I didn't, and still got it apart. However, I did manage to scratch the housing because I'm occasionally ham fisted. Pro tip: don't use a rag and channel locks.
!!!!!! DISCLAIMER: YOUR WGA IS UNDER TENSION BECAUSE THERE'S A BIG ASS SPRING IN THERE. DON'T PUT YOUR EYE OUT.!!!!!!
Step 2 - Disassembly
Congrats, you got the bastard apart. There's really not a whole lot going on here. Just a pair of springs, a piston, and a gasket.
You really don't have to disassemble much - just enough so you can slide the rod into the bracket.
Step 3 - Reassembly
If you have no idea what you're doing - this is a giant PITA. But read further, and it's simple.
So go ahead and slide the arm into the bracket and mount up the lower half of the WGA. Just finger tight is fine. Now, shorten the turnbuckle on the arm significantly. (Enough that it'll compress the springs in the housing so you can easily reassemble.) Without the gasket installed, start compressing the piston. Pay special attention to the inner spring, as that guy will have a bit of trouble seating on the machined perch. I used an 8mm wrench to give it a nudge, and it all lined up. Once you can slip the eyelet over the wastegate flapper arm, do that and you're almost home. From there, replace the rubber top hat gasket over the piston. Slide the top half of the WGA over and align your vacuum ports to where you want them. (I chose the side port, as that should minimize the amount of vacuum line going to the boost control solenoid.) Tial recommends Loctite on the vacuum bung, but since they're vacuum, I chose soft set pipe thread sealant (Rectorseal #5 - a bit unfortunate name...). In theory, that should prevent any loosening, while also preventing any leaks. Plug the unused port with the supplied blanking bolt (Uses an odd size - T27. And torque specs are estimated at 0.5 Ugga Dugga's). After that, gently start tightening the aluminum locking collar. It should go on with very little force - don't cross thread it. You might have to compress the spring a bit more (just shorten the turnbuckle) if there's too much resistance.
Step 4 - Wrapping it up
Once your WGA is compressed and put back together. Go ahead and slide the turnbuckle eyelet off the flapper arm. You can now apply some blue loctite to the mounting studs and tighten those up. (Again, 0.5 UD's.) I haven't quite worked out where the actuator arm should be adjusted to. I'm going get with Mitch over at CP-E and I'll update this with some better info on setting the WGA arm length. There's a mechanical locking nut here, so I'm doubting any Loctite should be required, but I might swap that one out for a Nylock nut.
I've got a few more opinions on this ATP kit, but I'll save those for a different thread..
Would like to mention two outstanding companies here:
Whoosh Motorsports ([MENTION]ron@woosh[/MENTION]) for price, shipping, and support
And Tial. Even though the Turbosmart option might be plug and play. They were super responsive and helpful. 10/10 would recommend.
Oh, one last thing. Here's the official word from Tial.
[HR][/HR]
![[thumb]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumb.gif "Thumbs Up [thumb]"){kind=icon}
![[biggrin]](/images/smilies/biggrin.gif "Big Grin [biggrin]")
![[loveboost]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_iloveboost.gif "Love Boost [loveboost]"){kind=icon}
The only negative is that you will have to remove the Turbo in order to do a good install and set pre-load correctly as it sits against the motor side not the Firewall side of the Turbo on a Garrett.....![[bawling]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_bawling.gif "Bawling [bawling]"){kind=icon}
