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How-To: Remove your turbocharger

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Sourskittle

Sourskittle

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Thread Starter #21
The heat shield or the actually turbine housing? Both can be done while leaving the turbo in the car. You break a downpipe bolt?
 


lessard.dcj

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#22
yes. after over an hour of working it slow. i have the new DP on with just 2 bolts, another member said thats what he did and its holding up without leaking.
 


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Thread Starter #23
Yea. Mine stripped its self out. I ran a tap through it to clean the threads and replaced the bolt. M8 1.25 I think.
 


rodmoe

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#26
Clamp is loose and ALL bolts on top removed ??

just a question have you removed the cowling ? it helps a ton and is like 6 clips and two bolts after the wipers are off..
 


lessard.dcj

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#27
yea its out and so is the turbo. but im fncked on getting the bolt out as i was drilling it my cobalt bit snapped off inside. i think i need a welder to weld on a bolt and try that way
 


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Thread Starter #29
I think your a little far out for me to help.... Sorry...
 


JPGC

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#31
yes. after over an hour of working it slow. i have the new DP on with just 2 bolts, another member said thats what he did and its holding up without leaking.
Lol, just saw this. That is me running the 2 bolts still. No leaks so far. Hopefully I don't have to do what your doing until I decide to replace the turbo.
 


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#32
I don't raise it in the back :)
My harbor freight jack slides under the front bumper and i lift it from the center cross member. It lifts the entire front of the car in one motion. I put the jack stands by some bolts for the suspension on each side. Sorry. I should have shown that. I'll get pics of it soon :)
LoL although a 2.5ton jack COULD lift the whole car. In case you wanted a really funny picture XD
 


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Sourskittle

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Thread Starter #33
I just had to reference my own "how-to", lol. Its been a while since I pulled the turbo, doing it today. I was thinking about "go-pro"ing it, but I don't have the head mount thingy :(
 


westcoaST

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#34
Good job SS. For everyone having problems with the three bolts that attach the downpipe to the manifold, as well as the O2 sensors. I found the best way to get these off is to get the engine hot, raise it up on jackstands and hit them with alot of PB Blaster. I did this on a Friday night, then let the car sit until next morning before I tried tackling these bolts. Removing the wipers, cowl, and headlights on Friday really frees up the back part of the engine. Then tackle the rest on Saturday. I used nickel based anti-seize to make getting these bolts and sensors off again, next time, easier. Chasing the threads on the manifold also helps reinstallation.
 


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Sourskittle

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Thread Starter #35


M8x 1.25 def helps.
I've ran a tap through about 5 of these turbine housings and I've seen about 2 holes that were not distorted. A tap straightens them up really nicely. Just.... DO NOT BREAK THE TAP OFF.

My friend just did the 137k mile forrester turbo on his car, and I had him spray PB blaster on all the bolts while it was hot and cold for about 3 days before, and he told me every bolt came off clean without issues. That's amazing if you've ever worked on a high mileage turbo setup.
 


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Thread Starter #36
I have a magnetic base for my go-pro. I'm going to see about maybe video-ing it from the back of the hood facing down at the turbo...
 


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Thread Starter #37
I tried to GO-PRO it, but my battery was dead when I set it up. I don't know if I got a bad go-pro or what. I charged it all last night, it sat in my car while I was at work and then when I tried to use it, it was dead... Anyway... I got the stock turbo swapped back on. I hate the stock turbo :<
 


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#38
I tried to GO-PRO it, but my battery was dead when I set it up. I don't know if I got a bad go-pro or what. I charged it all last night, it sat in my car while I was at work and then when I tried to use it, it was dead... Anyway... I got the stock turbo swapped back on. I hate the stock turbo :<
Did I miss something? Why did you swap back to the stock turbo?
 


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Thread Starter #39
I had a core with 10k miles on it sitting around and I wanted to see the insides of the cyborg turbo. We are going to go through it tomorrow and see how the thrust bearing and shaft bearing is wearing.

When we looked at both of them on the bench ( 10k mile stocker vs 10-11k mile cyborg ) the first thing we noticed is the stock turbo actually had more shaft play than the cyborg did with the same amount of miles. We also found zero oil in the compressor housing inlet or outlet. The turbine blades look almost exactly like when I installed it about 6 months ago...

Looks like its getting a good health review so far.

In the mean time, I did some tuning on the stock with good and bad results. The wifi I steal from the apartment clubhouse is not connecting right now, lol, so when I get some wifi, I'm going to upload some V-dyno comparisons. Best I could do is 211whp and 324tq at 29.40psi on the stock turbo, but i'll post all that blah blah blah stuff in my "for sale" thread as it helps show where you come from, to where you could be.
 


rodmoe

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#40
FYI GO Pro hero 3's love to eat batteries and if you happen to leave wifi on it likes batteries even more LOL
 


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