Holy crap look! Ic pipes.

[re-rx7]

Milky oil in ic pipes!? Could it be ic icing? Cobb ic installed. Input?

 

[felopr]

no catchcan? maybe

 

[re-rx7]

Vta catch can installed. This wouldn't have anything to do with catch can though.

 

[Sourskittle]

Maybe you pulled some water at some point...

 

[razorlab]

That is water in the oil.

Could be from coolant, could be from moisture.

Is your catch can hooked up correctly? Bad PCV or some other reason why moisture is not being pulled out of the crankcase could cause this.

You need suction for that action to happen (moisture getting pulled out of the crankcase). Again, make sure you correctly hooked up your catch can.

I've seen more incorrect catch can installs than correct ones over the years.

 

[re-rx7]

That is water in the oil.

Could be from coolant, could be from moisture.

Is your catch can hooked up correctly? Bad PCV or some other reason why moisture is not being pulled out of the crankcase could cause this.

You need suction for that action to happen (moisture getting pulled out of the crankcase). Again, make sure you correctly hooked up your catch can.

I've seen more incorrect catch can installs than correct ones over the years.

Mine is vta. Basically capped off the part where it connects to the upper im and routed the Pcv to a catch can with a vent filter.
Basically there is no way oil/vaccuum can get to the ic pipes. Just did oil change, oil looks fine.

 

[JPGC]

Is that looking into the passenger side of the intercooler? I can't say that I have oil in there, but I can say that when I removed my Boomba bov adaptor I had oil residue all over the adaptor an the area around it where it was venting. I wasn't coming from the driver's side vent into the intake because that and the intake tubing itself was dry. It would seem that the residue that you are getting is coming from the same place that mine was before it was vented out.

 

[re-rx7]

This was looking into the drivers side rubber ic tube toward the ic. It may have been residual from before I installed the vta oil catch can. The drivers side was just oily. Now this tells me that it could be condensation from the ic mixing with the oil.

 

[JPGC]

In that case, yeah, it does sound like it was the residue running down the pipe back into the intercooler.

 

[Sourskittle]

22k incredibly hard miles and my passenger and driver side pipe was dead dry, with no catch can. Take that for what ever you want, just giving ya what I saw. It has not been colder than 40 degrees here, so maybe that's a difference...?

 

[JPGC]

Hopefully mine is the same ( dry) the next time I pull things apart.

 

[Sourskittle]

I expected oil. I would NOT have expected water... I was lucky and surprised it was dry. My srt4 had oil in the cold pipe at 5500 miles.

 

[D1JL]

Ford expects this to happen.
Here is the step-by-step from the manual on cleaning the intercooler.




Charge Air Cooler (CAC) Cleaning

1. NOTE: Do not use a high-pressure power washer to clean the CAC (Charge Air Cooler) or damage to the CAC may occur.

NOTE: Drain all contaminates such as coolant, fuel and oil prior to cleaning the CAC.

NOTE: Thoroughly clean the joint clamp areas as well as the turbocharger connection, engine connection and the CAC connections, using metal brake parts cleaner.

Lay the CAC flat with the inlet and outlet ports pointing up.

2. NOTE: Plug or cap the CAC openings prior to agitating.

3. Add an appropriate amount of commercially available detergent cleaner such as Simple Green Pro HD, or equivalent to the CAC. Follow the manufacturer's directions for cleaning. Fill the CAC to 40% of its volume with water.

4. Raise one end of the CAC and agitate it by hand for at least 5 minutes.

5. Raise the opposite end of the CAC and agitate it by hand for at least 5 minutes.

6. Drain the CAC.

7. Flush the CAC thoroughly with clean water.

8. Repeat Steps 1 through 6 until no contaminates are found in the flush water.

9. Allow the CAC to air dry.

10. NOTE: The following leak test steps must be performed prior to installing the CAC.

NOTE: Use a commercially available kit, such as the Johnson Manufacturing Company Charge Air Cooler Test Set Part No. 351-CAS, or equivalent.

Install the commercially available CAC cooler tester on the CAC following the manufacturer's installation instructions.

11. Tighten the clamps to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).

12. WARNING: Never exceed the specified pressure. Excessive pressure may cause the test adapter to blow off or may damage the charge air cooler (CAC). Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury.

Slowly apply air pressure to 150 kPa (22 psi).

13. Let the CAC stand for a few minutes and note any loss in pressure.

14. Release the air pressure.

15. Repeat Steps 12 through 14 as many times as necessary to verify the readings. The reading is considered verified when 3 consecutive tests show approximately the same pressure drop.

16. If the pressure loss exceeds 10 kPa (1.5 psi) per minute, install a new CAC.
Refer to: Charge Air Cooler (CAC) (303-12B Intake Air Distribution and Filtering - 1.6L EcoBoost (132kW/180PS) - Sigma, Removal and Installation).




Dave

 

[re-rx7]

22k incredibly hard miles and my passenger and driver side pipe was dead dry, with no catch can. Take that for what ever you want, just giving ya what I saw. It has not been colder than 40 degrees here, so maybe that's a difference...?

Quite possibly that is the difference. When it gets cold enough the hot air running through the ic will condense by the time it gets to the other side. This would be the reason why it's only happening on the cold side of the ic. The Volkswagen guys have it really bad. This could also be the reason for small ic on these cars. Heat.

 

[Sekred]

Mine is vta. Basically capped off the part where it connects to the upper im and routed the Pcv to a catch can with a vent filter.
Basically there is no way oil/vaccuum can get to the ic pipes. Just did oil change, oil looks fine.

Hi rx7

Got any pics of your VTA system.
You mention that you have blocked off the inlet manifold connection from the PCV valve and vented the PCV valve to atmosphere, what have you done with the other part of the system, the line that connects the valve cover to the intake tube before the turbocharger?.

 

[re-rx7]

Hi rx7

Got any pics of your VTA system.
You mention that you have blocked off the inlet manifold connection from the PCV valve and vented the PCV valve to atmosphere, what have you done with the other part of the system, the line that connects the valve cover to the intake tube before the turbocharger?.

Not used. Used rubber hose to connect the Pcv to the catch. Basically it. I found a rubber cap at oreillys that fit over the inlet on top of the Im and capped it using a hose clamp. So basically the pcv vents directly to the can. I'll snap a few.

 

[Sekred]

Not used. Used rubber hose to connect the Pcv to the catch. Basically it. I found a rubber cap at oreillys that fit over the inlet on top of the Im and capped it using a hose clamp. So basically the pcv vents directly to the can. I'll snap a few.

Ok, I got exactly what you have done now. I am no expert on VTA systems but from my understanding usually the PCV system and the PCV valve are removed or capped. The other hose from the valve cover that used to been part of the system is now run to a VTA catch can and this is the hose used to vent the crankcase fumes.
This is because the actual PCV valve itself acts like a orifice and is design to control flow. Your intake manifold vacuum can reach around 24in/hg, which is a lot higher than needed to draw in crankcase fumes. The PCV valve acts like a restriction to control this vacuum and hence the amount of flow.
With a VTA system and without the vacuum from the intake manifold, the crankcase fumes now vent when pressure builds up from the blow by gases . You do not want any kind of restriction in this vent line (like a PCV valve). This is the reason why the other line is used from the valve cover and not the PVC line, (my understanding anyway).

 

[re-rx7]

Ok, I got exactly what you have done now. I am no expert on VTA systems but from my understanding usually the PCV system and the PCV valve are removed or capped. The other hose from the valve cover that used to been part of the system is now run to a VTA catch can and this is the hose used to vent the crankcase fumes.
This is because the actual PCV valve itself acts like a orifice and is design to control flow. Your intake manifold vacuum can reach around 24in/hg, which is a lot higher than needed to draw in crankcase fumes. The PCV valve acts like a restriction to control this vacuum and hence the amount of flow.
With a VTA system and without the vacuum from the intake manifold, the crankcase fumes now vent when pressure builds up from the blow by gases . You do not want any kind of restriction in this vent line (like a PCV valve). This is the reason why the other line is used from the valve cover and not the PVC line, (my understanding anyway).

Exactly. With the Pcv locked into the valve cover it's hard to remove. Looking into it. Like I said I basically just vent from the pcv.
Same as this
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/1052-DIY-Oil-Catch-Can-Install-(Baffled)

 

[Sekred]

I would try and monitor where that oil and moisture (condensation?) came from anyway.
The only oil I have found in my system and I have had the IC pipes and the IC off a few times, was tramped in the donut thing after the turbo. Its a little strange because the intake tube before the turbo was bone dry. It was almost like leakage past the piston ring seal for the compressor wheel.

 

[re-rx7]

I would try and monitor where that oil and moisture (condensation?) came from anyway.
The only oil I have found in my system and I have had the IC pipes and the IC off a few times, was tramped in the donut thing after the turbo. Its a little strange because the intake tube before the turbo was bone dry. It was almost like leakage past the piston ring seal for the compressor wheel.

I'd like more feedback from colder climates on this issue. To condensate it will have to be cool. Sounds like on yours it's sneaking past the cold side turbo seal. Some oil can be expected. With mine a little oil mixed with water looks like a big mess