High Mileage Owners Chime in regarding intake valve deposits.

TemecFist

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#61
I just watched Legitstreetcars video on cleaning the carbon on a Mercedes v-12 with over a 100k miles. It was ugly to say the least, not only did the valves have loads of carbon, but the intake runners were nasty with baked on oil from the PVC and EGR systems. From working on the 2.5 24 valve Duratec Contour and the 4.6 Mod motor I can say from personnel experience that a catch can makes a difference.
A catch can on a 4.6 mod motor? Does that apply to the 2v? I have (2) cars with 4.6 2v mod motors. Interesting.
 


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#63
NOACK rating from 2003 looking for newer information. Remember 7 or less for a direct injected engine.
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TemecFist

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#66
MSport is the guy to ask about this. He knows all the NOACK's and what not. From talking to him, I believe that Amsoil is good, and Ravenol is even better. I just came off Amsoil, it didn't do so well for me, but that was with E30 and meth. I'm running Royal Purple XPR now, but switching to the Ravenol as well.
 


Intuit

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#68
Depends on who pays for what test LoL. /advertisement
 


M-Sport fan

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#70
The Amsoil Sig Series 5W-30 is one of the lowest NOACK number oils anywhere, only beat by their Signature Series 10W-30.

But along with a low NOACK, you also want a low SAPS, and calcium, oil as well for turbo direct injected engines.

Red Line's white bottle oils, as great as they are in base stock composition and high content useful additive package numbers, and very good NOACK numbers, are fairly high in SAPS, and very high in calcium specifically, which you do not want in a TGDI engine.

The exception from Red Line (unless they revamped their WHOLE white bottle lineup to lower SAPS and calcium, since last I checked) is their Euro blend oils, which are purposely built with very low SAPS.
 


TemecFist

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#72
The Amsoil Sig Series 5W-30 is one of the lowest NOACK number oils anywhere, only beat by their Signature Series 10W-30.

But along with a low NOACK, you also want a low SAPS, and calcium, oil as well for turbo direct injected engines.

Red Line's white bottle oils, as great as they are in base stock composition and high content useful additive package numbers, and very good NOACK numbers, are fairly high in SAPS, and very high in calcium specifically, which you do not want in a TGDI engine.

The exception from Red Line (unless they revamped their WHOLE white bottle lineup to lower SAPS and calcium, since last I checked) is their Euro blend oils, which are purposely built with very low SAPS.
Which of those Ravenols would you recommend?
 


jmrtsus

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#75
Whether an OCC works is as simple as asking does it catch oil, LOL! If it has oil in it that was oil that did not hit your valves. My Damond works well and easy to drain.
 


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