If you have both the UPR Valve and Boomba Valve, can you do a comparison? I'd like to know the difference between the two valves...
Both of them are good check valves, and that's what you're mainly looking for. My MAP adapter kept throwing a code. Every time, I'd pull the white plastic check valve out and blow in the direction of flow. The check valve took more force than it's supposed to to open, meaning that it was sticking closed and throwing a code. Each time, I'd pour a little alcohol through the valve and it'd clean out and work like it's supposed to, until it stuck closed again. The valve should open simply from the suction put on it by the intake, and since it was sticking, it'd pop a code. That valve was poorly made and couldn't handle the environment, and would gum up. So I bought the UPR on a whim, just to try it. I figured while I was at it, I might as well eliminate that silly pointless boost leak line that runs from the cold charge pipe, as I'd read about others doing on here. No issues since, and I've put thousands of miles on this combo. However, IF by some chance you throw a P144C code, all you have to do is reset KAM (Keep Alive Memory) in your Cobb AP, and the code will go away. Then you need to probably clean your check valve, cuz I guarantee it's sticking closed, causing the code to pop up. I'd experiment further, but since mine doesn't pop codes, I don't really see a need to. Hope this helps a little.