I'm getting rid of my drill jig because I have no use for it now, as I already drilled my hubs. It worked great and want to offer it up to someone going the DIY route. Honestly, this isn't the easiest process, so I want no surprises for anyone who is interested in doing this. Not that it's very hard but it's long and tedious. I'd rate the difficulty a 6/10. If changing your oil, or installing a front mount is a tall order, then you probably wouldn't feel comfortable using this.
That being said, I'll include the directions and help anyone that buys this in anyway I can.
The quick and dirty of how this thing works
1)Remove wheel
2)Slide jig onto studs
3)Tighten down your lugs on the jig
4)Drill the 1/4 in pilot hole through brakes and hub
5)Remove jig/rotate 90 degrees and bolt back down
6)Drill 1/2 hole through the previous pilot hole already drilled
7)Rinse and repeat
What you'll need to start drilling
1)1/4" drill bit
2)1/2" drill bit
3)A good electric drill
4)Cuting oil for lube
5)***A new 1/2" drill bushing*** Size:1/2" inner diameter, 3/4" outer diameter and longer than 2 inches
***I have a 1/2" bushing already installed, but as you can see in the pictures it's too short. It worked for me but I already had my holes rather large, but even then I broke 2 bits.***
Why did I even switch out the bushing? Because the original jig is set up to drill smaller studs than ours.
So there are two ways to do this. You can buy this "as is" and replace the bushing yourself. Or if you'd like, I'll buy the proper bushing and press it in myself before I ship it. It will add a few days to the wait and probably around $30 to the original price for the bushing.
Note: You may have to grind your rear studs slightly to relocate to the new holes. There's a clearance issue with the rear dust brake/bearing assembly. Maybe someone has a safer alternative but as of right now I think I'm the only one who drilled these while still on the car. Obviously, both drilling and pressing in the studs is much easier while off the car.
Buying as is= $50 Shipped
Buying the jig and me ordering/pressing in the correct bushing=$80 Shipped
As you can see you can also do a 114 conversion (just switch the bushings to the other 2 holes)
My car after the conversion
That being said, I'll include the directions and help anyone that buys this in anyway I can.
The quick and dirty of how this thing works
1)Remove wheel
2)Slide jig onto studs
3)Tighten down your lugs on the jig
4)Drill the 1/4 in pilot hole through brakes and hub
5)Remove jig/rotate 90 degrees and bolt back down
6)Drill 1/2 hole through the previous pilot hole already drilled
7)Rinse and repeat
What you'll need to start drilling
1)1/4" drill bit
2)1/2" drill bit
3)A good electric drill
4)Cuting oil for lube
5)***A new 1/2" drill bushing*** Size:1/2" inner diameter, 3/4" outer diameter and longer than 2 inches
***I have a 1/2" bushing already installed, but as you can see in the pictures it's too short. It worked for me but I already had my holes rather large, but even then I broke 2 bits.***
Why did I even switch out the bushing? Because the original jig is set up to drill smaller studs than ours.
So there are two ways to do this. You can buy this "as is" and replace the bushing yourself. Or if you'd like, I'll buy the proper bushing and press it in myself before I ship it. It will add a few days to the wait and probably around $30 to the original price for the bushing.
Note: You may have to grind your rear studs slightly to relocate to the new holes. There's a clearance issue with the rear dust brake/bearing assembly. Maybe someone has a safer alternative but as of right now I think I'm the only one who drilled these while still on the car. Obviously, both drilling and pressing in the studs is much easier while off the car.
Buying as is= $50 Shipped
Buying the jig and me ordering/pressing in the correct bushing=$80 Shipped
As you can see you can also do a 114 conversion (just switch the bushings to the other 2 holes)
My car after the conversion
