Flowmaster Delta Boost module - 4 psi boost gain for $239

[M0LTEN]

http://www.turbotransformer.com/

I don't have experience with the module you are asking about.
I do have experience with the turbotransformer module. I have had it for a couple of years and still use it with my stratified tune.
There website goes on to explain how it works and the fueling questions you have.
This has been out there for awhile and is another option. But in the end you will probably just want to get the AP.

 

[danbfree]

http://www.turbotransformer.com/

I don't have experience with the module you are asking about.
I do have experience with the turbotransformer module. I have had it for a couple of years and still use it with my stratified tune.
There website goes on to explain how it works and the fueling questions you have.
This has been out there for awhile and is another option. But in the end you will probably just want to get the AP.

Good stuff... Like I thought, the ECU does recognize the extra boost and air flow and adjusts accordingly... But I'm starting to see how limited that is and going with the AP to start with its certainly best... It's just with our small stock turbo limiting tuning to begin with I figure I could get get most of the gains for half the price or less.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[rherrero]

Power gains are also seen in the form of increased ignition timing advance which this device will not provide. Additionally, the ECU tries to achieve a requested torque value relative to the driver's inputs and that torque value is achieved by the ECU manipulating much more than just boost pressure, though that is one of it's main control methods for torque.

By simply forcing the boost pressure to be something specific the device is limiting the ECUs ability to achieve the requested torque value to it's best ability.

Sent from my LGUS997 using Tapatalk

 

[alexwlwsn]

Getting the most from your mods and breaking something are 2 different things...

When tuning a car, you tune it to be healthy and have the proper AFR, spark, etc... and as a product of that you get power as a resuly. You tune to run right, not to run powerfully.

 

[danbfree]

When tuning a car, you tune it to be healthy and have the proper AFR, spark, etc... and as a product of that you get power as a resuly. You tune to run right, not to run powerfully.

Absolutely, including best efficiency too...

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[danbfree]

Power gains are also seen in the form of increased ignition timing advance which this device will not provide. Additionally, the ECU tries to achieve a requested torque value relative to the driver's inputs and that torque value is achieved by the ECU manipulating much more than just boost pressure, though that is one of it's main control methods for torque.

By simply forcing the boost pressure to be something specific the device is limiting the ECUs ability to achieve the requested torque value to it's best ability.

Sent from my LGUS997 using Tapatalk

This makes sense... Sure, the ECU can try to adjust for the extra boost but then it can take away potentially other adjustments it can make too.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[Dirttwurk]

Power gains are also seen in the form of increased ignition timing advance which this device will not provide. Additionally, the ECU tries to achieve a requested torque value relative to the driver's inputs and that torque value is achieved by the ECU manipulating much more than just boost pressure, though that is one of it's main control methods for torque.

By simply forcing the boost pressure to be something specific the device is limiting the ECUs ability to achieve the requested torque value to it's best ability.

Sent from my LGUS997 using Tapatalk

^^^ This is pretty much my thoughts on it.

 

[Tanaboon]

I'll give a very simple answer from a novice POV.

There's always risk when modifying your car. An accessport is the safest risk. You're going to be making changes to the way your engine works.

An accessport will let you monitor pretty much everything going on in your car. Having to reflash and uninstall before dealership fixes/inspections is just a small sacrifice we all make for more power in our cars.

You're not going to make that much more power without an AP. The most changes you can do without wanting to void your warranty are QOL changes like wheels, tires, suspension, etc.

99% of the community vouches for the Cobb AP. Most of us haven't even heard of this flowmaster device. This should speak for itself imo.

 

[rherrero]

This makes sense... Sure, the ECU can try to adjust for the extra boost but then it can take away potentially other adjustments it can make too.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Yes the ECU will still make changes to those variables, however only within the scope of what is specified in its maps. When you receive a 're-map', the tuner is adjusting many values in the tables the ECU references to get the safest increase in power, not just boost, which will not always be the ECUs choice to increase power especially in partial throttle scenarios.

Sent from my LGUS997 using Tapatalk

 

[apex1]

I'll give a very simple answer from a novice POV. Having to reflash and uninstall before dealership fixes/inspections is just a small sacrifice we all make for more power in our cars.

I am not sure Tanaboon if you are implying that by uninstalling the AP before you visit a dealer you avoid having your warranty voided. Because you don't. As is explained in depth by the Ford guidance to dealers linked to above (and in a separate thread), the dealer will know that your ECU was reprogrammed, even if you uninstall your AP. That is a fact. And note that I have installed an AP with a Stratified E30 tune on my 2017. Life is short and these motors have proven to be very stout. As far as the OP questions go, I hit just over 22 psi of boost totally stock. If you add 4 psi, you are cramming over 26 psi into your cylinders with a possibly limited ability for your ECU to monitor all parameters and make necessary corrections. I get nervous now hitting 26+ psi with my Stratified tune on a very regular basis, although I spoke with Alex and he assured me it is safe. I always use a slot limited to 15 psi until oil and coolant temps come up, something impossible to monitor with your stock car. As others here have said, it just does not seem worth it.

 

[Tanaboon]

I am not sure Tanaboon if you are implying that by uninstalling the AP before you visit a dealer you avoid having your warranty voided. Because you don't. As is explained in depth by the Ford guidance to dealers linked to above (and in a separate thread), the dealer will know that your ECU was reprogrammed, even if you uninstall your AP. That is a fact. And note that I have installed an AP with a Stratified E30 tune on my 2017. Life is short and these motors have proven to be very stout. As far as the OP questions go, I hit just over 22 psi of boost totally stock. If you add 4 psi, you are cramming over 26 psi into your cylinders with a possibly limited ability for your ECU to monitor all parameters and make necessary corrections. I get nervous now hitting 26+ psi with my Stratified tune on a very regular basis, although I spoke with Alex and he assured me it is safe. I always use a slot limited to 15 psi until oil and coolant temps come up, something impossible to monitor with your stock car. As others here have said, it just does not seem worth it.

TIL, Thanks. This is my first re-flashed care and I haven't had to bring it in to the dealer or for inspection yet.

 

[danbfree]

I am not sure Tanaboon if you are implying that by uninstalling the AP before you visit a dealer you avoid having your warranty voided. Because you don't. As is explained in depth by the Ford guidance to dealers linked to above (and in a separate thread), the dealer will know that your ECU was reprogrammed, even if you uninstall your AP. That is a fact. And note that I have installed an AP with a Stratified E30 tune on my 2017. Life is short and these motors have proven to be very stout. As far as the OP questions go, I hit just over 22 psi of boost totally stock. If you add 4 psi, you are cramming over 26 psi into your cylinders with a possibly limited ability for your ECU to monitor all parameters and make necessary corrections. I get nervous now hitting 26+ psi with my Stratified tune on a very regular basis, although I spoke with Alex and he assured me it is safe. I always use a slot limited to 15 psi until oil and coolant temps come up, something impossible to monitor with your stock car. As others here have said, it just does not seem worth it.

You can't quote straight up boost numbers as it simply varies on ambient and whatnot too much... I go out when it's 40 degrees out, can't get past 18 psi, doesn't need any more to make the HP called for so the ECU backs off.. I go out when it's 65 (the warmest it's been since I've owned it) and the boost will hit 22 to make up for the thinner air, not sure why you worry so much what the experts have programmed everything for... Also, not sure why you worry about slots for warming up, it's not that hard to drive easy for the first 5 minutes and with full synthetic oil not sure why oil temp matters, it's gonna fully flow with a minimum of warm-up... Also, this is my 2nd modern DI-T and they both seem to limit boost until warmed up, these modern ECU's are quite sophisticated.

Anyway, it's been good to get some opinions on this, I now agree that it worth just getting an AP just for the most tweaking and flexibility for future use. I don't think this Flowmaster device is "dangerous", per se, I just want to tweak things even more in the future.

 

[Tanaboon]

You can't quote straight up boost numbers as it simply varies on ambient and whatnot too much... I go out when it's 40 degrees out, can't get past 18 psi, doesn't need any more to make the HP called for so the ECU backs off.. I go out when it's 65 (the warmest it's been since I've owned it) and the boost will hit 22 to make up for the thinner air, not sure why you worry so much what the experts have programmed everything for... Also, not sure why you worry about slots for warming up, it's not that hard to drive easy for the first 5 minutes and with full synthetic oil not sure why oil temp matters, it's gonna fully flow with a minimum of warm-up... Also, this is my 2nd modern DI-T and they both seem to limit boost until warmed up, these modern ECU's are quite sophisticated.

Anyway, it's been good to get some opinions on this, I now agree that it worth just getting an AP just for the most tweaking and flexibility for future use. I don't think this Flowmaster device is "dangerous", per se, I just want to tweak things even more in the future.

I think you got the right idea. The Fiesta is a fun to drive car. The AP will let you tweak more so the fun factor will fit to your liking.

When you get your AP I hope ya enjoy it

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Dirttwurk]

no problem

 

[me32]

no problem

Best point of this whole thread

 

[apex1]

Also, not sure why you worry about slots for warming up, it's not that hard to drive easy for the first 5 minutes

Spoken by someone who does not own an AP and, therefore, is not driving with the 93 octane E30 Stratified tune I drive with every day. Thanks for setting me straight.

 

[Hijinx]

Spoken by someone who does not own an AP and, therefore, is not driving with the 93 octane E30 Stratified tune I drive with every day. Thanks for setting me straight.

I’m not sure why you’d need “warm up” slots either.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[HBEcoBeaST]

My buddy is running a Flowmaster Delta Boost Performance Tuner on his 2017 3.5L Ecoboost F150. Gains were definitely noticeable but not day/night. He's been running it since last year no problems. Not sure he's ever taken it off even for maintenance. The claimed +4psi 18hp 25ft lbs are the exact some numbers on the catalog for the F150 and the FiSt. Wonder if that's a typo or they do the same thing on all motors?

This device is the same thing as the Burger Tuning JB1 piggybacks popular on BMWs and VWs. The piggyback modules basically just trick your sensors into thinking everything is within proper parameters while allowing for more boost, airflow and sometimes fuel. Your ECU adjusts accordingly. Since the simplicity of the system, they are generally VERY conservative to keep your motor safe. Power gains are also conservative as well.

For platforms where an AP isn't available, these piggybacks are popular since the only other option usually involves a $$$ custom Dyno tune that is 'stuck' on your car until you go back to the tuner.

Also since they trick your sensors, supposedly all the parameters on any ecu data digging would come up normal. That's how they are 'untraceable'.



FWIW I have an extended powertrain warranty and choose to run an AP with E30 tune.


Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[apex1]

I’m not sure why you’d need “warm up” slots either.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The warm-up slots are just Stratified's boost-limited eco tunes, which limit boost to a max 15 psi. Alex did one for my 93 tune and one for my E30 tune. With 5 slots in a single file, you have the option to run several configurations that you can change almost instantly. The Stratified tunes build boost with lightning speed compared to stock. My short road ends at an intersection with a 50 mph road, where people travel well over 50 mph. Even trying to be super gentle on the throttle it is very easy to get pretty big boost numbers on my tune very quickly when trying not to get run over. So when my car is cold, I just run in a 15 psi slot and it takes about one second to switch on the fly when temps come up a bit. I am a believer in the school of thought that an engine should be brought up to operating temperature before it is driven hard, and limiting max boost to 15 psi on an engine that has been started from cold for less than a minute seems like a good thing to me. The real issue for me is just how fast the car builds big boost numbers on this Stratified tune, which is a great thing and an amazing change over the stock tune. I just like the option of being careful when the engine is cold since it takes about one second to switch to a full boost slot even when driving.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Getting an accessport will most likely be one of the biggest improvements you can achieve with a stock turbo until you get a hybrid or big turbo. I balked it at first also....Don't feel bad. But looking back I'm really happy I got it and you can get some through tuners with a tune included on top of the Cobb OTS tune. I have the stratified Tune with a stocker right now with flash tunes for 91 oct ....93 oct.... and E30. I was extremely impressed with what can be done with the accessport and a tune from a vendor such as stratified. I love the fact that they create slots affiliated with the cruise control so you can change on the fly and don't have to shut the car down to uninstall and reinstall another tune, if you aren't in a area that has the Octane you want. I do believe it is the only way you can remote tune and not actually have to be at the tuners shop to get everything all dialed in perfect. Just bite the performance bullet ...you will not regret it after you realize its full potential that it holds!