Fiesta ST Sound Symposer

[BoostBumps]

Thanks. I'll give it a shot tonight. Looks easy enough. Just like I thought getting to that clamp was going to be easy.. The space in there I think is worse than working on some of my radio control stuff.

Did you remove the symposer box first before attempting to remove that low hose clamp on the charge pipe? I found that allowed for much more room to work with...

 

[Darmie]

No. it looked easy enough... Well, I'll know next time. The back of that fan has some sharp edges too..

 

[BoostBumps]

No. it looked easy enough... Well, I'll know next time. The back of that fan has some sharp edges too..

very true...I recall I did scrape a knuckle on that while attempting to remove it..

 

[Darmie]

How hard is it to take that pipe off? does it just pull off?

 

[BoostBumps]

How hard is it to take that pipe off? does it just pull off?

you mean position #4 hose off the box?? its just pulls (pops) off

 

[RMG]

Hey guys.

Just did this 5 minutes ago...what a pain in the you-know-what, well for me at least. Had some trouble getting the clamp off...apparently they are now glueing the clamps to the hoses at the rear end making it damn near impossible to pull the clamp up/down. Ended up wrestling with the thing (big clumsy hands don't help) off of the charge pipe and getting the plug in/hose back on. Sounds MUCH better in my opinion.

As for the plug deteriorating over time; highly doubt it will do this, BUT if it does bare in mind that the original hose is securely clamped in place and at worst will just go back to making the symposer work.

 

[Svvift]

i might have to do this. i just hate the idea of a symposer..

 

[DP03]

The "sock in the box", or terry cloth in my case, works great. Now, I have no intention of removing the symposia altogether, for that the plugs would make sense. But with the Cobb CB, I did find the drone seemed amplified with the symposer. Can definitely tell a difference with the box "stuffed". And can go back to symposer sound if desired, in 10 secs.

 

[treys1]

I bought the 1" Dorman plug with the intent to plug at the charge pipe, but the engine was quite warm when I wanted to take care of it. I actually ended up using it in the symposer box outlet (1 in the diagram) to see how much it helped, and it worked good enough that I may leave it there for now. The tube slipped back over so it all looks factory and as of now I don't have to worry about the diaphragm deteriorating (300 miles on it) and stock boost.

 

[FatGuyInALittleCar]

I just yanked and plugged mine. I am so much happier without it. I didn't like the sounds it was amplifying. The car feels much quieter and more livable with it gone completely.
If I sell the car in the future, it will go in the spare parts box in the boot.

 

[Zissou]

I like many others have quickly grown tired over the past few weeks of hearing those annoying whirling hollow sounds and faux exhaust noises coming into my cabin caused by the sound symposer which Ford chose to install in the FiST... I finally decided to eliminate this feature without appearing as if anything was modified or removed...

The solution as already mentioned previously by a few others is very easy....I chose to just simply plug the source on the charge pipe that feeds the symposer box....And as a result of doing so I no longer hear those hollow swirling sounds which often occur during low-mid throttle accelerations...And quite frankly now I can really enjoy hearing my Cobb exhaust system which now sounds far better even in the cabin while cruising after that sound symposer function was effectively removed from the system...

Now if your only interested in not channeling the sound into the cabin you can just simply remove the symposer tube after the box which leads to the cabin...

But more importantly (IMO)....Considering that I've now raised max boost levels higher (with my current tune), along with some future projects planned, I simply wasn't comfortable having that much boost pressure channeled to a sound symposer box diaphragm which could get damaged over time and cause some problematic leaks to occur since the symposer source is taken directly off the charge pipe...As a side note: Eventually I'd like to have a pipe fabricated to replace the current stock pipe that connects from IC hardpipe (cold side) to the throttle body which would eliminate the port leading to the symposer...

Outlined and shown below is a "how to" ...(which btw was not original on my part as I have read through a few other examples posted on other forums)....

1) Spread the hose clamp open and remove the lower hose (see #2 in Pic below) from the Symposer box to charge pipe port..

View attachment 2357

2) Insert Dorman rubber (1" - 1.125") expansion plug (#02600) which you can purchase at any Autozone store for $2.99...

View attachment 2358

View attachment 2359

3) Once the rubber expansion plug was inserted and secured in place re-install the symposer hose back over the plug and then reinstalled the symposer box such that you'd never know anything was modified...

View attachment 2360

The entire project took less than 20 min and cost $3.00....

I'm trying to do this now. How the heck did you get that clamp off? (Number 2 in pic)? Squeezing it with some long pliers is tough enough, but once I get it squeezed it won't budge.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BoostBumps]

I'm trying to do this now. How the heck did you get that clamp off? (Number 2 in pic)? Squeezing it with some long pliers is tough enough, but once I get it squeezed it won't budge.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

IIRC the OE clamp is actually "attached" to the hose with some adhesive during assembly at the factory...You'll need to pinch the clamp open, while at the same time, twist the hose in order to remove the hose with clamp still attached to it from the IC pipe symposer port...hope that makes sense....

 

[Zissou]

IIRC the OE clamp is actually "attached" to the hose with some adhesive during assembly at the factory...You'll need to pinch the clamp open, while at the same time, twist the hose in order to remove the hose with clamp still attached to it from the IC pipe symposer port...hope that makes sense....

Yup, thanks!

Now I just need to figure out how to do that... Going to need to grow a couple extra arms.

 

[BoostBumps]

Yup, thanks!

Now I just need to figure out how to do that... Going to need to grow a couple extra arms.

Using one of these type pliers will help....

11 in. 45? Reach Bent Long Nose Pliers




11 in. Reach Long Nose Pliers

 

[Siestarider]

I posted this long ago, but my solution was cutting two circular pieces of old inner tube to just slightly larger than symposer hose, insert first one couple inches in, second one an inch in, reattach hose. No more annoying symposer and no cost.

 

[stuntdoogie]

When I did mine I bought long curved needle nose pliers like boostbumps pic from harbor freight then replaced the spring clamps with worm clamps.

 

[jeff]

Still can't find this info anywhere....does plugging the pipes as suggested make it quieter or louder?

Also, if you eliminate the symposer completely and simply attach the 2 pipes, how does that affect the sound?

 

[XuperXero]

Still can't find this info anywhere....does plugging the pipes as suggested make it quieter or louder?

Also, if you eliminate the symposer completely and simply attach the 2 pipes, how does that affect the sound?

Like a massive boost leak. Which it is.

 

[Superfly Snook]

When I did mine I bought long curved needle nose pliers like boostbumps pic from harbor freight then replaced the spring clamps with worm clamps.

Having just done the stealth delete yesterday I am curious how you were able to tighten a worm clamp down since it seemed to me it'd be really hard to get in there with a tool at the right angle?

For me installing the hose with spring clamp was much easier than getting it off in the beginning. On my 2016 FiST the spring clamp has a little tab to hold it open so you only need give it a quick squeeze with the pliers to pop it back into place once the hose has been wiggled over the pipe. The straight 11" pliers worked better for me than the angled ones.

For those using the 1" to 1 1/8" expansion plug - how tight are you torquing it down in there? I didn't want to crank too hard on it, so I would say I have more of an interference fit, rather than having torqued it down very much. I figure the hose clamp will sit over the plug anyways so it should all form a pretty tight seal and I don't think the pressure on that plug is going to be too high. Am I over-thinking this?

 

[Zerodameaon]

Am I over-thinking this?

You might be, it should not have to be to tight, all you want to do is block the sound pressure, that side of things won't see any boost.