Fiesta ST Exhaust Thread

[LILIKE16ST]

At the shop now just started with a muffler delete and new tips. If I want more noise just going to come back and delete the res.


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if doing one of the two muffler delete makes more of a difference on sound by far imo. But to me it sounds best with both deleted but it's all in the sound you want and volume you want.

 

[dailybean]

if doing one of the two muffler delete makes more of a difference on sound by far imo. But to me it sounds best with both deleted but it's all in the sound you want and volume you want.

Definitely agree. I live in a quiet neighborhood and leave for work early so I won’t be going full volume now, but if volume is no worry then cut them both out! I can putt it out of my area quietly and then it gets louder when I get on it.


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[KenST]

if doing one of the two muffler delete makes more of a difference on sound by far imo. But to me it sounds best with both deleted but it's all in the sound you want and volume you want.

Muffler delete should’ve been the way our FiST sound from factory sounds amazing. Muffler and res delete is what is going to sound like next week lol. When he started it up I immediately knew I wanted louder, sounds good with all the crackles but I want more.


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[LILIKE16ST]

I know the weight because I actually weighed them

 

[LILIKE16ST]

Yea it sounds awesome with both. It's a very deep tone for a 4*cylinder*ecapecially considering it's straight piped (the catback anyways). Most people who hear it are surprised it's a straight*pipe. Been running mine that way 2 years now and I won't change it until I go catless dp and I still may not change it...depends how loud it is and if I like the sound or not. You save a good bit of weight too (I shaved about 20 lbs just from*muffler*and*resonator*delete. The*muffler*weighs 17 lbs the*resonator*weighs 7 that's 24 combined I figure after that add the straight*pipe*in their place you're looking at close to a 20 lbs*savings. You won't regret it

 

[KenST]

Yea it sounds awesome with both. It's a very deep tone for a 4*cylinder*ecapecially considering it's straight piped (the catback anyways). Most people who hear it are surprised it's a straight*pipe. Been running mine that way 2 years now and I won't change it until I go catless dp and I still may not change it...depends how loud it is and if I like the sound or not. You save a good bit of weight too (I shaved about 20 lbs just from*muffler*and*resonator*delete. The*muffler*weighs 17 lbs the*resonator*weighs 7 that's 24 combined I figure after that add the straight*pipe*in their place you're looking at close to a 20 lbs*savings. You won't regret it

I was surprised how huge and heavy the muffler was when he took it off(i kept it). I may do a downpipe before I do the resonator to see how it sounds but I really really want to get my resonator done next week. I may just going your route and finish off the straight pipe next week and go for a downpipe next year.


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[Xaendeau]

I was surprised how huge and heavy the muffler was when he took it off(i kept it). I may do a downpipe before I do the resonator to see how it sounds but I really really want to get my resonator done next week. I may just going your route and finish off the straight pipe next week and go for a downpipe next year.


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I would just recommend leaving the cat in. It doesn't make any power in this platform when you remove it. If I didn't get my exhaust replaced, I would have done stock cat and just cut the muffler off with a welded straight piece.

Plus you have emissions, the cars smells funny, and it gets a lot louder without the cat. I'd keep it in. My tune makes plently of pops and gurgles with a cat in. Without it, they would sound like gunshots.

 

[KenST]

I would just recommend leaving the cat in. It doesn't make any power in this platform when you remove it. If I didn't get my exhaust replaced, I would have done stock cat and just cut the muffler off with a welded straight piece.

Plus you have emissions, the cars smells funny, and it gets a lot louder without the cat. I'd keep it in. My tune makes plently of pops and gurgles with a cat in. Without it, they would sound like gunshots.

Sorry my brain isn’t functioning rn but he cat your referring to is the downpipe or the resonator?


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[danbfree]

Sorry my brain isn’t functioning rn but he cat your referring to is the downpipe or the resonator?

Yes, the cats are in the factory downpipe... That said, there is SOME power to be made going catless or high flow, but you MUST have a specific tune or you can actually lose a touch of torque not getting that back pressure. Personally, as in just me, MHO, I think it's disgusting not to at least run high flow cat downpipe, it's smelly and sooty and makes you look like a jerk all over 5 whole HP... Again, just how I see it... It's probably the most divisive thing among auto enthusiasts and I'm in the "run at least high flow cats" camp... I mean, the stock downpipe has like 800 cell cat converter, while at $280, you have the choice of Depo Racing 100 cell, or Whoosh 200 cell and those will cut the fumes to near nothing noticeable at least. If tuned for it, with all other bolt-on's already, you may make 15HP catless and about 10 high flow with a turbo upgrade, cut those numbers in half if only FBO on stock turbo.

And yes, what people call the resonator is what Ford calls the front muffler and what people call the muffler, Ford calls the rear muffler... Also, catless downpipes are known as test pipes in some of the other brand enthusiast circles.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^AGREED!

Of course, some (italics for emphasis) remove the catcon completely, just to be as MAX ANTI-green as possible, and to "piss off tree huggin' politically correct libtards" as much as possible, and would STILL do such even if it meant that they LOST 5-10 HP over retaining said catcon(s), tune or not.

Even the WRC cars are required to run catcons, albeit they may not be too functional since many are mounted right before the tail pipe's tip exit, which seems to be way too far from the cylinder head's exhaust port to "light off" the catcon.
(Maybe they have a resistance heater mounted to it to help super-heat it?? [MENTION=1313]BRGT350[/MENTION]?)

 

[KenST]

Yes, the cats are in the factory downpipe... That said, there is SOME power to be made going catless or high flow, but you MUST have a specific tune or you can actually lose a touch of torque not getting that back pressure. Personally, as in just me, MHO, I think it's disgusting not to at least run high flow cat downpipe, it's smelly and sooty and makes you look like a jerk all over 5 whole HP... Again, just how I see it... It's probably the most divisive thing among auto enthusiasts and I'm in the "run at least high flow cats" camp... I mean, the stock downpipe has like 800 cell cat converter, while at $280, you have the choice of Depo Racing 100 cell, or Whoosh 200 cell and those will cut the fumes to near nothing noticeable at least. If tuned for it, with all other bolt-on's already, you may make 15HP catless and about 10 high flow with a turbo upgrade, cut those numbers in half if only FBO on stock turbo.

And yes, what people call the resonator is what Ford calls the front muffler and what people call the muffler, Ford calls the rear muffler... Also, catless downpipes are known as test pipes in some of the other brand enthusiast circles.

Oh I’m sorry wasn’t clear when I said downpipe, I will be doing a high flow catted downpipe. I don’t ever foresee catless in my future, unless I have a a cutout for a big ass turbo in my hood or out the bumper lol.


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[KenST]

Here is a sound clip I took in my garage earlier.
[video=youtube;H8h0ZaP7G1g]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8h0ZaP7G1g[/video]


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[Xaendeau]

Yes, the cats are in the factory downpipe... That said, there is SOME power to be made going catless or high flow, but you MUST have a specific tune or you can actually lose a touch of torque not getting that back pressure. Personally, as in just me, MHO, I think it's disgusting not to at least run high flow cat downpipe, it's smelly and sooty and makes you look like a jerk all over 5 whole HP... Again, just how I see it... It's probably the most divisive thing among auto enthusiasts and I'm in the "run at least high flow cats" camp... I mean, the stock downpipe has like 800 cell cat converter, while at $280, you have the choice of Depo Racing 100 cell, or Whoosh 200 cell and those will cut the fumes to near nothing noticeable at least. If tuned for it, with all other bolt-on's already, you may make 15HP catless and about 10 high flow with a turbo upgrade, cut those numbers in half if only FBO on stock turbo.

And yes, what people call the resonator is what Ford calls the front muffler and what people call the muffler, Ford calls the rear muffler... Also, catless downpipes are known as test pipes in some of the other brand enthusiast circles.

Well, two things. Back pressure keeps your down low torque from suffering in NA applications and Supercharged motors by keeping intake air and fuel from wooshing out the exhaust during low speed valve overlap. This overlap helps top end but hurts low end. So if you reduce back pressure in NA and Supercharged applications, you shift your torque curb up higher. Good for drag srip and racecar...but bad for daily drivers, trucks, and so on. Low overlap and higher backpressure keeps the air and fuel where they should be and makes the most low end torque.

For turbochargers, this is a completely different beast, since most of the energy of the exhaust passes through tiny blades unless the wastegate opens up. The turbine side of a turbo provides more "backpressure" than the shortest shortie tube headers on a V8.

The turbo extracts engery from the exhaust by working with pressure differentials, so you want to have the highest pressure or velocity coming out of the motor, and the lowest pressure of velocity after the turbo. Ideally, you would want the biggest pipe possible after a turbo to maximize the efficiency.

However, our turbos are so small, the stock down pipe and exhaust are actually sufficient. I've got the stock down pipe in my garage and the stock turbo in my closest. Tomorrow afternoon I can show you what I mean. The turbine outlet hole is like the size of my thumb. The actual cavity behind the internal wastegate and turbine (in front of the stock xxx cell cat) is like two big manly-man fists. It is plenty of room for the exhaust passes to expand.

On the stock turbo, there is unfortunately there is less than 5 HP from doing full turbo back exhaust in this platform. One of the reasons is because the turbo is tapped out and doesn't flow well from the sheer geometrtof how small it is. At redline, you are only seeing about 14 psi, where some folks ahvelike 25psi down low. You can't improve the low flow of exhaust the turbo is struggling with. The trubo is the bottleneck, Second reason is the thumb to manly-sized fist expansion that the exhaust gasses see leaving the turbo before the catt.

Once you swap out the turbo through, this is all wrong. (-_-) Stock down pipe become a huge bottleneck when you can actually make 25+psi (30+ lbs air per minute, or about 300+ HP on pump gas) at redline insead of 14 psi (like 200-210 HP at the most on pump gas). You then see gains stepping up to a 2.5" or a 3" exhaust. You can actually see a few HP going to a test pipe for a dyno pull.

 

[danbfree]

Well, two things. Back pressure keeps your down low torque from suffering in NA applications and Supercharged motors by keeping intake air and fuel from wooshing out the exhaust during low speed valve overlap. This overlap helps top end but hurts low end. So if you reduce back pressure in NA and Supercharged applications, you shift your torque curb up higher. Good for drag srip and racecar...but bad for daily drivers, trucks, and so on. Low overlap and higher backpressure keeps the air and fuel where they should be and makes the most low end torque.

For turbochargers, this is a completely different beast, since most of the energy of the exhaust passes through tiny blades unless the wastegate opens up. The turbine side of a turbo provides more "backpressure" than the shortest shortie tube headers on a V8.

The turbo extracts engery from the exhaust by working with pressure differentials, so you want to have the highest pressure or velocity coming out of the motor, and the lowest pressure of velocity after the turbo. Ideally, you would want the biggest pipe possible after a turbo to maximize the efficiency.

However, our turbos are so small, the stock down pipe and exhaust are actually sufficient. I've got the stock down pipe in my garage and the stock turbo in my closest. Tomorrow afternoon I can show you what I mean. The turbine outlet hole is like the size of my thumb. The actual cavity behind the internal wastegate and turbine (in front of the stock xxx cell cat) is like two big manly-man fists. It is plenty of room for the exhaust passes to expand.

On the stock turbo, there is unfortunately there is less than 5 HP from doing full turbo back exhaust in this platform. One of the reasons is because the turbo is tapped out and doesn't flow well from the sheer geometrtof how small it is. At redline, you are only seeing about 14 psi, where some folks ahvelike 25psi down low. You can't improve the low flow of exhaust the turbo is struggling with. The trubo is the bottleneck, Second reason is the thumb to manly-sized fist expansion that the exhaust gasses see leaving the turbo before the catt.

Once you swap out the turbo through, this is all wrong. (-_-) Stock down pipe become a huge bottleneck when you can actually make 25+psi (30+ lbs air per minute, or about 300+ HP on pump gas) at redline insead of 14 psi (like 200-210 HP at the most on pump gas). You then see gains stepping up to a 2.5" or a 3" exhaust. You can actually see a few HP going to a test pipe for a dyno pull.

Great post, but I do think that we do see closer to 225HP at the wheels on stock turbo with e30 and I know just my basic Stage 1 Stratified tune I start at 26.5 PSI and ends up a bit higher than 14 PSI, but it's silly to carry all the way to redline with our tiny turbo anyway, optimal shift point is a full 750-1000 RPM below redline... But again, very good points, it just makes zero financial sense to do exhausts on our car for gains, I just wish it could somehow trade off the insane low torque for some more HP up high, but nope, you need at least hybrid turbo upgrade for that... But at least a tiny turbo makes the car feel very powerful in day to day driving with even a basic stage 1 Cobb OTS tune.

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^Yeah, kind of like the old Saab "low pressure boost" engines of yore, albeit those were still 0.4 liter bigger than our EcoBoosts with a (slightly) bigger turbo as well.

 

[mindmaster]

Guys! I’m new in the ST World, I’m looking for a good exhaust in terms of price, quality and performance (weight lost). I’m located overseas and I had to pay taxes and duty fees for buying stuff from the states.

My principal choose at this time is FSWERKS vs a local shop in my country which works with Borla.

Here it is a how it sounds in the local: https://instagram.com/p/BjFmmRNHnpY/
They made the exhaust and they welding the exhaust.

What do you think will be better?

 

[J_BadWOLF]

I am a huge fan of the mountunes and the Cobb systems. They are a great Day/D exhaust

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[meekestboaster]

I'm in the market for an exhaust coming up within the next month or 2, and after reading this and all exhaust threads a trillion times I really just can't decide for the life of me what to get. I've debated just deleting the muffler, to FSwerks, to CPe, to a custom vibrant setup...I just don't know lol. I come from a history of catless straight pipes (sr20, miata, turbo rotary) but i'm trying to keep this car a little bit more "mature" so to speak. Still want noise though, definitely. I'm scared some options will be TOO quiet. My issue is I need to hear some of these in person

That being said, has anybody bought the Enhance Performance exhaust? there's something about it that makes me want to pull the trigger, but it seems like nobody owns it for reviews. They've only got one sound clip, and it's not the greatest clip. I like the turndown tip, I know some people think it's ricey but a lot of rotary guys run turndowns so I've got an eye for them now haha

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEUfADI3gUc

 

[M-Sport fan]

I'm in the market for an exhaust coming up within the next month or 2, and after reading this and all exhaust threads a trillion times I really just can't decide for the life of me what to get. I've debated just deleting the muffler, to FSwerks, to CPe, to a custom vibrant setup...I just don't know lol. I come from a history of catless straight pipes (sr20, miata, turbo rotary) but i'm trying to keep this car a little bit more "mature" so to speak. Still want noise though, definitely. I'm scared some options will be TOO quiet. My issue is I need to hear some of these in person

That being said, has anybody bought the Enhance Performance exhaust? there's something about it that makes me want to pull the trigger, but it seems like nobody owns it for reviews. They've only got one sound clip, and it's not the greatest clip. I like the turndown tip, I know some people think it's ricey but a lot of rotary guys run turndowns so I've got an eye for them now haha

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cEUfADI3gUc

WHEN did turn down tips become "ricey"?!

Am I stuck in the mid 2000ndsies thinking that ONLY WAY TOO HUGE for the rest of their 2" diameter systems, 4"+ polished/chrome and/or 'burnt' melon launcher style, straight tips are what is considered 'ricey'??
I do NOT follow import fanboy, JDM YO, or sport compact jive 'trends' so I guess I have no idea.

BTW; I did mine SOLELY because I liked that look on the last gen (OURS) MK.7, Fiesta RS WRC, and R5 actual rally cars.

 

[meekestboaster]

We’re on the same page, like I said I’ve read through these exhaust threads a lot and I’ve seen more than 1 person say that they’re ricey haha