Fiesta ST constant misfire symptoms , rough idle and sporadic limp mode - P006A:64-6C P0106:64-2F P1060:64-2E P00CF:62-6C

[TyphoonFiST]

I been having a misfire for months now, first started with the car getting CEL not long after reaching full operating temperature and with that came limp mode also for the very first time in my life.. since then I have replaced:

Coil packs
Spark plugs
Boost sensor
MAP sensor
MAF sensor (removed high flow panel air filter and installed new genuine air filter at the same time)
High pressure fuel pump cam bucket

Where that got rid of all the codes but the misfire only at idle has gotten worse and more often and randomly goes into limp mode with CEL ect, also hearing a tick or a click sound when each misfire occurs.. mostly happens when engine has been at operating temperature for a while but I also get the 3 cylinder hot or cold startups.. can smell unburnt fuel at startup most times and takes a couple of extra cranks than normal to start..

Next thing to replace I think will be the EVAP vacuum tubing and purge valve ect as I heard (from an American) that they can go at as low as 30 - 60 thousand miles.. I have just recently hit 139000km...

Car never has a problem when accelerating hard just at idle and light throttle input..

Have you pulled the Injector on #3 to see if the Injector seal is still on the injector itself? You could use a Borescope and a 90 degree mirror fitting down the spark plug hole to check Vs. removing the entire injector*

 

[METZGER]

Have you pulled the Injector on #3 to see if the Injector seal is still on the injector itself? You could use a Borescope and a 90 degree mirror fitting down the spark plug hole to check Vs. removing the entire injector*

How do you know it would be cylinder number 3? Is it a common problem with that injector? I'd probably just get all the injectors replaced instead.. they done just under 140000km from new..

 

[TyphoonFiST]

How do you know it would be cylinder number 3? Is it a common problem with that injector? I'd probably just get all the injectors replaced instead.. they done just under 140000km from new..

Because you said the 3 cyl * Thought you meant #3 cylinder*.

I been having a misfire for months now, first started with the car getting CEL not long after reaching full operating temperature and with that came limp mode also for the very first time in my life.. since then I have replaced:

Coil packs
Spark plugs
Boost sensor
MAP sensor
MAF sensor (removed high flow panel air filter and installed new genuine air filter at the same time)
High pressure fuel pump cam bucket

Where that got rid of all the codes but the misfire only at idle has gotten worse and more often and randomly goes into limp mode with CEL ect, also hearing a tick or a click sound when each misfire occurs.. mostly happens when engine has been at operating temperature for a while but I also get the 3 cylinder hot or cold startups.. can smell unburnt fuel at startup most times and takes a couple of extra cranks than normal to start..

Next thing to replace I think will be the EVAP vacuum tubing and purge valve ect as I heard (from an American) that they can go at as low as 30 - 60 thousand miles.. I have just recently hit 139000km...

Car never has a problem when accelerating hard just at idle and light throttle input..

Because you said the 3 cyl * Thought you meant #3 cylinder*.

 

[METZGER]

Thanks for your reply.
I see the misfire counts in the little scan tool I have are spread out over all four cylinders.. I will replace the purge valve and the including vacuum tubing and if that doesn't fix it I guess it's the injectors? How many km/miles do these factory injectors usually do before they need to be replaced?

 

[METZGER]

O

Because you said the 3 cyl * Thought you meant #3 cylinder*.



Because you said the 3 cyl * Thought you meant #3 cylinder*.

Oh ok yeah I meant when I start the engine, most times is sounds like is running on only 3 cylinders for 5 - 10 seconds and then starts to fire on all four.. That's actually been happening since about 80000km.. that I was never able to figure out. Happens with hot or cold starts.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

O


Oh ok yeah I meant when I start the engine, most times is sounds like is running on only 3 cylinders for 5 - 10 seconds and then starts to fire on all four.. That's actually been happening since about 80000km.. that I was never able to figure out. Happens with hot or cold starts.

Injector leaking down*?

 

[METZGER]

Injector leaking down*?

I'm more worried about the misfire at idle.. it's getting worse and I can't keep driving it like this.

 

[METZGER]

Injector leaking down*?

I pick up that purge valve and vacuum tubing today and will hopefully fit it today. If nothing changes I guess the injectors will be getting replaced.. that's if the old ones will even come out.. due to carbon buildup..

 

[FiestaSTdude]

Any news on this?

 

[METZGER]

Any news on this?

Well today i was listening in the engine bay for where the random clicking/ticking was coming from and it sounds like it's coming from the back of the engine, pulled the oil filler cap off and couldn't hear anything in the tappets.

It went into limp mode while i was listening then i relized it dosen't do the click while in limp mode... I had my Diverter Valve+ that i hadden't fitted so i finaly fitted it and went for a drive and it drives a lot better and now the clicking has gone and only have the rough idle now, like random missfires and studdering.. I have a new fuel pump (low pressure pump that is located in the tank) that i need to install because the factory one has done 143000km.. That includes the filter also which will be very dirty IMO..

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Well today i was listening in the engine bay for where the random clicking/ticking was coming from and it sounds like it's coming from the back of the engine, pulled the oil filler cap off and couldn't hear anything in the tappets.

It went into limp mode while i was listening then i relized it dosen't do the click while in limp mode... I had my Diverter Valve+ that i hadden't fitted so i finaly fitted it and went for a drive and it drives a lot better and now the clicking has gone and only have the rough idle now, like random missfires and studdering.. I have a new fuel pump (low pressure pump that is located in the tank) that i need to install because the factory one has done 143000km.. That includes the filter also which will be very dirty IMO..

Have you looked at the LPFS/ Low Pressure Fuel Sensor pressures?You can do this with either a scan tool or Cobb AP3. The LPFS is located on the Fuel line near the firewall. i did a mini DIY on it also*

https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/flp-fuel-low-pressure-sensor-diy.24556/#post-470959

 

[METZGER]

No not yet, where in the scan tool can I check that? I recently watched a video how to change that sensor too..

 

[TyphoonFiST]

No not yet, where in the scan tool can I check that? I recently watched a video how to change that sensor too..

Should be in Live feed data portion of the scantool*

 

[METZGER]

Yeah I see the live data but gotta figure out what the readings should or shouldn't be..

 

[METZGER]

Replaced the in-tank fuel pump yesterday and today I clear codes and rescan and get the code: P00CF.

 

[METZGER]

Today I removed the low pressure fuel sensor to check the O-ring and it seems ok to me, I removed the O-ring and put a few wraps of thread tape on the thread then put the O-ring back on and the first two startups i could'nt smell any fuel but time will tell, I will bring it up to operating temps tomorow and see if the code comes back.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Today I removed the low pressure fuel sensor to check the O-ring and it seems ok to me, I removed the O-ring and put a few wraps of thread tape on the thread then put the O-ring back on and the first two startups i couldn't smell any fuel but time will tell, I will bring it up to operating temps tomorrow and see if the code comes back.

Did you replace the LPFS? You should've done it while you had it out.

 

[METZGER]

Did you replace the LPFS? You should've done it while you had it out.

No i haven't bought a new one yet.. I was watching the voltage on Forscan and it's sitting at about 3v and of course flucturating normaly while idleing but seems to stay the same when i rev the engine so it may be neededing replacement, ford said those sensors are on backorder at the moment but might have to get one soon, wasnt too hard to get out after removing intake tube and battery..

 

[Intuit]

I usually like to troubleshoot by temporarily unplugging thiings as a comparison/confirmation test. May also be able to "borrow" a sensor from the junkyard; particularly if the price is right (which is not always a guarantee anymore) and it's a rare failure item.

 

[METZGER]

I usually like to troubleshoot by temporarily unplugging thiings as a comparison/confirmation test. May also be able to "borrow" a sensor from the junkyard; particularly if the price is right (which is not always a guarantee anymore) and it's a rare failure item.

That would definitely be helpful for me right now!

I cleaned the boost sensor and there is oil in the tubes but there always is.. same with the MAP sensor, I cleaned that and there was oil on that also, went for a drive and came back and still the rough idle is there but seems to be less often.. the throttle seems to be a little weird like a kind of on/off, all or nothing feel.. I recently cleaned the MAF sensor too with proper MAP sensor cleaner..

All of the sensors listed above have been replaced with brand new genuine ones in the last 12 months.