Fiesta ST constant misfire symptoms , rough idle and sporadic limp mode - P006A:64-6C P0106:64-2F P1060:64-2E P00CF:62-6C

[WaterMore]

Hi all,

I searched and searched for answers to this and couldn't find anything. So thought I might post it to see does anyone have the same issue.

I have a 2015 registered (Oct 2014 built) Fiesta ST-3 with 55k miles or roughly 88k kilometers.

I bought the car second hand April 2019. The car since day one ish, has had a very noticeable misfire and this misfire happens at idle, driving off boost and in boost, meaning it is constant. But at idle the misfire only happens when the car reaches full temp, and not the temp on the dial as that goes full at around 62°, but on my torque pro app I monitor it and it doesn't start till the car is over 87°.

The car also has a rough idle, and if I am in an area where the sound can bounce back I hear this ticking noise also when the revs are jumping down or "misfiring". I always hear that same noise after I turn the car off and walk away, but not the usual ticking of a cooling engine.

It is only at idle in the above conditions that it will knock in to limp mode. This was always really annoying as I am in traffic on the way home from work and the only way for me to combat it is to rev the car from its idle 780 ish rpms to 1k rpms.

The 4 fault codes that I have listed below are the ones that I could find that I wrote down, but some have appeared more than once. They are (I will give a full description below):
P006A:64-6C - MAP
P0106:64-2F - Barometric Pressure
P1060:64-2E - MAP
P00CF:62-6C - MAP

I have brought the car to Ford dealership when one of the times the code P0106:64-2F - Barometric Pressure put the car in limp mode, and the only real information that I got back from them was the boost reading was different from one sensor to another and when it happens again they will look at it.

What I have done in the hope of sorting it:
New spark plugs
X2 new MAP sensors, first was not OEM, the second was.
New boost pressure sensor, under warranty the re-seller changed this but was not OEM as they are not a Ford garage
I have since tightened all the boost clamps, which were in fairness pretty lose, this was the information that Ford had give me, and I started looking at the boost, I was only boosting 16psi instead of 21psi (1.1 bar instead of 1.44). The cars is only boosting 19.2 at the moment, but there is one pipe I can't get at till my 7mm spanner I ordered online arrives, these are hard to find locally for where I live.
I also did the ground wire with file and dielectric grease in the hope it was just an electrical mishap.
I got it serviced hoping it was something stupid

The current modifications on the car are:
Mountune boost pipes
Mountune coolant pipes
Mountune intercooler
Mountune short shifter
COBB engine rear mount
Eibach Pro strings
Vudu Symposer Delete
K&N filter - only, no Mountune box

From what I can make out from my OBD and live data the car does not have a software tune, the power at the wheels is exactly what the manufacture states, though it took me some time to find this as Ford advertise the power at the crank.

I am eager to get this resolved as I am waiting until it is to purchase ITG intake and Peron Stage 1+, and I'll stop after I have that.

Any help at all would be appreciated at all.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Mileage? Are you consuming coolant? Do you have a scantool that can look to see how much the vehicle is actually possibly misfiring and not setting codes due to its threshold not being met to set off the check engine light for a particular cylinder.

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[WaterMore]

Mileage? Are you consuming coolant? Do you have a scantool that can look to see how much the vehicle is actually possibly misfiring and not setting codes due to its threshold not being met to set off the check engine light for a particular cylinder.

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Hi TyphoonFist, thanks for getting in touch.

It has 55k miles on the clock.

I only checked the coolant tank yesterday and that is perfect.

I don't have a scan tool that will check misfire, only a Torque Pro adaptor and Torque Pro app. Which not being MS-CAN are limited in what they can do.

It is however more that the car is missing rather than being an actual misfire if that makes sense. I am going to check the coil and leads if I still have daylight after work. But I was thinking they would be a more specific code than the MAP and Baro sensors

 

[TyphoonFiST]

A car can have a misfire with No codes set. It happens just under the threshold of how many times and car can actually misfire before the Check engine light is tripped.....FYI. Some manufacturers have a low count and some take ALOT of consecutive misfires to trip the light.What is the spark plug gap at? Is there oil in the Charge pipes that could be blowing through and contaminating the sensors?

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[DoomsdayMelody]

Could this be intake valve related? AFAIK, your right at the minimum odometer reading in which Ford describes the problem being poasible. Unfortunately, last I’d checked, Ford hasn’t released a cleaning process for the intake valves, short of replacing the head.


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[PunkST]

Check the resistance on your coils. And look for cracks in the boots. I ebded up replacing mine at 80,000 miles due to running issues that i wasnt getting any fault codes for.

 

[PunkST]

Also look for knicked and broken/ frayed wires at those sensors.

 

[HardBoiledEgg]

I tend to go for worst case. I don't like those codes. Driven normally?

 

[SteveS]

A P006A trouble code is related to a vehicle’s mass air flow or mass air pressure sensor that monitors the incoming air into the intake manifold.

What the P006A code means

P006A is an OBD-II generic code for a signal correlation problem between the engine computer and the mass air-flow (MAF) or mass air pressure (MAP) sensor in that the reading coming from the sensor is not within the manufacturer’s parameters.

What causes the P006A code?

The most common causes for a P006A are:

• Aftermarket air intake systems
• Dirty MAF or MAP sensor
• Faulty MAF or MAP sensor
• Faulty engine computer

What are the symptoms of the P006A code?

Symptoms will vary between vehicle, with some drivers reporting no noticeable issues other than a check engine light. Other vehicles will experience power loss, surging and audible fluttering.

How does a mechanic diagnose the P006A code?

Because of a number of known cases of aftermarket cold air intake systems causing P006A codes, your mechanic will first inspect the engine for any modifications. It’s highly recommended to remove aftermarket parts, reinstall the OEM parts, clear the code, reset the engine computer, and test drive the vehicle for the code’s return.


If there are no aftermarket parts, your mechanic will test the MAF or MAP sensor for contamination, cleaning as necessary, before testing for continuity. If the sensor is deemed faulty, it will be replaced and the code will be cleared.

Common mistakes when diagnosing the P006A code

Aftermarket intake systems can cause P006As, making it important to check for these before moving on to replacing other parts.

How serious is the P006A code?

A P006A isn’t a particularly serious code, but it can cause poor driving characteristics on certain vehicles.

What repairs can fix the P006A code?

The most common repairs for a P006A are as follows:

• Replacing aftermarket air intake systems with OEM components
• Cleaning the MAP or MAF sensor
• Replacing the MAP or MAF sensor

While rare, replacing the engine computer may be a needed repair as well.

Additional comments for consideration regarding the P006A code

P006A codes are common in turbocharged Ford models, both with gasoline and diesel engines. In fact, Ford released a service bulletin for 2003 and earlier 6.0 liter powerstroke trucks and some later model, four cylinder EcoBoost models have also been affected.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Has the K&N filter been cleaned and re-oiled lately?

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[SteveS]

The 0106 and 1060 codes also relate to manifold pressure fluctuations without corresponding variance in engine load. Therefore I would deduce that you may have something wrong with the mass airflow sensor or the manifold air pressure sensor. I haven't dealt with this on the Fiesta, but on other engines like a Ford Ranger, the symptoms are just about as you describe.

 

[Intuit]

Something wrong with what a user did to engine. Put engine related changes (including ECU programming) back to stock and go from there.

 

[germanFST]

Good idea to put the engine back 100% stock and troubleshoot from there, my 2 cents!

 

[SteveS]

The other thing I've seen that can cause driveability problems like that is a cracked airbox (which can lead to sensor failures). Therefore leaks or other problems in the aftermarket air intake/turbo system can likely cause this, as it would be the same as a cracked airbox, causing abnormal pressure/flow of air.

 

[WaterMore]

Hi all,

Thank you very much for your input on this, it is greatly appreciated, as you can imagine I was on my last nerve with the car and was getting ready to get rid.

I have however resolved the issue. For at the very least now and I was waiting for a full week of testing before I replied to this.

Later in the day after I posted this, I took out the MAF, MAP and Boost sensors. I gave them a through clean.

The car has not had a single "misfire" or issue since then.

I do find that a little odd, as I had cleaned the MAF before and the Boost and MAP were both replaced.

The only thing I can think of is that some oil might have come off the K&N and hit the MAF after I cleaned it, that or I didn't clean it properly the first time.

Never the less, it works perfectly, and I have a new found love for the car again and have stopped reviewing Leon ST Cupra 290 DSG videos

Should the problem come back and persists after cleaning sensors again I will look at other options.

But thanks for the help/advice

It is something that I will be keeping a close eye on moving forward

 

[WaterMore]

Hi all,

posting this in the hope that someone else might see it if they have the same problem.

I had posted that this was resolved via cleaning sensors. The car did run ok briefly, I had bought an OE boost pressure sensor also and this did not resolve, the issue returned with added problems. The extra problems were the odd time it was a little harder to start and I was having turbo surge. But I will talk about those further down.

I also bough a new forge motorsport waste gate actuator
New coil packs
Ngk spark plugs
A new OE boost solenoid
GFB DV+ (a must buy)
I also got a remap where it spent a number of days on the dyno to try and resolve - which was costly but from it I got a little extra power, and have now paid for a stage 2 map this is waiting to be installed. I just wanted to resolve the issues and order a down pipe.

The next item on my list of things to buy was an oxygen sensor. In Ireland to get this from Ford was 239, and I just couldn't justify it after spending so much.

As a last ditch attempt before getting a vacuum test done I decided to fork out on an evap purge valve from ford, but this comes as a full breather system - see attached image of the one removed.

That was my issue, all the fault codes for sensors etc, all for nothing, I would honestly advise anyone having the above issues or codes to do the purge valve first. Remove the airbox and induction hose to cross over pipe and it takes single digit minutes to take off old and install new.

I had initially thought the surge was due to the adjustment of the actuator, this was foolish on my part. Boost still needs to be adjusted slightly on actuator but it boosts so cleanly now compared to before.

This has been a huge, HUGE learning curve, I have hated the issues I had with the car. But at the same time I am so glad that they did happen so that I learned as much as I have. And I have enjoyed every oily second I spent under the car.

 

[Rocketst]

Hi all,

posting this in the hope that someone else might see it if they have the same problem.

I had posted that this was resolved via cleaning sensors. The car did run ok briefly, I had bought an OE boost pressure sensor also and this did not resolve, the issue returned with added problems. The extra problems were the odd time it was a little harder to start and I was having turbo surge. But I will talk about those further down.

I also bough a new forge motorsport waste gate actuator
New coil packs
Ngk spark plugs
A new OE boost solenoid
GFB DV+ (a must buy)
I also got a remap where it spent a number of days on the dyno to try and resolve - which was costly but from it I got a little extra power, and have now paid for a stage 2 map this is waiting to be installed. I just wanted to resolve the issues and order a down pipe.

The next item on my list of things to buy was an oxygen sensor. In Ireland to get this from Ford was 239, and I just couldn't justify it after spending so much.

As a last ditch attempt before getting a vacuum test done I decided to fork out on an evap purge valve from ford, but this comes as a full breather system - see attached image of the one removed.

That was my issue, all the fault codes for sensors etc, all for nothing, I would honestly advise anyone having the above issues or codes to do the purge valve first. Remove the airbox and induction hose to cross over pipe and it takes single digit minutes to take off old and install new.

I had initially thought the surge was due to the adjustment of the actuator, this was foolish on my part. Boost still needs to be adjusted slightly on actuator but it boosts so cleanly now compared to before.

This has been a huge, HUGE learning curve, I have hated the issues I had with the car. But at the same time I am so glad that they did happen so that I learned as much as I have. And I have enjoyed every oily second I spent under the car.

Never seen aftermarket clips on an evap harness before.... They are supposed to be green.

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[XR650R]

Never seen aftermarket clips on an evap harness before.... They are supposed to be green.

Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk

They're red on the EU models.

 

[METZGER]

Hi all,

posting this in the hope that someone else might see it if they have the same problem.

I had posted that this was resolved via cleaning sensors. The car did run ok briefly, I had bought an OE boost pressure sensor also and this did not resolve, the issue returned with added problems. The extra problems were the odd time it was a little harder to start and I was having turbo surge. But I will talk about those further down.

I also bough a new forge motorsport waste gate actuator
New coil packs
Ngk spark plugs
A new OE boost solenoid
GFB DV+ (a must buy)
I also got a remap where it spent a number of days on the dyno to try and resolve - which was costly but from it I got a little extra power, and have now paid for a stage 2 map this is waiting to be installed. I just wanted to resolve the issues and order a down pipe.

The next item on my list of things to buy was an oxygen sensor. In Ireland to get this from Ford was 239, and I just couldn't justify it after spending so much.

As a last ditch attempt before getting a vacuum test done I decided to fork out on an evap purge valve from ford, but this comes as a full breather system - see attached image of the one removed.

That was my issue, all the fault codes for sensors etc, all for nothing, I would honestly advise anyone having the above issues or codes to do the purge valve first. Remove the airbox and induction hose to cross over pipe and it takes single digit minutes to take off old and install new.

I had initially thought the surge was due to the adjustment of the actuator, this was foolish on my part. Boost still needs to be adjusted slightly on actuator but it boosts so cleanly now compared to before.

This has been a huge, HUGE learning curve, I have hated the issues I had with the car. But at the same time I am so glad that they did happen so that I learned as much as I have. And I have enjoyed every oily second I spent under the car.

I been having a misfire for months now, first started with the car getting CEL not long after reaching full operating temperature and with that came limp mode also for the very first time in my life.. since then I have replaced:

Coil packs
Spark plugs
Boost sensor
MAP sensor
MAF sensor (removed high flow panel air filter and installed new genuine air filter at the same time)
High pressure fuel pump cam bucket

Where that got rid of all the codes but the misfire only at idle has gotten worse and more often and randomly goes into limp mode with CEL ect, also hearing a tick or a click sound when each misfire occurs.. mostly happens when engine has been at operating temperature for a while but I also get the 3 cylinder hot or cold startups.. can smell unburnt fuel at startup most times and takes a couple of extra cranks than normal to start..

Next thing to replace I think will be the EVAP vacuum tubing and purge valve ect as I heard (from an American) that they can go at as low as 30 - 60 thousand miles.. I have just recently hit 139000km...

Car never has a problem when accelerating hard just at idle and light throttle input..

 

[Intuit]

Does a misfire code put it into limp mode? If not, there must be other(s).