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Fiesta Mk6 Brake Pipe Burst PLEASE H3LP

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Location
Scotland
#1
Hello all,
I recently bought a 2008 fiesta mk6 1.2,
I changed the pads on the front drivers side, caliper was seized so I had to push it open to fit the pads in , then connected it all up and went for a small spin, I thought it would be a good idea to press on the brakes extremely hard to check the braking power when I did this I immediately heard a sound from the wheel well as well as the brake pedal sinking to floor on top of that there was steaming brake fluid shooting out from the wheel well, I then left the car for 24 hours and came back to do an inspection I first thought it was the caliper without fully inspecting it but once i looked I saw that the copper brake pipe was soo rusted/corroded due to the salt in the road in Scotland I guess and I saw exactly where the fluid was coming out from, it was on a bend where the Pipe burst open, the hole was no larger than maybe a mm or2,
So I removed the burst Copper Brake pipe, the brake flexi hose and the caliper.

Because I waited 24 hours to check on it All Of the Fluid has now drained out from that rusted copper pipe, from the master cylinder reservoir and the master cylinder is now empty and full of air I presume?
I have bought a new caliper, pads, Front brake hose,
and a Front brake pipe copper with the fittings and it is premade shaped to fit,

My question is that once everything is installed on the car and I fill it with brake fluid and bleed the brakes,
Will I have to also bleed the master cylinder too?
As the clutch and brakes are being fed by the same resevoir do i need to bleed the clutch cylinder as well?
I would love to hear how you would go about getting her back on the road but any help is much appreciated!

Thanks all

The Car does have ABS
 


TyphoonFiST

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#2
NO* The master cylinder wont need to be bled as it has already been bench bled Via the Factory. If you Were replacing the MC it would sometimes need to be bench bled as per manufacturers Rec. I have seen some MC's come pre-bench bled and ready to install. So all you will need to do with what you have is replace the current line and replace the Copper crush washers. When was the last time the Whole system was bled? Or has it neve been bled at all? If you don't know I would get the Rec. fluid and bleed the whole brake system. If you are not up to doing this bring it to a local shop and have them do it.
 


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Location
Tennessee
#3
I am by no means an expert, but I've messed up enough cars that I'd say I know what not to do at least.

I would say that even though the brake fluid is all drained, it should not have drained your clutch lines since those are technically two different systems. It also will have fluid in the other lines as well, but as you said, you now have air in the master cylinder itself. Here is what I would suggest:

Replace brake line/caliper/pads. (Inspect all the others too while you're at it). Fill master cylinder with fluid. Bleed furthest to closest, as usual. (Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front). Then check your clutch and see if it is soft and needs to be bled as well. You may need to do this process a few times.

Highly recommend a little vacuum pump to help bleed your brake lines if doing by yourself. Here in the states we can pick up hand pump systems from the marine shops that they use for oil changes on boats.

Don't forget to post pictures! I'd love to see this thing!
 


OP
Myfirstfiestamk6
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Thread Starter #4
NO* The master cylinder wont need to be bled as it has already been bench bled Via the Factory. If you Were replacing the MC it would sometimes need to be bench bled as per manufacturers Rec. I have seen some MC's come pre-bench bled and ready to install. So all you will need to do with what you have is replace the current line and replace the Copper crush washers. When was the last time the Whole system was bled? Or has it neve been bled at all? If you don't know I would get the Rec. fluid and bleed the whole brake system. If you are not up to doing this bring it to a local shop and have them do it.

Thank you for your reply,
Yea I def don't know if it was ever blead,
Im going to fill it up with brake fluid and attempt to blead all the brakes when I have it all setup tomorrow,
But you don't think I would need to bench bleed the MC even though air has been introduced through the MC's Res.?

Thanks again
 


OP
Myfirstfiestamk6
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Location
Scotland
Thread Starter #5
I am by no means an expert, but I've messed up enough cars that I'd say I know what not to do at least.

I would say that even though the brake fluid is all drained, it should not have drained your clutch lines since those are technically two different systems. It also will have fluid in the other lines as well, but as you said, you now have air in the master cylinder itself. Here is what I would suggest:

Replace brake line/caliper/pads. (Inspect all the others too while you're at it). Fill master cylinder with fluid. Bleed furthest to closest, as usual. (Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front). Then check your clutch and see if it is soft and needs to be bled as well. You may need to do this process a few times.

Highly recommend a little vacuum pump to help bleed your brake lines if doing by yourself. Here in the states we can pick up hand pump systems from the marine shops that they use for oil changes on boats.

Don't forget to post pictures! I'd love to see this thing!

Thank you for your Reply,

Thank you for your suggestions, I will Definitely post photos of the job, Im also recording a video so maybe I can post a clip of it here

I will fill it tomorrow after I Install everything then bleed using that method and hope for the best,
but i still dont know 100% If im going to have to take the Master cylinder off and bench bleed or if I should do that first before i attempt to bleed ?

I think ive seen those pumps, I just watched a video of a guy bleeding his brakes with a windex spray top,
Awesome - FREE Homemade Car Brake Bleeder -- Brake Flush - YouTube

I guess only time will tell If it must be bench blead,
will def post photos tomorrow

Thank you
 


TyphoonFiST

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#6
Thank you for your reply,
Yea I def don't know if it was ever blead,
Im going to fill it up with brake fluid and attempt to blead all the brakes when I have it all setup tomorrow,
But you don't think I would need to bench bleed the MC even though air has been introduced through the MC's Res.?

Thanks again
NO* What type of bleeder do you have tool wise? Vacuum* Pressure* Etc. I own multiple types and the Vacuum is by far my favorite Bleeding tools and its so easy to use*
 


RubenZZZ

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#7
Cool video tip with the windex bottle pump. Might use that in the future.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 


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42
Location
Tennessee
#8
Thank you for your Reply,

Thank you for your suggestions, I will Definitely post photos of the job, Im also recording a video so maybe I can post a clip of it here

I will fill it tomorrow after I Install everything then bleed using that method and hope for the best,
but i still dont know 100% If im going to have to take the Master cylinder off and bench bleed or if I should do that first before i attempt to bleed ?

I think ive seen those pumps, I just watched a video of a guy bleeding his brakes with a windex spray top,
Awesome - FREE Homemade Car Brake Bleeder -- Brake Flush - YouTube

I guess only time will tell If it must be bench blead,
will def post photos tomorrow

Thank you
I've never bench bled a master cylinder, as far as I know it just saves time when installing a new master cylinder. I would not remove a good master cylinder if all you are trying to do is remove the air from the system. You will be fine with just bleeding it from the calipers.
 


OP
Myfirstfiestamk6
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Scotland
Thread Starter #9
Hello Everyone,

Thank you everyone for your help,
A friend of mine which is a Diesel bus mechanic came by after I fit everything back together and told me that I dont need to bleed the master cylinder and I would only need to bleed the one caliper where the pipe burst as he said that there will still be brake fluid in the other 3 caliper pipes, so we only blead the new caliper and I threw the wheel back on and drove it around for a little bit and she was fine!,
I still think I should bleed the other brakes to make sure there isnt any air in them.

Ive posted a couple of photos showing the New Stuff I installed Plus a new Disc and pads

Thanks again everyone for your help
 


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XR650R

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#10
Glad you got it fixed. It wouldn't be a bad idea to bleed the others since the worst crap tends to accumulate right by the brakes. Suck it out 'til it's clear and top it off.
 


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