End all be all actuator replacement thread (clicking sound, part numbers, video install)

[LilPartyBox]

The Shapeways 3D printed gear arrived a couple of days ago. I'll post an update when i find some time to install it. For now, here are few pics

 

[jeff]

Got my gear in the mail today. Seems solid. I wish I'd kept one of my 3 broken actuators to swap it in, but I tossed them. Crazy, I keep everything usually, the one time I toss something I need it. I'll just hang onto this for the next time one breaks...assuming it's the larger gear that breaks.

https://public.fotki.com/greentrees2/sway-2019/1613237181961.html]

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https://public.fotki.com/greentrees2/sway-2019/1613237174631.html]

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[Intuit]

............ wish I'd kept one of my 3 broken actuators ............

Any of those three not OEM... manufactured by Dorman?

Also, didn't I read somewhere about a sensor being apart of the assembly? If the potentiometer part of the assembly is problematic, just replacing the busted gear may not be sufficient. (uses that to detect position or movement of the blend doors)

 

[jeff]

Any of those three not OEM... manufactured by Dorman?

Also, didn't I read somewhere about a sensor being apart of the assembly? If the potentiometer part of the assembly is problematic, just replacing the busted gear may not be sufficient. (uses that to detect position or movement of the blend doors)

All were OEM, Motorcraft parts.

 

[Capri to ST]

My 16 with less than 17,000 miles started making the loud tapping sound on startup today, to which I said "oh crap." The sound went away when I turned the system on, and came back briefly when I turned it off and then went away.At least I knew what it probably was from this thread and the other blend door actuator thread.

I have two questions for those who have dealt with this –

1- How do you know which actuator has gone bad? The sound sort of sounds like it's coming from the center of the dash, but sounds are tricky.

2- Just confirming that I am correct that there are three actuators.

 

[jeff]

My 16 with less than 17,000 miles started making the loud tapping sound on startup today, to which I said "oh crap." The sound went away when I turned the system on, and came back briefly when I turned it off and then went away.At least I knew what it probably was from this thread and the other blend door actuator thread.

I have two questions for those who have dealt with this –

1- How do you know which actuator has gone bad? The sound sort of sounds like it's coming from the center of the dash, but sounds are tricky.

2- Just confirming that I am correct that there are three actuators.

Can't confirm there are 3, others have said so but I've only replaced the two I detailed in my first few posts in this thread, (a) is behind the glove box and (b) is under the steering wheel. Yes it is deceiving those sounds will drive you mad....I'd start by removing the glove box which takes 2 minutes and you'll be able to put your ear mere inches from the actuator....eliminate that possibility, then stick your noggin up under the steering wheel and listen closely, you'll again be inches from the actuator on that side. That should help you pinpoint which one is bad....if you're still not able to diagnose, sell your car. Just kidding....report back and let us know if you find out which one it is.

 

[briandee]

I had an actuator go bad a few years ago. After researching the issue, found that it is was way less common of an issue in the Europe. The reason is, Ford uses actuators made in Italy for the European market. In the US, (assembled in Mexico) they use a Chinese supplier. I bought an actuator made in Italy (different part #). Sorry, don't have the part #. Not saying this is a solution, but I have put quite a bit more miles on this one!

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Capri to ST]

Can't confirm there are 3, others have said so but I've only replaced the two I detailed in my first few posts in this thread, (a) is behind the glove box and (b) is under the steering wheel. Yes it is deceiving those sounds will drive you mad....I'd start by removing the glove box which takes 2 minutes and you'll be able to put your ear mere inches from the actuator....eliminate that possibility, then stick your noggin up under the steering wheel and listen closely, you'll again be inches from the actuator on that side. That should help you pinpoint which one is bad....if you're still not able to diagnose, sell your car. Just kidding....report back and let us know if you find out which one it is.

Thanks for your response and for putting together the information on this thread.I started it up today, and it clicked just one time and then stopped.That was enough, I traded it in on a Ferrari, got a pretty good deal, it will only cost $6,000 a month for 8 years.
Seriously, I couldn't diagnose it since it only clicked once so I'll try again next time I drive it and see if it starts making the noise more.

 

[jeff]

Thanks for your response and for putting together the information on this thread.I started it up today, and it clicked just one time and then stopped.That was enough, I traded it in on a Ferrari, got a pretty good deal, it will only cost $6,000 a month for 8 years.
Seriously, I couldn't diagnose it since it only clicked once so I'll try again next time I drive it and see if it starts making the noise more.

It should be repeatable, just turn the CC on and select different modes, the actuator should work to move the air here or there and you'll hear the bad one.

 

[Capri to ST]

It should be repeatable, just turn the CC on and select different modes, the actuator should work to move the air here or there and you'll hear the bad one.

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

 

[Capri to ST]

If it makes people feel any better, this problem of blend door actuators breaking and clicking doesn't seem to be unique to Fiestas or to Fords. It happens to lots of cars.
I'm not what you would call mechanically gifted, so if I needs to be fixed I will have someone do it. I talked to service advisors at the Ford dealer and my independent mechanic, and both told me they had seen this problem in many different cars. As soon as I told them I had a clicking sound coming from my dash they both said "That sounds like a blend door actuator" even before I told them what kind of car I had.

 

[Intuit]

.... driver side one ... failed around 40k. ....... Instead of doing one, I did both the driver and passenger side with the Dorman ....

The passenger replacement creeks, but otherwise no other known issues. .............

Update on this. 🙂
I'm replacing the the Dorman passenger side with the original OEM I took out eight months ago.
The creaking got louder, more frequent and doesn't stop if attempt to put it in recirculate mode.
It's very soft, but have also heard gear slip. As we know, OEM gear slip is quite loud. Dorman is not.
I don't know if maybe I installed it wrong and that caused the issue?
Fortunately the passenger side is cake to swap. 👍

EDIT: Dorman driver part has been solid thus far.

 

[Intuit]

When I removed the part, the main drive gear was still inserted into the blend door. (see photo)

Just as I went to reach for it, the grease let go and it fell down onto the floor of the service compartment. Fortunately I could feel around for it and grab it. (hearing that rattle around would've been annoying)

The plastics are little chewed, but it just snaps back into its original hole. I think it was designed to do this. The drive gear mount is hallowed. Excessive torque/resistance will collapse the "fingers" into the hallowed space. That's the "gear slip" I was hearing.

Anyway, O'Reilly Auto has a lifetime warranty on the Dorman part. I intended to exchange but was presented with the option for refund, so took that instead. If the original OEM passeneger ever fails, will be picking up another Dorman.

I temporarily plugged the original OEM into the wire harness and turned on recirculate to get it aligned with the little arrow (see photo of Dorman part) on the case. Rather than unplug, turn off the ignition as soon as it aligns. Original OEM reinstalled and working flawlessly - no noise.

 

[Dpro]

And so my 18 with 15k miles with just over a month left on the 3 year bumper to bumper started the dreaded clack clack clack out of the blue on startup of the car. I was so hoping to Dodge this bullet.

 

[haste]

I would just repair it myself instead of having some tech mess with it. It really isn't complicated.

 

[Gone in 60]

Shoot, add me to the list. My 2015 just hit 50k miles and my left actuator went. Might just do both and get it over with. Old one on the left was not so hard to get out.

 

[Gone in 60]

Sorta wish I had a 2009 Focus. I was installing my new left blend door actuator yesterday, and was doing the gymnastics going through the hole in the dash after removing the steering column cover. Danged if I didn't drop one of the screws into the abyss of the HVAC system. I borrowed a screw from a more easily accessible duct, finished the job and buttoned it back up.

Needed to go to the junkyard to pillage some parts for my work van. While I was there, I rummaged through some late-model Fords to see if I could find a matching T-20 screw to replace the one I removed to finish my actuator installation. I stuck my head below the dash of an '09 Focus. Not only were there two actuators within easy reach under the left side of the dash, there was a third, similar doohicky under the right side. I had six extra screws within minutes.

 

[Dpro]

Well just got back from the Dealer and they replaced not one but Two actuators . One was a blend door and the other was the Mode Actuator. Which makes me wonder if peoples Mode actuators are failing prior to the blend door and causing it to fail. Just a thought would have to read up on their interaction as they do interact.
Anyways ya fixed for free and now I am seriously thinking about an extended warranty as this shit happened within 15k miles and a month shy of 3 years.

 

[Capri to ST]

Well just got back from the Dealer and they replaced not one but Two actuators . One was a blend door and the other was the Mode Actuator. Which makes me wonder if peoples Mode actuators are failing prior to the blend door and causing it to fail. Just a thought would have to read up on their interaction as they do interact.
Anyways ya fixed for free and now I am seriously thinking about an extended warranty as this shit happened within 15k miles and a month shy of 3 years.

I know yours were fixed on warranty, but I'm just curious whether your work order says how many hours they spent on it?
One of mine (which sounded like it was coming from the one behind the steering column or the one in the dash) started clicking a couple months ago, then it quit and has not clicked since. I am of course expecting it to start clicking again, and just wondering how many hours a dealer gets for these.

 

[Dpro]

I know yours were fixed on warranty, but I'm just curious whether your work order says how many hours they spent on it?
One of mine (which sounded like it was coming from the one behind the steering column or the one in the dash) started clicking a couple months ago, then it quit and has not clicked since. I am of course expecting it to start clicking again, and just wondering how many hours a dealer gets for these.

it did not but I did ask what the job would have cost and he said it would have been $485 so figure the cost of those actuators and minus that and figure. You should be able to come out with some kind of Ball Park idea.
the parts # are BE8Z19E615A and BE8Z19E616B they had the car in total for around 3 hours. Not all that time was spent on actual R&R though as they actually tested the voltages on the HVAC module