Effectiveness of vented hoods/heat extractors

[re-rx7]

That is a very profound statement. LOL




Dave

LOL really true though. I built a heat extractor setup for my DSM using the string method and I swear I started over 20 times before settling on something that didn't look like it would work.

 

[RAAMaudio]

My stock hood has pins sticking through it, waiting to install Aerocatch locks, cutting it up to test vents, no worries in the least

String tests are a great method for those of us without a wind tunnel or degree aerodynamics, fluid dynamics, etc....

 

[re-rx7]

String tests are a great method for those of use without a windtunnel or degree aerodynamics, fluid dynamics, etc....

Absolutely.

 

[PCA-1]

I had vents once. Did not do any scientific method. Just liked the look. What I can say is there is no doubt hot air was venting while stopped (doh).

 

[meFiSTo]

I am bringing this thread back to life as I'm resurrecting this option in my 2016 (or later) plans.

I have been kicking around getting an OEM-style Seibon CF hood and then mating these "WRC-style" vents to it:

They are available from Sico (with a pricy CF option). I'd almost certainly get the gel-coat version and paint the whole deal stock Ingot Silver.

I've seen some discussion of that in this epic thread. The discussion regarding the WRC-style vents starts on page 4.

Hey [MENTION=1391]Siestarider[/MENTION], [MENTION=4182]Wimp Lo[/MENTION], and [MENTION=636]RAAMaudio[/MENTION]: Maybe I can get you guys (or really anyone with some input) to chime in here. Thanks.

My questions:

• Will implementing these without doing any other ducting or adding an undertray do much good (cooling wise)?
• Also, I'm thinking of drilling out the blocked off bits covering the radiator grill (in front of the crash beam). Will doing that be more beneficial or detrimental (in light of all the discussion regarding air exiting out the bottom of the engine bay and getting stuck in the engine bay)?

I'm adding both the Mishimoto radiator and oil cooler here soon, but don't want to get into extensive custom aero/tray/ducting changes (because, for me, that all means mucho labor $$$$ at the shop). I'm not racing this thing. It's just a daily driver that I want to hold up at an HPDE (the whole day, dammit). The various threads regarding heat issues are worrisome. I've done one track day in this thing (last spring) with no issues whatsoever, but it was under perfect conditions (mid 60s and partial sun).

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.

 

[wrongwheeldrive]

A couple questions:

Is the stock hood too heavy? (Adding 15lbs of mishimoto jline IC improved my handling)
Do you have overheating problems? (Oil temps can spike with hard driving but with a liquid to liquid cooler an air vent won't help)
Do you want to spend money on cool parts? (Right on!)

WWD

 

[meFiSTo]

Is the stock hood too heavy? (Adding 15lbs of mishimoto jline IC improved my handling)

Well, I'm not sure that much weight matters (like 12 vs. 35 lbs. or something comparing CF to steel), but I wouldn't mind keeping the stock hood intact. The hood is relatively high in the structure of the car, so reducing weight a little should help incrementally with CofG. Who knows.

Do you have overheating problems? (Oil temps can spike with hard driving but with a liquid to liquid cooler an air vent won't help)

Not yet, but I've seen lots of folks here running into problems with long drives up steady grades or at track events on even mildly warm days (which is where I'd be most likely to encounter issues). My car was fine on a cool day last March, although I do not go all-out (which leads to my brake pads being in better shape than for some folks at the end of typical track days as well).

The stock oil cooler is going away in lieu of the Mishimoto package as part of an April installation visit to the shop that does my track prep. More air flow should help that, despite me not doing any kind of focused duct work.

Do you want to spend money on cool parts? (Right on!)

Maybe, but if I do get a CF hood and vents, I want them to DO SOMETHING. Otherwise, no.

 

[Pete]

I am bringing this thread back to life as I'm resurrecting this option in my 2016 (or later) plans.

I have been kicking around getting an OEM-style Seibon CF hood and then mating these "WRC-style" vents to it:

They are available from Sico (with a pricy CF option). I'd almost certainly get the gel-coat version and paint the whole deal stock Ingot Silver.

I've seen some discussion of that in this epic thread. The discussion regarding the WRC-style vents start on page 4.

Hey [MENTION=1391]Siestarider[/MENTION], [MENTION=4182]Wimp Lo[/MENTION], and [MENTION=636]RAAMaudio[/MENTION]: Maybe I can get you guys (or really anyone with some input) to chime in here. Thanks.

My questions:

• Will implementing these without doing any other ducting or adding an undertray do much good (cooling wise)?
• Also, I'm thinking of drilling out the blocked off bits covering the radiator grill (in front of the crash beam). Will doing that be more beneficial or detrimental (in light of all the discussion regarding air exiting out the bottom of the engine bay and getting stuck in the engine bay)?

I'm adding both the Mishimoto radiator and oil cooler here soon, but don't want to get into extensive custom aero/tray/ducting changes (because, for me, that all means mucho labor $$$$ at the shop). I'm not racing this thing. It's just a daily driver that I want to hold up at an HPDE (the whole day, dammit). The various threads regarding heat issues are worrisome. I've done one track day in this thing (last spring) with no issues whatsoever, but it was under perfect conditions (mid 60s and partial sun).

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.

I am actually going to do this towards the end of the year. But I told myself instead of buying a carbon hood first I am going to cut my oem hood and see how it turns out. With that I would be removing the honeycomb hood bracing and using hood pins if I do it correctly. If not well then I get the carbon hood. If I am successful then I saved some money on not buying the carbon hood amd saved some weight too.

 

[meFiSTo]

I am actually going to do this towards the end of the year. But I told myself instead of buying a carbon hood first I am going to cut my oem hood and see how it turns out. With that I would be removing the honeycomb hood bracing and using hood pins if I do it correctly. If not well then I get the carbon hood. If I am successful then I saved some money on not buying the carbon hood amd saved some weight too.

I was just contemplating options for keeping the stock steel hood and modding it for those vents while out for a lunch run. I'm not sure I like the idea of taking the whole frame structure out of the hood. Maybe the vents can be added in a way to just cut away what needs to be taken out to get the vents on there. I'd probably take all the insulation out. Seems like that removing that stuff should help evacuate heat as well. Winter use might be an issue, but this car basically sits in the garage in the winter.

 

[Pete]

The only thing that worries me is the fuse box on the driver side. I am not sure how water proof that is. Other than that everything arpund both sides is sealed up.

 

[RAAMaudio]

The fuse box cover extends over the sides well enough, I expect, to not let any water seep into the fuse area.

If you are in an area with snow and ice and the car will be out in it then these might not be a good idea unless sealed up in the winter.

 

[Wimp Lo]

I am bringing this thread back to life as I'm resurrecting this option in my 2016 (or later) plans.

I have been kicking around getting an OEM-style Seibon CF hood and then mating these "WRC-style" vents to it:

They are available from Sico (with a pricy CF option). I'd almost certainly get the gel-coat version and paint the whole deal stock Ingot Silver.

I've seen some discussion of that in this epic thread. The discussion regarding the WRC-style vents starts on page 4.

Hey [MENTION=1391]Siestarider[/MENTION], [MENTION=4182]Wimp Lo[/MENTION], and [MENTION=636]RAAMaudio[/MENTION]: Maybe I can get you guys (or really anyone with some input) to chime in here. Thanks.

My questions:

• Will implementing these without doing any other ducting or adding an undertray do much good (cooling wise)?
• Also, I'm thinking of drilling out the blocked off bits covering the radiator grill (in front of the crash beam). Will doing that be more beneficial or detrimental (in light of all the discussion regarding air exiting out the bottom of the engine bay and getting stuck in the engine bay)?

I'm adding both the Mishimoto radiator and oil cooler here soon, but don't want to get into extensive custom aero/tray/ducting changes (because, for me, that all means mucho labor $$$$ at the shop). I'm not racing this thing. It's just a daily driver that I want to hold up at an HPDE (the whole day, dammit). The various threads regarding heat issues are worrisome. I've done one track day in this thing (last spring) with no issues whatsoever, but it was under perfect conditions (mid 60s and partial sun).

Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.

These SICO vents look nice but I doubt they work better than just cutting a hole in the hood.

The real WRC vent has a lip on the leading edge which is intended to peel off the boundary layer and create a venturi effect with fast flowing air rather than the stagnant boundary layer.

I have been delayed in my WRC vent efforts but the more accurate style (from Poland) is less expensive and I'm betting more effective.

The WRC vents have the drawback of being more open and easier to damage probably but they are actually an aerodynamic element, not just a piece of trim to go over a hole.

 

[GoMax]

I have been delayed in my WRC vent efforts but the more accurate style (from Poland) is less expensive and I'm betting more effective.

Wimp Lo, do you have a link to the Vents? I looked briefly on the site you posted, but didn't see where to find the WRC Vents.
I"m thinking of ordering a set. Thanks!

-- Max

 

[Wimp Lo]

You need to send them an email.

I tried their US distributor without any luck but the site's main contact was able to give me a quote.

 

[Dustys318]

They work great. I didn't want to buy a larger radiator with added water/weight capacity when extraction is the issue...

I've done testing with (string and magnehelic gauge) and came up with same suggested location for vents..

 

[Pete]

They work great. I didn't want to buy a larger radiator with added water/weight capacity when extraction is the issue...

I've done testing with (string and magnehelic gauge) and came up with same suggested location for vents..

When you can, can you put some pictures of under the hood so we can see the cutouts and then some full pictures of your car to see the whole picture looks sweet!

 

[RAAMaudio]

Damn fine job, they have much larger outlets than other pics showed, should work very well indeed!

I really do hope you get the cooling you need from these, that would be great

Rick

 

[meFiSTo]

When you can, can you put some pictures of under the hood so we can see the cutouts and then some full pictures of your car to see the whole picture looks sweet!

Yes please, same request.

And: Nice job!!!!

 

[Dustys318]

I trimmed the liner back. You can see how big they are looking down into vent (from brake fluid cap to windshield fluid cap).

Once I get my lithium battery installed in the spare tire well I'll move the fuse box and stradified's aux fuel injection control box over in the factory battery location. The red marks on the windshield fluid bottle is where I'm going to cut the neck and move the fill cap down to and epoxy it back together. I might even move the coolant tank to factory battery location too...

 

[jayrod1980]

Nice it looks great! Very OEM. What's the difference in temps?