Drivetrain Break-in 101

[freebird_78]

Probably, but this isn't the first time I've heard this. Mine looked the same as yours. You'd be surprised what particulates you might find in your oil at this stage. That's why it's a good idea to get it out sooner instead of later. If you change your oil often and don't rag the piss out of it, it doesn't matter what they put in the oil. I think I changed my oil at 100 miles, 500 miles, 1,000 miles, 3,000 miles and then every 5,000 after that. 43,000 miles and it runs great and gets awesome fuel economy. I am nowhere near stock either. Absolutely no issues...

Any clue as to what is in the factory fill that makes it look like Dex2? I'm sure it'll get a nice toasty dark brown soon, but I've never seen motor oil that color. Fork oils sure, but never motor oil.

 

[Capri to ST]

Any clue as to what is in the factory fill that makes it look like Dex2? I'm sure it'll get a nice toasty dark brown soon, but I've never seen motor oil that color. Fork oils sure, but never motor oil.

The factory fill has a green die which shows up under UV light and makes it easier to detect leaks-
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/10562-Factory-fill-oil-is-green

This freaks a lot of people out, Ford should probably tell folks in the ST manual. I'm not sure if this is what you're talking about, since Dex is red but thought folks should know since the topic of weird-colored factory fill oil came up.

 

[freebird_78]

The factory fill has a green die which shows up under UV light and makes it easier to detect leaks-
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/10562-Factory-fill-oil-is-green

This freaks a lot of people out, Ford should probably tell folks in the ST manual. I'm not sure if this is what you're talking about, since Dex is red but thought folks should know since the topic of weird-colored factory fill oil came up.

Interesting. They could've just changed the die color. Mine is definitely pink/orange. I'll hit it with a UV light today to see. Makes sense. Thanks.

 

[Capri to ST]

Interesting. They could've just changed the die color. Mine is definitely pink/orange. I'll hit it with a UV light today to see. Makes sense. Thanks.

You're welcome, it made me feel better knowing that when I saw the oil at the car's first oil change.

 

[Rivy]

Interesting. They could've just changed the die color. Mine is definitely pink/orange. I'll hit it with a UV light today to see. Makes sense. Thanks.

Interesting! Let us know if that's what it is after you try the UV light. Thanks!

 

[freebird_78]

Yup, you guys called it. UV dye.

 

[chudzikb]

Quite frankly I thought the OP was nuts! However, I am now a believer. Did the first change at around 120 miles, it was like panning for aluminium. It glistened in the sunlight in my oil pan. I have been doing the hold the revs deal on back roads, not sure how much you are supposed to do? But, I was out for about an hour running through the gears, will do again when I get the time. I just let the car sit, don't want to drive it for short trips! Thanks for taking the time to put together this guide. Not much for new cars, but, have one now.

 

[Scootny]

So...any advice at this point?

I bought mine with 26 miles on it and drove about 160 miles from the dealer to my home. Mostly steady state with a few trips to about 4 grand on the tach in order to deal with traffic fools and such. I have just under 600 miles now. Mostly tame but a few accidental trips to the redline along the way, (grabbed a gear too low a few times) and some indulgent acceleration from time to time that had me at 4500. After reading this I'll be changing the oil. Unfortunately the car makes far too may short trips in service to my family, grocery runs, school rides and the like. No way to cut them out completely. What's the best way to proceed from here? Thanks.

 

[HardBoiledEgg]

To get some sleep and stop thinking so much

 

[Scootny]

To get some sleep and stop thinking so much

Thanks. It's just my first new car and I'm hoping I didn't screw it up to badly in the first 600 miles. The car is so seductive. It just goads you into enjoying its power. It's been a real exercise to keep from losing control and just go flying around everywhere. Best to just pick up from here and drive stoically for the next 1000 miles I guess.

 

[XR650R]

Thanks. It's just my first new car and I'm hoping I didn't screw it up to badly in the first 600 miles. The car is so seductive. It just goads you into enjoying its power. It's been a real exercise to keep from losing control and just go flying around everywhere. Best to just pick up from here and drive stoically for the next 1000 miles I guess.

I'm a firm believer in the frequent changes starting out. Gets the crap out and lets surfaces wear in smoothly.

 

[Quisp]

The goon that took it off the transporter and the lot boy takes care of break in procedure.

 

[md00150028]

So, I'm at about 500 miles and had no idea about the 100 mile oil change. What oil and filter do you recommend putting in the car? (2019 Fiesta ST). I noticed the original post said not synthetic unless it already has synthetic in it, but I'm not sure what is in it from the factory. Thanks!

 

[XR650R]

So, I'm at about 500 miles and had no idea about the 100 mile oil change. What oil and filter do you recommend putting in the car? (2019 Fiesta ST). I noticed the original post said not synthetic unless it already has synthetic in it, but I'm not sure what is in it from the factory. Thanks!

Semi-synth, any filter. Just do it soon. Do it again at 2000, then go full synth at 5000.

Change your tranny fluid at 5000, too. Enjoy cool runnings, mon.
I've got 14,000 on the clock, and I swear it's getting faster.

The change oil light has never come on.

 

[Ford ST]

I've never done the break in thing. My daily driver has a 115K on it. How much oil does it burn zero.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[XR650R]

I've never done the break in thing. My daily driver has a 115K on it. How much oil does it burn zero.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

No, it's not likely to. Modern engines are tight.
It's about mating surfaces at a microscopic level. Turbo bearings, for example.

 

[pixelzombie]

I need to look up 'lugging the motor' later tonight.

 

[pelotonracer2]

I need to look up 'lugging the motor' later tonight.

Lugging the motor means too low rpm.

 

[pelotonracer2]

No, it's not likely to. Modern engines are tight.
It's about mating surfaces at a microscopic level. Turbo bearings, for example.

Rings seat 100% in 5 minutes to 30 minutes usually, and wear in completely by the first 500 miles. There are many factors that effect blow by, ring seat and burning oil. Even the angle of the cross hatch in the cylinder bore can play a role in oil retention, ring seat and longevity.

One of the reasons for early oil changes during break-in is metal shearing, YES EVEN IN TODAYS much improved production tolerance. Metal particulate volume and size in your oil/transmission fluid is much larger in the first 1,000 miles than it is at 20,000 miles. This is true for all mechanical parts where there is metal to metal friction and wear.

You can easily test this "theory" with before and after oil analysis at any given oil change duration or interval. Modern oil filters use 50-60 year old technology. Even though some synthetic oil manufacturers recommend 10,000 mile oil change intervals... I still change mine every 5,000 miles. Ask me why lol

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^Yes, even though many who adhere to the very short initial, and then short OCIs after that, engine OIL and filter changes, very few are as OCD fanatical as I am (and I suspect you are as well) when it comes to the gearbox/transaxle fluid changes as well.
I did the first one at less than 1K miles, the second at 3K miles, and have done them every 8-10k miles after that/

There is A LOT of shear (and therefore metal particles) going on in a shared gearbox and differential/final drive, especially with our rides' tiny ring and pinion setup, with a decent amount of power going through it.