I picked up a high pitch squealing noise under hard acceleration. I did some research and worst case was a leaking exhaust manifold or as simple as a loose clamp on a silicone hose. The leak was from a hose, easy peasy.
I built it starting with a air pressure regulator from Walmart it was $15.00. The prices at the big box home improvement stores were higher in price. The pressure gauge is a pool filter gauge from Lowes, $10.00. I did not want to depend on the gauge on my compressor and 0-60 unit had finer markings. I used a 2" PVC end cap and tapped and threaded a 1/4 inch NPT air fitting into it. I used quick two part epoxy and applied it to the inside of the cap around the exposed portion of the air fitting. You can figure out the rest from the picture below.
I used the transition coupler at the turbo inlet to insert my test cap. Started at 10 psi and found a few lines that had to be disconnected and capped. The large line on the intake pipe located just below the throttle body is one. I used a 3/4" I/D hose and a brass cap to seal the open end attached the hose to the fitting. The small line on the cold air pipe has to be removed and the fitting capped. Use a 3/8" I/D hose and stick a large bolt to close off the unused end.
To do the testing, start off low and work the pressure up slowly. You will not get a complete leak free test. I took off the oil filler cap, because other forums recommended it. Yes I got a little air coming out of there. I saw that people were getting just shy of 30 PSI of boost on their cars, so that was the maximum testing pressure that I would use. The air leak showed up around 25PSI. Nice and loud.
I built it starting with a air pressure regulator from Walmart it was $15.00. The prices at the big box home improvement stores were higher in price. The pressure gauge is a pool filter gauge from Lowes, $10.00. I did not want to depend on the gauge on my compressor and 0-60 unit had finer markings. I used a 2" PVC end cap and tapped and threaded a 1/4 inch NPT air fitting into it. I used quick two part epoxy and applied it to the inside of the cap around the exposed portion of the air fitting. You can figure out the rest from the picture below.
I used the transition coupler at the turbo inlet to insert my test cap. Started at 10 psi and found a few lines that had to be disconnected and capped. The large line on the intake pipe located just below the throttle body is one. I used a 3/4" I/D hose and a brass cap to seal the open end attached the hose to the fitting. The small line on the cold air pipe has to be removed and the fitting capped. Use a 3/8" I/D hose and stick a large bolt to close off the unused end.
To do the testing, start off low and work the pressure up slowly. You will not get a complete leak free test. I took off the oil filler cap, because other forums recommended it. Yes I got a little air coming out of there. I saw that people were getting just shy of 30 PSI of boost on their cars, so that was the maximum testing pressure that I would use. The air leak showed up around 25PSI. Nice and loud.