COOLERWORX Pro Short Shifter Installation Tips & Tricks + Linkage Redesign Discussion

[kivnul]

Bust out the calipers and thread gauges while you are at it

 

[JDG]

Bust out the calipers and tread gauges while you are at it

Will do that ahead of the new parts. They use the same ball stud in 6 places so I’ll remove one to source a USA based part in the mean time. There’s have a nice seal to keep the ball lubricated that is proving hard to find though...

 

[JDG]

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[JDG]

So here's the deal:

The ball studs looks to be M6x1.0 thread with a 10mm ball. Coolerworx machines the top of the ball flat which they did not do on the extra they sent that was not assembled to the replacement linkage they sent. This will be easy enough to file down like the others pictured. I am going to go to my local hardware store this weekend to confirm the M6x1.0 thread though.

It also looks like the linkage could be redrilled/tapped for an 8mm ball stud but nothing larger than that. If the ball stud breaks again I will likely try to go that route. Hope this helps everyone with this shifter.

I was able to find these as potential replacement parts:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VGP8G7M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AZUEGS6F7RLJ5&psc=1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/M6x1-0-Sha...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

[DangerMouse]

Hopefully it was a fluke. Nothing is bent or out of shape? I wonder if it has something to do with the cables being different on usdm cars. Maybe putting more stress on it. I haven't confirmed the cables are in fact different but from reading all of the posts it seems there could be something there.

 

[DangerMouse]

Also, I would be worried going up to an 8mm ball stud. I think a better option would be finding a higher quality replacement part. If there was a little more meat on the arm then definitely.

Edit: Another idea would be going with spherical rod ends and ditching the ball studs. I wonder if that would work.

 

[JDG]

So I got the replacement ball stud installed. The installation process required removing the center console again. Pretty unfortunate and I tried installing without that step for about an hour and I couldn't get my hand through the spaces available. This is unfortunate because it means that if it happens again it will be a huge process to replace. I am pretty bummed about that. Now I have in the back of my head that it can break again at the next stoplight or back road where pulling over won't be possible.

 

[JDG]

Also, I would be worried going up to an 8mm ball stud. I think a better option would be finding a higher quality replacement part. If there was a little more meat on the arm then definitely.

Edit: Another idea would be going with spherical rod ends and ditching the ball studs. I wonder if that would work.

Why would you be worried, there is plenty of meat on the linkage. This is probably the route I am going to go now so your feedback is helpful. Going with spherical rod ends will not give me enough range of movement I don't think. The angle of the linkage from the shifter handle to the ball stud that failed is pretty steep.

 

[Ford ST]

You are dedicated or crazy. That shit would be in the box sent back.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

 

[JDG]

Hopefully it was a fluke. Nothing is bent or out of shape? I wonder if it has something to do with the cables being different on usdm cars. Maybe putting more stress on it. I haven't confirmed the cables are in fact different but from reading all of the posts it seems there could be something there.

I don't think it's the cables. I checked for resistance yesterday and there is none. If you look at how the link is designed where the ball stud failed; the ball stud that failed is on the shortest link in the assembly, and is the one that moves the most. So it sees the greatest forces and sees them over and over. If anything needs to be upgraded it may just be that one hole/ball stud.

 

[JDG]

You are dedicated or crazy. That shit would be in the box sent back.

Sent from my LG-LS997 using Tapatalk

Man it shifts soooooo good when it's working.

 

[DangerMouse]

I don't think it's the cables. I checked for resistance yesterday and there is none. If you look at how the link is designed where the ball stud failed; the ball stud that failed is on the shortest link in the assembly, and is the one that moves the most. So it sees the greatest forces and sees them over and over. If anything needs to be upgraded it may just be that one hole/ball stud.

That wouldn't be bad then just upgrading the one stud. I was looking at mine after I posted and the arms are much beefier than I realized. Keep us posted if you do upgrade the one stud. It might be something coolerworx should look into as well. Hopefully they are listening to your feedback. I don't know what the failure rate is on any of their shifters, I can't find anything where anyone else has had an issue.

 

[JDG]

That wouldn't be bad then just upgrading the one stud. I was looking at mine after I posted and the arms are much beefier than I realized. Keep us posted if you do upgrade the one stud. It might be something coolerworx should look into as well. Hopefully they are listening to your feedback. I don't know what the failure rate is on any of their shifters, I can't find anything where anyone else has had an issue.

I don't think anyone has. But I think I'll be running as-is until it breaks again and then evaluate a path forward. It may be easier to just make my own linkage (the black one they sent me) so that I can beef up the studs more without issue about having enough material left.

 

[Questionable]

Well dang. I just now found this thread again after checking it out when you first got the shifter. I'm definitely going to keep up with it now, though. If this is a recurring problem I'll be disappointed.

 

[alex7]

Well dang. I just now found this thread again after checking it out when you first got the shifter. I'm definitely going to keep up with it now, though. If this is a recurring problem I'll be disappointed.

Exactly, I have mine going in this weekend, now I'm not even sure I want this anymore

 

[JDG]

I’m already working on making an upgraded linkage. If this proves to be a systematic problem I will have a solution for everyone.


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[Coyote]

I applaud the resourcefulness of the people on this forum, but holy crap. Coolerworx. We shouldn't have to re-design your nearly 1k dollar product in order for it to be acceptable.

That being said, eagerly awaiting the results of your fix.

 

[JDG]

I applaud the resourcefulness of the people on this forum, but holy crap. Coolerworx. We shouldn't have to re-design your nearly 1k dollar product in order for it to be acceptable.

That being said, eagerly awaiting the results of your fix.

I don't think this is a NEED. This is a guy who had a single issue and now lost piece of mind that this thing will leave me stranded again and has the resources to eliminate that possibility. If it happens to someone else (now that more and more folks are installing these) then I would say this will become a good preventative move. I am really not really willing to have it happen again to me.

Bearing and ball studs are ordered. Once I can measure the bearings, I will update the drawings for an interference fit and get the linkage made.

 

[kivnul]

https://www.amazon.com/Vepagoo-Automotive-Replacement-Supports-Universal/dp/B07B8ZC3LL

3/8" Not a whole lot bigger.

Edit: reviews make is sound like it is not really 3/8". My google-fu is failing on this one.

Maybe this?
https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/be-ball-stud-10mm-3-8-hi-rise-m10-x-1-25-thread/

 

[JDG]

https://www.amazon.com/Vepagoo-Automotive-Replacement-Supports-Universal/dp/B07B8ZC3LL

3/8" Not a whole lot bigger.

Edit: reviews make is sound like it is not really 3/8". My google-fu is failing on this one.

Maybe this?
https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/be-ball-stud-10mm-3-8-hi-rise-m10-x-1-25-thread/

#2 is BEEFY. I think the "high rise" will throw the geometry off too much though.