Clutch Stuck to the Floor Edition 345

[esp_martin]

Forum,

Just wanted to let the group know that I am now part of the stuck clutch pedal club. As some have said on here, when it first started sticking I thought my floormat was grabbing it. Can't say for sure when it started but started noticing it about a week ago with it getting worse the last few days. Turned the car off after work last night with the clutch pedal not returning all the way but had a long day and didn't feel like inspecting. Came out to my car this morning with the clutch pedal ALL the way to the floor. Couldn't even get the car to start at first. Yikes.

Looked around on the forum, cursed a little when I discovered this is a known issue, pushed the pedal as hard as I could to the floor and was able to start the car and the clutch became unstuck. Going to check the fluid levels and check for any wet spots under the car after work and report back. Funny thing is clutch feel felt better on the drive to work then it's felt in a month. Also live in the Northeast but it's been HOT the past few weeks and that's when this problem started.

Also bought new in December 2019. Only has 20K on the odometer. Bone stock except for shifter base bushings and FSWerks short shifter (don't mind the signature, lol; that's stuff that i have waiting to install when I get the time)

 

[Zormecteon]

WHEN not IF it happens again, you may well be able to pull it up by hand. But you're going to have to replace parts. Better to do it when you can control the when, than letting it dictate the timing. Most likely it's the clutch slave.

 

[esp_martin]

Yep, completely understand @Zormecteon. Just need to figure out when to get it to the Ford shop I trust (it's a solid hour drive from my house; that's where i bought the car too) and gotta figure out how to pave the runway so I get as little resistance as I can to them covering this under warranty. Last thing I need is for them to play games and have the Fiesta in the shop for a month.

 

[esp_martin]

UPDATE: called the Sands Ford at Red Hill I bought it from and they were more than accommodating. Said this is a known issue in the Focus ST too and that if it's the slave cylinder they have that part but if it's the master cylinder that part is on a 2-4week backorder nationally. They're gonna check both cylinders and all the lines when I bring it in next Thursday.

Hopefully the issue is obvious when I bring it in bc I need this fixed and don't wanna play games with it not being covered under warranty if they "don't find anything."

 

[Capri to ST]

Just be aware that the slave cylinder is in the transmission housing, and obviously then requires that the transmission be pulled to get to it. I'm pretty sure that's right, someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[Intuit]

Slave inside the bell-housing is one racing-inspired design that really doesn't belong in a passenger vehicle.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Just be aware that the slave cylinder is in the transmission housing, and obviously then requires that the transmission be pulled to get to it. I'm pretty sure that's right, someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

Yes, it is inside the 'bell housing' and everything has to be dropped in order to get to it.

Which is why I am hoping that my sticking to the floor, albeit only occasionally, is due to the never changed in almost 6 years, old, totally worn out, aerated and moisture laden factory brake fluid, and not even the (easy and cheap to get to) master cylinder.
But, if it has to be one of them, the master cylinder is the one I am wishing it to be.

I will see after having the old shit totally flushed out and replaced with the high quality and boiling points (for a DOT 4 LV fluid), great longevity, and ANTI-hygroscopic qualities (even better than the supposed 2 year lifespan DOT 4 Ate Typ 200, at 3 years) Bosch ESI6-32N fluid.

IF one is paying the labor for someone to do it (as I would have to in my situation, NO CHOICE AT ALL in the matter) you might as well replace all of the clutch components as well, regardless of how few miles are on it, if out of warranty, and possibly even the flywheel as well (IF you can find one!).

 

[Intuit]

OEM fluid spec is the DOT 4 Low Viscosity.

If the slave is cocking and hanging up in the bore or the seal is allowing air to be sucked-in, unfortunately a fluid change, (if it makes any difference at all,) will very likely be temporary at best. It's a mechanical issue and brake fluid isn't exactly renowned for its lubrication properites.

Never flushed the OEM fluid in my prior vehicle and the only service done to the brake and clutch hydraulic systems in nearly 330k lifespan was replacing the clutch master cylinder and front hoses at some point in the last 100k. I think if it's going to fail, fluid maintenance might not prove to be a factor. That vehicle did not have ABS. I suspect the maintenance might benefit ABS... which reminds me, I haven't cycled/activated ABS in quite awhile. But then again the rear probably sees regular use with yaw-control / torque vectoring; front with traction control. (Hill Assist is deactivated.)

 

[M-Sport fan]

^^^Yes, it is, but the Bosch brake fluid is the best of the DOT 4 LVs (highest wet and dry boiling points, best longevity of all of the LV fluids), and a good deal better spec than the Motorcraft fluid.

You probably are correct about the slave cylinder being the culprit here, but I am hoping you are wrong.

 

[Zormecteon]

As long as they're taking it apart anyway, it's always best to replace the clutch at the same time.. It's good that they're going to check the lines as well. As I understand it, sometimes the "leak" is at the gasket where it goes thru the firewall. .. I've never looked at it myself, and I'm not a mechanic, so I may be completely wrong about that but if my memory serves from other threads..
Also, NORRY'S LAW applies. .. "Just Because It's New, Doesn't Mean It's Good". .. When I had mine done the replacement lasted only about 3,000 miles, similar to the experience of a friend of mine. .. My second replacement IS holding up tho. ..

 

[Intuit]

Also, NORRY'S LAW applies. .. "Just Because It's New, Doesn't Mean It's Good"

Should be called, "AutoZone's Law". 😜
Joking of course... sort of.
Reman parts are the worst.

@M-Sport fan - hope I'm wrong too

 

[esp_martin]

So the stuck clutch pedal seems to be ambient heat related. Moves fine in the morning on my way to work but after work when the car's been baking in the parking blacktop in 85+F heat it sticks off and on halfway (3/4s way?) on the return travel.

I'm halfway hoping it gets stuck down again on this week and I just have AAA tow it to the shop as is but I know I won't be so lucky. Either way this shop seems like they'll have no problems taking it in under warranty.

 

[Intuit]

Exactly. The constant heat is a major stress factor and why they shouldn't be inside the engine/transmission. One of the major reasons I prefer manual transmissions is (was) for their reliability. Drive it however aggressively you want and not have to worry or swap fluids etc...

 

[M-Sport fan]

So the stuck clutch pedal seems to be ambient heat related. Moves fine in the morning on my way to work but after work when the car's been baking in the parking blacktop in 85+F heat it sticks off and on halfway (3/4s way?) on the return travel.

Yes, mine also seems to stick only in high heat scenarios, and/or in any stop and go traffic situations.

THIS is why I am hoping the fluid change can/will 'cure' this, or at least delay the necessity of a slave cylinder (or even the much preferred master cylinder) change.

 

[Sam4]

Don't show up at Ford with short shifters or plates - zero warranty.

 

[esp_martin]

Don't show up at Ford with short shifters or plates - zero warranty.

thanks for the heads up. i had thought about that and how that's up for debate as the shifter and the master/slave cylinder for the clutch are unrelated to either cylinder failing (and therefore still warranty protected). BUT if the dealership disagrees and refuses to work on it then it doesn't matter who is right.

 

[esp_martin]

in case future Partiers look this up, i'd like to place this here from another thread: (FYI, I completely get that a Ford dealer is an independent operation that only has a license to sell and service Ford vehicles and are not Ford itself and therefore can do whatever they want with respect to warranty work. However warranty work is good money so in my history most Ford dealerships will be glad to work on your car under warranty and there needs to be a pretty obvious reason why it wasn't an OEM part that was the culprit for the dealership to foot you with the bill instead of sending the bill to Ford corporate. in the case of the slave and master cylinder for the clutch and the lines that run them, checking the shift linkage wouldn't make any sense UNLESS they couldn't find anything wrong and the technicians went searching for another reason. in this specific case it's been well documented and the dealer tech even told me over the phone that this is a well known issue with Fiesta and Focus STs)

After over 4 years on this Forum I see the same silliness about our warranties over and over. The three that irk me the most are below

1. The Dealer voided my Warranty.

Not true, the dealer per Ford cannot alter your warranty. If a dealer tries to claim this tactic it is plain and simple fraud and illegal. Get it in writing and go to your DA and file fraud charges, I promise you will not get it writing but an audio recording from your phone will also work.

Also call Ford and complain, I was in the Services Managers office when he got reamed from Ford for telling me If I have installed the MP215 he would void my warranty, Ford also told me the General manager was instructed to have the Service Manager trained on warranties and they wanted written proof the Service Manager received "training" (ass reaming) on the subject.

From the Ford Warranty Guide 2016 but applies to all years ( my bold)

" The New Vehicle Limited Warranty for your 2016-model vehicle LIMITATIONS AND DISCLAIMERS
All of the warranties in this booklet are subject to the following limitations and disclaimers: The warranties in this booklet are the only express warranties applicable to your vehicle. Ford does not assume or authorize anyone to assume for it any other obligation or liability in connection with your vehicle or these warranties. No person, including Ford employees or dealers, may modify or waive any part of these warranties."

2. Mods will void your warranty.

From a Post in reply to questions to Ford and Ford's answer about calibration (tunes). It applies to ALL mods. My bold

" you have to also remember that just because your vehicle has an aftermarket calibration, that does not automatically void any warranty, extended warranty or not. The failure HAS to be PROVEN to be caused by the calibration".

The reason for this is the Moss-Magnuson Act (The Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act (P.L. 93-637) is a United States federal law (15 U.S.C. § 2301 et seq.). This act also tells you your warranty and the law is between you and Ford not the dealer.

If you mod your engine to hell and back and it blows Ford will not repair it if the mods caused the problem. Anything else on your car is still covered. If your Sync 3 dies they fix it, if your heater core leaks they fix it. About the only reason Ford can deny all warranty issues is racing a car in timed events.

3. Ford Performance/Mountune parts are not covered under your warranty.

Again from Ford post (Ford's answer in bold, question by member)

Who is responsible for fixing an issue caused by warranty approved mountune part (MP215, Intercooler, short shift kit, etc), Ford or Mountune? I believe I answered that above, but the answer is Ford Performance.

Warranty on you car with warranty approved Ford performance parts including Mountune will be paid for from Ford performance $$, any other warranty claims are paid for by Ford manufacturing $$. All transparent to you the owner, just a matter of internal accounting. You may have to register them and have them installed by Ford, Mountune or an ASE certified mechanic for coverage.

Any warranty questions should be directed to Ford, not the Forum. Too many myths and fairy tales.......

 

[Intuit]

........ Ford can deny all warranty issues is racing a car in timed events.

Hope this doesn't include racing the stop lights. 😳

 

[TyphoonFiST]

DO THE CLUTCH MASTER YOURSELF FIRST* save yourself some money* But if its under warranty you will be waiting* ill bet I can find the Clutch master in two shakes of a lambs tail sitting on another dealers shelf*

 

[esp_martin]

DO THE CLUTCH MASTER YOURSELF FIRST* save yourself some money* But if its under warranty you will be waiting* ill bet I can find the Clutch master in two shakes of a lambs tail sitting on another dealers shelf*

the dealership has the master cyl but if it's the slave they said that's on 2-4 week backorder