-
Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features
Welcome to the #1 Fiesta ST Forum and Fiesta ST community dedicated to Fiesta ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Fiesta ST Forum today!
CLOSED: Cyborg TurboCharger * NOT AVAILABLE *
- Thread starter Sourskittle
- Start date
- Status
I would be great to see a 93/WMI tune as well to see how it does compared to E30
Looking forward to seeing the 93/WMI, thank for all your posts on this already and any more to come
NOTE! Please do not install the WMI tank in the rear of the car unless you put it in a well made sealed enclosure, pump included.
Reason, get hit in the rear hard enough to crush the tank, WM all over the inside of the car, not a good thing, toxic and still somewhat flammable, perhaps and air bag could ignite it, just being the toxic stuff as it is being enough reason I did the below.
I decided to be creative and built in three separate enclosures into the tire well then put tops on all three then a hinged lid for the left over cargo area. Doing this from working inside the car took a huge effort, 100 hours possibly but I have a lot of cargo room saved, lower weight for a bit better CG, etc.....If I ever did something like this again I would just cut out the majority of the well, draw up and have a square enclosure with walls inside as needed, flange on the sides, cut a hole and drop it in, even if if cost a few hundred or more it would be worth it (I would do the whole thing myself if my tools were available, most are all locked up ion storage now though)
I did move the washer pump to the WMI tank in the rear so no washer bottle up front.
-----------
Alt method, if not worried about the weight bias which is not a huge amount, use the washer tank up front for the WMI, mount the pump, I could do the install in 3 hours or less including wiring, etc....
Again, looking forward to the results
Rick
NOTE! Please do not install the WMI tank in the rear of the car unless you put it in a well made sealed enclosure, pump included.
Reason, get hit in the rear hard enough to crush the tank, WM all over the inside of the car, not a good thing, toxic and still somewhat flammable, perhaps and air bag could ignite it, just being the toxic stuff as it is being enough reason I did the below.
I decided to be creative and built in three separate enclosures into the tire well then put tops on all three then a hinged lid for the left over cargo area. Doing this from working inside the car took a huge effort, 100 hours possibly but I have a lot of cargo room saved, lower weight for a bit better CG, etc.....If I ever did something like this again I would just cut out the majority of the well, draw up and have a square enclosure with walls inside as needed, flange on the sides, cut a hole and drop it in, even if if cost a few hundred or more it would be worth it (I would do the whole thing myself if my tools were available, most are all locked up ion storage now though)
I did move the washer pump to the WMI tank in the rear so no washer bottle up front.
-----------
Alt method, if not worried about the weight bias which is not a huge amount, use the washer tank up front for the WMI, mount the pump, I could do the install in 3 hours or less including wiring, etc....
Again, looking forward to the results
Rick
Looking forward to seeing the 93/WMI, thank for all your posts on this already and any more to come
NOTE! Please do not install the WMI tank in the rear of the car unless you put it in a well made sealed enclosure, pump included.
Reason, get hit in the rear hard enough to crush the tank, WM all over the inside of the car, not a good thing, toxic and still somewhat flammable, perhaps and air bag could ignite it, just being the toxic stuff as it is being enough reason I did the below.
I decided to be creative and built in three separate enclosures into the tire well then put tops on all three then a hinged lid for the left over cargo area. Doing this from working inside the car took a huge effort, 100 hours possibly but I have a lot of cargo room saved, lower weight for a bit better CG, etc.....If I ever did something like this again I would just cut out the majority of the well, draw up and have a square enclosure with walls inside as needed, flange on the sides, cut a hole and drop it in, even if if cost a few hundred or more it would be worth it (I would do the whole thing myself if my tools were available, most are all locked up ion storage now though)
I did move the washer pump to the WMI tank in the rear so no washer bottle up front.
-----------
Alt method, if not worried about the weight bias which is not a huge amount, use the washer tank up front for the WMI, mount the pump, I could do the install in 3 hours or less including wiring, etc....
Again, looking forward to the results
Rick
NOTE! Please do not install the WMI tank in the rear of the car unless you put it in a well made sealed enclosure, pump included.
Reason, get hit in the rear hard enough to crush the tank, WM all over the inside of the car, not a good thing, toxic and still somewhat flammable, perhaps and air bag could ignite it, just being the toxic stuff as it is being enough reason I did the below.
I decided to be creative and built in three separate enclosures into the tire well then put tops on all three then a hinged lid for the left over cargo area. Doing this from working inside the car took a huge effort, 100 hours possibly but I have a lot of cargo room saved, lower weight for a bit better CG, etc.....If I ever did something like this again I would just cut out the majority of the well, draw up and have a square enclosure with walls inside as needed, flange on the sides, cut a hole and drop it in, even if if cost a few hundred or more it would be worth it (I would do the whole thing myself if my tools were available, most are all locked up ion storage now though)
I did move the washer pump to the WMI tank in the rear so no washer bottle up front.
-----------
Alt method, if not worried about the weight bias which is not a huge amount, use the washer tank up front for the WMI, mount the pump, I could do the install in 3 hours or less including wiring, etc....
Again, looking forward to the results
Rick
Tuning is very much a work in progress. My max boost on this log is 27.94psi. On this log I'm at 21psi by 2900 RPM. 27psi is hit at exactly 4,000 RPM and holds over 27 psi all the way to 7,100 RPM. We're getting throttle closures right now, so dialing boost back a bit and messing with timing in hopes of getting a nice smooth curve.
OP
Thread Starter
#1,773
Thread Starter
#1,773
Cyborg Upgraded Stock Turbocharger System
If you zoom in at 2800-3700rpm you can see the dip in the boost map. As it's still being tuned, it gets a throttle closure in the map.
Didn't want to post that since it's something still being tuned...
Without the throttle closure, torque will go well above 300ft. Lbs.
If you zoom in at 2800-3700rpm you can see the dip in the boost map. As it's still being tuned, it gets a throttle closure in the map.
Didn't want to post that since it's something still being tuned...
Without the throttle closure, torque will go well above 300ft. Lbs.
If you have a raw file like excel etc, just create a Datazap.me account and it does all the work for you. It's so simple and it's becoming the tuning world standard for viewing logs. You can also send me the excel file and I'll use my datazap.me account to post it here.
BoostBumps hit the nail on the head as far as logging and plotting it.
BoostBumps hit the nail on the head as far as logging and plotting it.
Thanks for posting the boost profile guys...
Yeah, without seeing the rest of the data, it does appear as if the load / torque values may be exceeding set limits from 3k~4krpm ....Raising those limit values should prevent throttle closures and raise / smooth the boost curve profile over that range...
20psi @ ~2850rpm looks very promising....
Looking forward to seeing the final tune results...blue lines shown in plot below indicate areas where some tuning tweaks may still need to be made...
Yeah, without seeing the rest of the data, it does appear as if the load / torque values may be exceeding set limits from 3k~4krpm ....Raising those limit values should prevent throttle closures and raise / smooth the boost curve profile over that range...
20psi @ ~2850rpm looks very promising....
Looking forward to seeing the final tune results...blue lines shown in plot below indicate areas where some tuning tweaks may still need to be made...
- Status
Similar threads
-
-
CSS (Cylinder System Support) / Closed Deck work in Australia
- Started by phez
- Replies: 0
-
GB CLOSED - Konig Dekagram - 15x8, Matte Black, +35 offset, ~12lbs, $720 shipped to US 48- Started by CSM
- Replies: 324
-
-
SLD Brand New In Box - Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Enclosed Subwoofer- Started by weazsel
- Replies: 0
-
-
-
FS (Closed) For Sale: Depo Catted Downpipe(Sold), DHM shifter extension (Sold) and Woosh short shift plate(Sold)
- Started by Spork1569
- Replies: 7
-
-
